Double din stereo install? - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 02:21 AM Thread Starter
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Double din stereo install?

Hello everyone. I'm currently working on Restoring a 1967 coupe from scratch. I want to install a double din stereo in it. To power up the old stereo, its just 2 wires. For new stereo Im going to need power from ignition and constant power to keep the memory. Do i run power straight from battery and add 7amp fuse in wire for the constant power? or is it done other way?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 04:45 AM
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You'll need ignition for the radio power and constant fused power to the yellow memory wire.

My 1st car...
'66 Tahoe Turquoise/ Aqua coupe
•289 / 4100 •C4 Auto •Disc Brakes
•Dual Exhaust •Quick Manual Steering
•Rally Pac •Console •Deluxe Belts
•LOTS of Rotunda accessories

Older son's 1st car...
'66 Emberglo / Parchment deluxe coupe
•289 / 2100 •C4 Auto
•Dealer A/C • Console
•Dual Exhaust • Power Steering

Younger son's 1st car...
'66 Nightmist / Blue & white deluxe coupe
•289 / 2100 •C4 Auto
•Factory A/C •Console
WAITING FOR RESTORATION

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 08:17 AM
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That would be a good way to do it. That way you know you've got clean power since new radios are a lot more sensitive than the original ones.

Or you could use the original wiring and fuse box if you wanted. The old radio had two wires, but the blue/red is just for the light, so really the yellow/black is the only one that matters. You can use that for your switched power if you want since that's what it's designed for.
http://averagejoerestoration.com/res...s/67radio1.jpg

Then you've just got to find a constant power. You could use a tap to add in an extra line off of one of the fuses. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Power-E.../dp/B003L9JD82 should be available at your local parts store.

Or you can dig around and find a wire for an option you don't have and you can probably find a constant wire already under the dash. I think there should be a green/yellow constant wire under there for the trunk light. If you don't have a trunk light then you could use that. There are probably more that you could find with a few minutes and a voltmeter or test light.

So you've got options. Your idea of running new wiring is probably the best idea, but you can make it work without running wires to the engine bay if you want.

The real question is where you're putting in a double DIN radio. That's not going to fit in the stock radio bezel. You definitely need to post some pictures when you get that in.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Magnus View Post

The real question is where you're putting in a double DIN radio. That's not going to fit in the stock radio bezel. You definitely need to post some pictures when you get that in.
I agree with the above. You have tons of options that don't require you to butcher your dash. You should look into one of those. I recently stuck a single din/half depth unit in my glove box. But you can also buy units that will fit your factory opening.

Especially if you ever want to sell your car...don't hack up the dash. The next buyer may just want to price the repair of the dash into what he's willing to pay for the car....and it's a fiddly repair. Step 1 is take the seats and carpet back out. Step 147 is repaint the dash. It's a lot harder to fix than it is to hack it up, I'll tell you that.

Phil
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 02:47 PM
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At least they're working on a '67. We've got it way better than the 65/66 guys. The 67/68 radio's in it's own removable pod under the dash so you can hack it up as much as you like and if you ever want to go back to stock it'll only take you 4 screws and, let's see here, $65.

I still don't think that pod on it's own is big enough to fit a double DIN radio but I do want to see how they end up making it work.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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That would be a good way to do it. That way you know you've got clean power since new radios are a lot more sensitive than the original ones.

Or you could use the original wiring and fuse box if you wanted. The old radio had two wires, but the blue/red is just for the light, so really the yellow/black is the only one that matters. You can use that for your switched power if you want since that's what it's designed for.
http://averagejoerestoration.com/res...s/67radio1.jpg

Then you've just got to find a constant power. You could use a tap to add in an extra line off of one of the fuses. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Power-E.../dp/B003L9JD82 should be available at your local parts store.

Or you can dig around and find a wire for an option you don't have and you can probably find a constant wire already under the dash. I think there should be a green/yellow constant wire under there for the trunk light. If you don't have a trunk light then you could use that. There are probably more that you could find with a few minutes and a voltmeter or test light.

So you've got options. Your idea of running new wiring is probably the best idea, but you can make it work without running wires to the engine bay if you want.

The real question is where you're putting in a double DIN radio. That's not going to fit in the stock radio bezel. You definitely need to post some pictures when you get that in. <img src="http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="smile" class="inlineimg" />
I'm getting a center console that comes with space for double din. since i got no AC in it, it should fit just fine. and for sure i will post some picture once i get it in. as if now im working on restoring rust on chassi and replacing rubber parts all around.
This was great help regarding stereo installation. If I run into something else. i will sure be posting more here. lol
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 04:16 PM
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I'm also using an aftermarket (TMI custom) console which has room for a double din radio. However, I have better ideas for that space... a place to put switches.
What I may consider as an alternative, in the stock location, is a modern single din radio with a motorized faceplate leaving a double din look

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130AV3...X.html?tp=5684

There are aftermarket din bezels available that can be changed out to an original bezel if needed.

DIN-Style Radio Bezel Chrome 1967-1968 Mustang & Cougar | Radio Bezels | Stereos, Speakers & Sound | Ignition & Electrical | Mustang | MustangsUnlimited.com

21 YEARS AND COUNTING
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Originally Vintage Burgandy
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 08:29 PM
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Kind of a spendy Pioneer there. I have my doubts about it working. Our cars have an "overhang" so the head unit would have to be almost halfway out of the dash before the screen could pivot back enough so you could see it. One solution might be a "drop down" type screen. A few years back there were a handful of them around you could choose from but these days they have gotten pretty darn rare. Last I checked anyway.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 02:26 AM
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Originally Posted by GypsyR View Post
Kind of a spendy Pioneer there. I have my doubts about it working. Our cars have an "overhang" so the head unit would have to be almost halfway out of the dash before the screen could pivot back enough so you could see it. One solution might be a "drop down" type screen. A few years back there were a handful of them around you could choose from but these days they have gotten pretty darn rare. Last I checked anyway.
I was just discussing this issue with the restorer today. I need to figure out how far away from the unit the screen sticks out. It will definitely be the limiting factor.

21 YEARS AND COUNTING
67 Convertible 289/C4
Originally Vintage Burgandy
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 06:20 AM
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I'm also using an aftermarket (TMI custom) console which has room for a double din radio. However, I have better ideas for that space... a place to put switches.
What I may consider as an alternative, in the stock location, is a modern single din radio with a motorized faceplate leaving a double din look

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130AV3...X.html?tp=5684

There are aftermarket din bezels available that can be changed out to an original bezel if needed.

DIN-Style Radio Bezel Chrome 1967-1968 Mustang & Cougar | Radio Bezels | Stereos, Speakers & Sound | Ignition & Electrical | Mustang | MustangsUnlimited.com

GypsyR is right about a screen flipping up not being able to clear the bezel. While talking about the bezel, do not waste your money on the bezel you posted a link to. I wasted my money on one several years ago. The problem is that it is plastic and flimsy at that. In addition, the chrome looks like it has a milky film on it. Basically, it is horrible. Last year I bought a reproduction of the stock metal bezel and used a rotary tool to cut the DIN slot in it. This bezel is what you want. A nice metal one that is both strong and good looking.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Rufus68 View Post
GypsyR is right about a screen flipping up not being able to clear the bezel. While talking about the bezel, do not waste your money on the bezel you posted a link to. I wasted my money on one several years ago. The problem is that it is plastic and flimsy at that. In addition, the chrome looks like it has a milky film on it. Basically, it is horrible. Last year I bought a reproduction of the stock metal bezel and used a rotary tool to cut the DIN slot in it. This bezel is what you want. A nice metal one that is both strong and good looking.
Thanks for the advice on the bezel. There are also some other companies that make aftermarket DIN bezels, not sure of what they are made of, but taking a metal one and cutting it is a good alternative.

Looking at the specs on Pioneers website, the "nose" section of the radio extends 1.25 inches beyond the body. I will presume that the extended screen will extend beyond this a little bit.
I only have a factory console to work off of, but I will also presume the top of the bezel on the console is the same.
I dropped a t-square down parallel from the top edge and measured out from the flat part of the bezel and got a measurement of somewhere between 1.75-2 inches. So unless the back of the screen extends out a minimum of 0.5 inches past the front of the nose, yes there will be clearance issues.

I am meeting with an custom audio installer in the next few weeks (who also does custom trunks) and will discuss my options with him and look at other alternatives if it doesn't pan out.

You guys are a buzz kill

21 YEARS AND COUNTING
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 04:21 PM
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I hate it for ya, but I've seen one guy's solution to this in a truck. His head unit was dangling out of the mounting cage (and dash) about two inches. When the screen opened it went up and against the dash pad. I understand, he spent the money on the radio and REALLY wanted to use it but it looked really stoopid. Didn't want you to be that guy. And if you're like me, you hate returning stuff because you bought the wrong thing.
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