Well...it won't start - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-07-2005, 08:23 PM
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I can understand the bad ground...but how can you have a starter solenoid AFTER the starter? Positive cable from battery OR switch has to go to solenoid BEFORE starter...unless I'm missing something...and Strokie posted that as well? ::
Danno....how does it sound?? I bet your are getting psyched :winkgrin:

My psycho second side :: :chainsaw:

-Kevin- 69 Mach 1 - 351W - FMX - mostly original. My 69 Pics--Sold 4-25-17
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-07-2005, 08:28 PM
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Thanks for the help Strokie!!
Good call Strokie, I knew one of us would save Danno.

Mark Prokop
69 Mach 1 13.51 in the 1/4, so far...65 fastback major project, hell, it can't even drive out of the garage much less do the 1/4, yet.

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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-07-2005, 09:35 PM
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It started right up after I switch it.
Does this mean it runs? I think after 2 years and how many thousands of dollars spent would this not need a post all to itself?...................Congrats on letting the stang loose?
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-07-2005, 11:48 PM
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I can understand the bad ground...but how can you have a starter solenoid AFTER the starter? Positive cable from battery OR switch has to go to solenoid BEFORE starter...unless I'm missing something...and Strokie posted that as well? ::
Verndog,

These High Torque Mini Starters have built in solenoids, so the original stock solenoid just serves as a switch, which allows you to continue to use your original ignition wiring.

Flow goes something like this; Ignition key activates stock solenoid, current is sent through solenoid to the Mini Starters’activator lead (12 gage wire attached to back large post in my pick), which runs to the mini starter solenoid and activates starter. When the key is released, the starter deactivates but since the “I” & “S” terminals are left alone, everything runs as normal.

Configured this way, it doesn't matter if the starter itself is first in line to the battery or last. What’s important is that it’s connected directly to the positive side of the battery and that a switch activated “Hot” lead is attached to the Mini Starters’ Solenoid.

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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-08-2005, 12:08 AM
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Wow, and here we thought you were just another pretty face. :rolleyes: :winkgrin:
Nice work Strokie! :highfive:

Brian
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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-08-2005, 01:08 AM
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One other way of wiring in the mini starter is leave the stock solonoid wires as per factory and simply make up a short jumper wire to connect from the supply stud / battery cable stud to the "S" terminal on the mini starter solonoid.
Dave
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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-08-2005, 02:34 AM
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These High Torque Mini Starters have built in solenoids, so the original stock solenoid just serves as a switch, which allows you to continue to use your original ignition wiring.
Well...I stand corrected! Good work in helping Danno get the Pony on cryponite running!! This whole double solenoid thing is throwing my brain into "loop mode"...and now that I've come full circle....I'll think on that one again tomarrow. :shocked2:

Wait...now I see. The starter has power to it full time and the stock solenoid sends ignition signal only to new solenoid and kicks the starter in...think I've got it.

Whats the main advantage to the mini starter...I understand they crank faster...do they outlast the OEM's as well?...Prob. doesn't "sound" like a Ford cranking anymore huh?

-Kevin- 69 Mach 1 - 351W - FMX - mostly original. My 69 Pics--Sold 4-25-17
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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-09-2005, 10:41 AM
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Check your ground wire....

Hmmmm.... only the second reply....but hey...don't mind me. :pissed:.... :winkgrin:

Ken
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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-09-2005, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry Ken, I didn't see it until you mentioned it. I was on the phone to Strokie and mentioned that I had power at the shut off switch but not at the end of the wire when it connects to the mini starter. I rechecked the ground and noticed the problem.
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