Removing Lower Control Arms - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-31-2011, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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Removing Lower Control Arms

I'm removing the 2 Lower Control Arms in my front end. Iv'e read in my Chilton Manual (which I know I probably shouldn't use haha) It stated that there seemed to be this device used to keep the Upper Control Arm up and in place or something like that.

This is gonna be my first time removing Lower Control Arms so if any one here can guide me how to do, tips, or any help would be appretiated.

Thanks!


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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-01-2012, 12:49 AM
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I changed em out last month.

'65 Coupe 351w - Page 12
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-01-2012, 12:28 PM
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if you have the coil springs still in the car you need a coil spring compressor. once you remove the shocks you place the coil spring compressor inside the coil spring and tighten it until the spring is loose then you can remove the spring if you want but it is not necessary if just replacing the lower control arms. then remove the lower control arm. the upper control arm will come down but it is no big deal. then you put it back together in reverse order. but unless you have already removed the coil springs you need that compressor. it is not as bad as trying to change the upper control arm, but with the right tools it is a lot easier and safer.


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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-01-2012, 12:58 PM
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If you are only changing the lower control arm and you would like to keep the upper arm from lowering down you can jack up the car and place a jackstand under the frame rail remove the wheel then jack up the lower control arm and place a chunk of 2x4 under the upper arm then lower the suspension back down and remove the lower control arm. No need to compress the spring to change the lower. You can also just let the upper arm drop down and still change the lower arm. The mustang shop of Arizona has a nice you tube video you can watch.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-02-2012, 02:10 AM Thread Starter
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@Ajzride thanks for the link I definantly plan on using your info when I get to it.

@cmfly I tried searching for the vid but couldn't find it and would really like to see it. If you can direct me in that direction that would be awesome haha


68' Coupe
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E7 Heads
Edelbrock 600 CFM
Edelbrock 289 Performer Intake
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-02-2012, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elizabeth68 View Post
@Ajzride thanks for the link I definantly plan on using your info when I get to it.

@cmfly I tried searching for the vid but couldn't find it and would really like to see it. If you can direct me in that direction that would be awesome haha
You can go to there web site at themustangshopaz.com if you go to there classic mustang products section and go to lower control arms you will find the video. I am not recomending you buy there lower arms for your application but it is a good video.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-02-2012, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elizabeth68 View Post
I'm removing the 2 Lower Control Arms in my front end. Iv'e read in my Chilton Manual (which I know I probably shouldn't use haha) It stated that there seemed to be this device used to keep the Upper Control Arm up and in place or something like that.

This is gonna be my first time removing Lower Control Arms so if any one here can guide me how to do, tips, or any help would be appretiated.

Thanks!
Put the front end in the air and support the car body on jack stands.
Remove the front tires.
Disconnect the front sway bar end links on both sides.
Placing a floor jack under the ball joint of the left lower control arm, raise
the arm slightly. You will note that as you raise the arm, distance increases
between the frame rail and the bottom of the upper control arm.
You will be wedging something between the upper arm and the frame rail to
keep the upper arm elevated. Two rules-
1) Use something that doesn't compress
2) Go the absolute minimum when raising the arm, the higher you go, the
more energy is in the spring.....and the greater the danger.
I like to support the upper arm with a 1/2" drive Craftsman socket extension-
the 6" length is just about perfect. Wedge the extension in a manner in which
IT WILL NOT SLIP OUT.
Lower the floor jack.... your lower arm on that side is now unloaded and ready
to be removed. If you're smacking the spindle to remove the lower arm's ball
joint, remember that the spring has lots of energy and only the shock is keeping
the spring from exiting the car if the upper arm drops down.

As the drill sergeant said, "I taught you everything you know. I didn't teach you everything I know."

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so."
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-02-2012, 05:26 PM
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One thing that may help you in removing your Ball-joint from the spindle is this....


Here.....Non-Damaging Ball Joint Removal Tool - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum

Good luck with your project.

AKA "Couped Up"

'68 J-code, 4-speed

'70 Fastback Project
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the answers u have been great help! Gt289 thanks for the description!


68' Coupe
86' "F" Code 302
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Edelbrock 289 Performer Intake
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 06:34 AM Thread Starter
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Question... Let's say I don't wedge anything underneath the the upper control arm, and if I use a tie rod end seperator to remove the ball joint. Can this work? I have a 6" extension, but my thing is if the car is on jacks and I have an extension wedged between the upper control arm and then I begin to wack at the lower control arm. Not sure if that sounds like a good idea Hahaha


68' Coupe
86' "F" Code 302
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Edelbrock 289 Performer Intake
C4
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 10:51 AM
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I don't whack 'em personally, but as long as the BJ nut is on there at least 4-5
turns, nothing is going ANYWHERE that will endanger you.

In a pinch, you can just let the upper arm hang without support but you're
relying on the shock..... not a policy I like to follow. I personally know someone
who has a bunch of new (fake) front teeth over a similar reliance while working
on a Mustang front end.

The spring is a grenade- it's similar to "don't play with the piranha, don't tease
the pitbull", etc.
Enuff said.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg seperator.JPG (13.3 KB, 27 views)

As the drill sergeant said, "I taught you everything you know. I didn't teach you everything I know."

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so."
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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okay so ive got everything off except for the strut to lower control arm. i removed the nuts but the bolts and the strut bar are on there tight! cant get them off and I dont know why! Ill take a pic.


68' Coupe
86' "F" Code 302
E7 Heads
Edelbrock 600 CFM
Edelbrock 289 Performer Intake
C4
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 05:54 PM
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67 I removed everything for 2012 media blast my friend with cutting welder cut the springs lol not using them anyway going for I6 to v8 now
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-05-2012, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Alright well I managed to remove the strut bar from the lower control arm. I even put the new lower control arm on. Was it a pain Hahaha my issue now is when I move the tire side to side to check for play I get a lot of play on the inner and outer tie rod ends and I suppose the spindle to control arm. Could this be that I got a bad replica control arm? I bought them at cal-mustang for about 50 bucks.


68' Coupe
86' "F" Code 302
E7 Heads
Edelbrock 600 CFM
Edelbrock 289 Performer Intake
C4
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-06-2012, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elizabeth68 View Post
Alright well I managed to remove the strut bar from the lower control arm. I even put the new lower control arm on. Was it a pain Hahaha my issue now is when I move the tire side to side to check for play I get a lot of play on the inner and outer tie rod ends and I suppose the spindle to control arm. Could this be that I got a bad replica control arm? I bought them at cal-mustang for about 50 bucks.
Sounds like different issues to me. If you've installed, and secured your LCAs correctly, their only point of movement can be at their attachment point to your spindle, via the lower ball-joint. Or, If your lower control arm is not tightened enough, it's possible for it to slip at it's point of attachment to the front frame, where the bolt passes through the elongated holes. Many of us install the eccentric lock-out kit to keep this from happening. These kits work by exchanging the eccentric washer, with a square washer that locks your bolt into a fixed position of your choice. I personally use these as I believe they are simply a better design then what Ford used. I'll leave you a link, of one of the types available. If your inner, and outer tie rods have excessive movement in their joints, they are probably worn out too, and need replacement? However, it would probably be better to put the car back on the ground, and have another person work your steering wheel back, and forth, to visually determine if there is excessive play in the tie-rod ends?

http://www.globalwestperformance.com...k-out-kit.html

Good Luck with your project!

AKA "Couped Up"

'68 J-code, 4-speed

'70 Fastback Project

Last edited by J.R. Bert; 01-06-2012 at 11:35 PM.
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