Best locations for coolant temp sensors - Vintage Mustang Forums
 
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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Best locations for coolant temp sensors

Ok guys, last technical issue before we go for a drive.

I have a 5.0 EFI engine with modified heater tubes. Essentially, the heater tube ends just after the coolant temp sensor. After that is a valve to shut off hot water to my CAA AC unit.

So, engine temp may not translate into sensor properly if the valve is shut and there is a dead leg. Where else could I mount this sensor? I could replumb the heater hoses to come out of the water pump and use the old bung for the sensor.

Also, I am using a digital gauge with a separate sensor. Where should I install the sensor? Currently it is toward the bak of the lower intake. I think that this is a bad spot as the gauge tends to read low.

Thoughts?

Jason

1966 Coupe
5.0 Transplant, T-5, Traction Lok rear end, CSRP disc brakes, Unisteer Rack
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:54 PM
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Doesn't the temp gauge go in the usual spot? I.E. the port on the lower right side of this pic?


Untitled by Edgethis, on Flickr

-Brett
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:10 PM
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I left mine in the heater tube, but you could tap/thread the TStat housing.

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Old 02-18-2013, 10:19 PM
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install a bung in the radiator, or one of those probes that go between the fins of the radiator


Jason
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'67 Pro-Touring Fastback that does wheelies and gets 20 mpg.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:41 PM
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tap the thermostat or intake if there are no open ports.

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Old 02-18-2013, 11:22 PM
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You can buy thermostat housings that are pre-drilled for the sensor.

And I believe that the one in the heater tubes is for the computer and the one bottom right of the intake is for the gauge

Last edited by Reverb; 02-18-2013 at 11:31 PM.
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:13 AM
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I have the CAA as well. I have the usual temp gauge for the ecm in the hot water tube. I have the digital guage temp sensor int the front driver side port, and I tapped the water neck for a 190 degree switch for the electric fans.

I was looking for pics but dont have them.

1967 Base coupe w/ Fox Body 5.0 EFI, AOD, 5 spring leafs for the rear, new upper and lower arms & bushings, 1" sway bar, Shelby drop, KYB gas-adjust shocks x4, Borgeson P/S, CAA A/C, AAW wiring harness, RJM EFI harness, 20 gal fuel tank, VHX Digital Dakota gauges, Tin Man sub frame connectors, 2.5" Magnaflow dual exhaust. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/build-forum/646872-my-build.html
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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James - I was looking for that photo on your website. It's still my go to source for info. It looks like there is another sensor between the valve cover and the distributor. This may be the spot for my digital termostat sender.

Thanks for all the replies guys! Trailerdaddy - Can you shoot me some photos? [email protected]

Jason

1966 Coupe
5.0 Transplant, T-5, Traction Lok rear end, CSRP disc brakes, Unisteer Rack
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:46 PM
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This is how I did mine
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:47 PM
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btw what did you use for a restrictor going into the heater core? It won't last too long without one.
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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Once again, I'm an idiot.

1st - I moved my temp gauge sender to the correct location.
2nd - Thermoswitch is in the thermostat housing
3rd - I'm going to leave the ECU temp sender in the heater tube.

I was trying to figure out the wiring and why my fan wouldn't turn on. I thought there was a problem with the switch. Turns out you need to put the relay body into the pigtail receptacle to make it work! Ha! I placed my relay bank under the battery tray and couldn't see that this one wasn't inserted. I'm a dork

Looks like everything is working perfectly now.

Later!

1966 Coupe
5.0 Transplant, T-5, Traction Lok rear end, CSRP disc brakes, Unisteer Rack
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Old 02-20-2013, 07:59 PM
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Glad you got it sorted
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Old 05-02-2018, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesWnew View Post
I left mine in the heater tube, but you could tap/thread the TStat housing.

A little off topic, but where did you get that ac/ps delete pulley? I need one like that
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Old 05-02-2018, 08:31 PM
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Its been a while since I've seen issues with the sensor in the heater tube now a days. But when the those engine models were common place. The temp differences between the heater tube and the water temp in the block could be a 5-20 degree difference. Issues dealing with coolant maintenance was mostly the root cause and would cause a heater core or pipe clog and coolant flow would slow or stop. Which is probably why it was discontinued. The system did have coolant movement across the sensor when the thermostat isn't open and is good idea. In general though I would prefer the CTS to be installed in the block as first choice then the intake/ thermostat housing second, as a point of reliability.

1969 Mach 1 S code...2nd owner
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