Is there a downside to adjusting the upper control arm shafts so that the upper ball joint is more towards the rear of the car? I have rollerized upper control arms and the ability to offset the shaft. The last time I had the car aligned the tech was not able to add additional shims to the upper control arm because the bolts were not long enough. To compensate he used the adjustable strut rod to pull the lower control arm forward. I guess this was ok but one positive caster was low, and two the front tire was closer to the front fender. Should I just install longer upper control arm bolts, offset the upper control arm shafts or both.
You didn’t disclose how much caster you are trying to achieve. Or what year car. I have a complete rollerized suspension from ORP in my ‘66. I’m certain my blueprinted UCA’s are centered. Caster is currently at +3. There is plenty of length left on the front UCA stud for adding more caster. You should also be careful making big adjustments with the adjustable strut rods. If they are SorT, Shaun cautions against having more than 5/8” exposed thread from the Heim joint. They are intended for fine tuning, not gross adjustment.
My car is a 66 Mustang. ORP roller upper control arms, SorT strut rods, Pacific Thunder lower control arms. I have not yet done the shelby drop. I am not sure how much caster the shop was able to get, but I would like to get the specs on the ORP site.
Are the LCA heim joint and adjustable joint? With those LCA's I would rotate the upper shaft to the rear until the grease zerk would just fit and then remove all or nearly all of the shims.
Unless of course theres a reason not to.
Opentracker racing rollerized UCA for 65-66 Mustang. I have the upper control arms out of the car and the the UCA nuts and outer washers removed. I am not sure how to remove the shaft so I can add one of the inner bearings to the other side. Anyone have any ideas?