24" Radiator in a '65 - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 05:25 AM
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Here's what i did to my 65

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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 05:48 AM
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Try again
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 05:50 AM
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And with the radiator in.....no more overheating
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PET-289 View Post
And with the radiator in.....no more overheating
What is that radiator from? Looks like someone decided to throw surface area at the problem until it went away. I think I have seen smaller radiators on cement trucks
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Initially I had planned to bolt mine to the apron, perhaps with spacers, however I decided to use the 67+ top mount with rubber insulators and improvise my own lower mounts similar to what another member has done. I was able to pound out the area in the corner behind the battery, this got me about an inch more room (every inch counts here). I'm going to have to drill out the bracket that is attached to tray and improvise something else though. This would be a lot easier if you were just putting the battery in the trunk or running a smaller Odyssey battery or something. I have the Autolite AGM reproduction battery that is like $350 now, if you can even find it.

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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old Today, 12:54 AM
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I actually bought the same radiator, except with the fan shroud and fans provided by the seller. Everything should be here tomorrow and I hope to make the switch this weekend. I too am going with the stock mounts. I also bought a 34oz stainless overflow, and nice coolant filter off of summit. Every I needed was right around $600 total. only thing i have to work out is making a new mount for the condenser and extending the discharge house out a little to the side of the new radiator.
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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old Today, 01:31 AM
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@jdub I agree that the extra 1/8 inch will help cooling. Everything I read says it's about tube to fin ratio. The more tube in contact with the fine the better. That's why a two row aluminum cools better than three row stock radiator. Its 2 inch worth of tubing touching the fins vs 1.75 or so of the 3 core copper/brass radiator. With 1 1/8 tubes means 2.25 inch contact area as well as extra coolant in the system. Also as far as the alternator goes I would suggest not running the hipo pulley it's larger 3.75 inch diameter means less rpms at the alternator. You need to be running 1800-2000 rpm for a 3g to charge right at idle. To figure that out you take crank pulley diameter dived by alternator pulley diameter and multiply by idle rpm. In the case of hi-po pulley that's 6.6 / 3.75 x 750 = 1320 rpms at the alternator. I bought a Mr Gasket double groove #6809 measures 2.5 inches and will produce 2000 rpms at idle. My single groove squeals a lot once the belt wears a little. Hoping the double groove works better.
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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old Today, 08:04 AM
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If you are using a 3G and it's hooked up correctly, you will see 14 volts at idle and no load. This is with stock sized pulleys. The 3G is designed to charge at idle speed That 1800 to 2000 RPM charge sounds like a GM one wire.
A properly set up 130 AMP 3G can produce 81 amps at 900 engine RPM

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The Fauxstang. Dynacorn 67 fastback. Dart SHP 363, Close ratio Magnum 6 speed, 3.70 Eaton Truetrac in a fabricated full floater 9", SorT coil over suspension. Still in pieces.
'14 SHO with most all the bells and whistles. Stock for now.
F-150 SCab daily driver

Last edited by j persons; Today at 08:27 AM.
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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old Today, 09:34 AM
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I was going off of several websites, most recently read those numbers off of the PA performance website. Are you talking engine RPM or the actual RPM of the alternator? Those will be different. I am saying 1800-2000 at alternator. Remember the alternator pulley is smaller than the crankshaft pulley. So every full turn of the crankshaft will produce multiple turns of the alternator pulley so RPMs will be higher.

Last edited by PA_cob; Today at 09:40 AM.
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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old Today, 10:04 AM
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Here's an article from Hot Rold mag. Scroll down towards the bottom, there's a chart showing a 130A 3G output vs RPM
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/inst...r-older-fords/

John

The Fauxstang. Dynacorn 67 fastback. Dart SHP 363, Close ratio Magnum 6 speed, 3.70 Eaton Truetrac in a fabricated full floater 9", SorT coil over suspension. Still in pieces.
'14 SHO with most all the bells and whistles. Stock for now.
F-150 SCab daily driver
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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old Today, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
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I have a 95 Amp 3G

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