Best $200 mod ever (EPS). - Page 83 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1231 of 1297 (permalink) Old 05-15-2018, 08:10 AM
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What is your allignment setup. Are you saying you have +5 Caster?

i always used Dazecars.com performance specs for my 67 which worked great but never done a 65.

This is the spec listed on his site for a performance setup with Shelby drop

These specifications are in order of importance.

1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.

2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.
NOTE: for cars with Adjustable strut rods. Please attain as much caster as possible using the shims (at least 1.5 to 2.0 degrees), and then use the adjustable strut rods to increase the caster and make the sides the same. Also, please note that the caster difference between the driver’s side and passenger’s side needs to have no more .25 degrees difference prior to the adjustment of the strut rods.

3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.

4. 1/16" to 1/8” toe in

Jeff
1967 Mustang 302/3 Speed Build - SOLD
1965 Coupe/Fastback Conversion
1955 F100
2017 Dodge Challenger GT

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post #1232 of 1297 (permalink) Old 05-15-2018, 08:24 AM
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Yes, I am running about 5* positive caster
Also 3/4* neg camber
1/8Ē toe

The caster is what gives your tires the return to center force. The more +caster, the greater the RTC force from the tired back into the steering setup.

Baxter

1965 A Code GT Fastback
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post #1233 of 1297 (permalink) Old 06-06-2018, 11:05 PM
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Has anyone done this mod with 18in wheels?

I'm trying to use a prius unit but I'm unsure if it'll be powerful enough to give the assist needed.
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post #1234 of 1297 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewjs18 View Post
Has anyone done this mod with 18in wheels?

I'm trying to use a prius unit but I'm unsure if it'll be powerful enough to give the assist needed.
Havent drove it down the road or anything but the VUE unit seems fine with my 17" wheels and r&p

Jeff
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1965 Coupe/Fastback Conversion
1955 F100
2017 Dodge Challenger GT

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post #1235 of 1297 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewjs18 View Post
Has anyone done this mod with 18in wheels?

I'm trying to use a prius unit but I'm unsure if it'll be powerful enough to give the assist needed.
In over 1,200 posts in this thread, plus many more other threads, I've never heard of anyone having issues like that. Also, consider that a Vue is heavier than a classic Mustang.

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post #1236 of 1297 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 11:29 AM
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Ok, finally about ready to tackle this project, parts are compiled and uncounted posts have been read.

Early on someone said what I was thinking, this is simple, you cut a whole in the shaft big enough to accommodate the motor, reattach the shaft to the motor, attach a few wires and youíre done. The issue is where do you make that cut? Everything else can work off that cut.

Iím working on a stock 65. I picked up a rebuilt long shaft quick steer Shelby box to replace my worn original. So, in theory, I have a 2nd donor shaft if I screw up the cuts. Iíd rather not need it.

After all the ones that have been done do we have hard numbers for where to cut ?

I considered simply holding the motor up to the shaft under the dash and approximating the location from that. But I assume thereís a more precise way to do it. But that seems like it would work. Pull the outer tube off the shaft. Then hold motor up in location to be mounted and mark the ends of the input/output shafts on the steering column. This would be the location of the 2 cuts that need to be made with some allowances for whatever adapters that are being used.

Am I making this too hard?

Thanks

Shawn

BTW Iím using a kit from epowersteering.com. It came with adapters and everything. I couldnít find a motor in good shape nearby and by the time I cobbled all the parts together it wasnít much more to buy the kit plus it has a lifetime warranty. And I just wanted to try his kit. It uses the VUE motor and his modified controller that he says alleviates the need for fail safe mode. Iíll post a build thread when Iím done.
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post #1237 of 1297 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRANGER View Post
Havent drove it down the road or anything but the VUE unit seems fine with my 17" wheels and r&p

thanks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by BlakeTX View Post
In over 1,200 posts in this thread, plus many more other threads, I've never heard of anyone having issues like that. Also, consider that a Vue is heavier than a classic Mustang.

We've not had great luck with the first 2 prius EPS motor/modules we've tried. I don't know if something else in the set up is botched or what. We have a third column and I pulled a few extra steering modules/connectors just in case. It bench tested good. We'll see how it goes here soon!


to note, I do not have a mustang. I've got a fox body thunderbird.
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post #1238 of 1297 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 04:46 PM
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For what it's worth a Prius weighs 2900 lbs and rides on 185/65-15's

Larry
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post #1239 of 1297 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 06:09 PM
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For what it's worth a Prius weighs 2900 lbs and rides on 185/65-15's
Yeah my tbird is about 3,100 without me in it.
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post #1240 of 1297 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 07:47 PM
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By using the default or fail safe it is minimal assist. They are going to give you the amount of assist for hiway speeds which is not much.

If you can control the assist like the Bruno box and turn it to full assist at hiway speed it is scary and difficult to control. This is why the fail safe is set low level so it is safe at higher speeds.

I like the fact that I have control over the amount of assist. I usually have it set to a low amount, but have the option of turning it up when parking or wheeling in tight quarters.

Larry
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post #1241 of 1297 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 07:55 PM
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I'm not discounting failsafe this device is still fully adjustable as you discuss.
Just wondering best approach to begin the cuts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grabber Blu View Post
By using the default or fail safe it is minimal assist. They are going to give you the amount of assist for hiway speeds which is not much.

If you can control the assist like the Bruno box and turn it to full assist at hiway speed it is scary and difficult to control. This is why the fail safe is set low level so it is safe at higher speeds.

I like the fact that I have control over the amount of assist. I usually have it set to a low amount, but have the option of turning it up when parking or wheeling in tight quarters.
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post #1242 of 1297 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Just wondering best approach to begin the cuts
Not sure of what your asking?

Larry
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post #1243 of 1297 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 08:18 PM
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This is my post a few posts above...


Ok, finally about ready to tackle this project, parts are compiled and uncounted posts have been read.

Early on someone said what I was thinking, this is simple, you cut a whole in the shaft big enough to accommodate the motor, reattach the shaft to the motor, attach a few wires and youíre done. The issue is where do you make that cut? Everything else can work off that cut.

Iím working on a stock 65. I picked up a rebuilt long shaft quick steer Shelby box to replace my worn original. So, in theory, I have a 2nd donor shaft if I screw up the cuts. Iíd rather not need it.

After all the ones that have been done do we have hard numbers for where to cut ?

I considered simply holding the motor up to the shaft under the dash and approximating the location from that. But I assume thereís a more precise way to do it. But that seems like it would work. Pull the outer tube off the shaft. Then hold motor up in location to be mounted and mark the ends of the input/output shafts on the steering column. This would be the location of the 2 cuts that need to be made with some allowances for whatever adapters that are being used.

Am I making this too hard?

Thanks

Shawn

BTW Iím using a kit from epowersteering.com. It came with adapters and everything. I couldnít find a motor in good shape nearby and by the time I cobbled all the parts together it wasnít much more to buy the kit plus it has a lifetime warranty. And I just wanted to try his kit. It uses the VUE motor and his modified controller that he says alleviates the need for fail safe mode. Iíll post a build thread when Iím done.


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Not sure of what your asking?
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post #1244 of 1297 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 08:38 PM
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Didn't the kit come with instructions? The owner at Epower steering is easy and willing to talk, especially if you bought his kit

Larry
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post #1245 of 1297 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 08:48 PM
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He's very willing to talk and I've spoken to him at length but he's not had many mustangs done. He's done lawnmowers and and dune buggies and other classics.

But I personally was hoping to build on the knowledge of those who have done it before me.

So here's my plan. Take measurements from top of column to the bracket. The top of the collar to the top of the shaft (avoid turn signal issues) Pull the outer column. Then mock up where I want the motor and mark the old shaft (leaving a little extra just in case). Mount the motor on the lower shaft, then build the upper shaft based off the measurements I took first. Those measurements will ensure wheel sits in stock location and there is enough clearance for wheel to turn and not impede the turn signal.

The modified way would be get the measurements shaft to shaft of the motor. Then once I've decided where I want the motor to sit relative to the shaft. I simply mark the shaft at that point then cut that much out of that section of the shaft. Then mount it up.

Likely I'm just over thinking it but would be nice if someone could say measure 17" from this point and cut. But I know we're all using different pieces on slightly different cars so that won't work. That's why I was asking for a little direction to have a plan of attack.

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