Well...it won't start - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-07-2005, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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Even though I was told to "disappear" by Strokie "if it didn't start for a few weeks...maybe they'll all forget about it", I have decided to let you all know. I hate to say it but I have no spark. I can't figure it out. I have a new optima battery which is positively charged up, all new battery cables, new powermaster ministarter, new powermaster alternator, all new msd digital 6 ignition, their 8579 distributor, 9.5 wires and blaster 3 coil. I rechecked all the spark plugs. The only thing left is the starter solenoid which worked prior to the rebuild. I'm ready for the beating so bring it on.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-07-2005, 12:34 PM
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If you have no spark why would you suspect the starter solenoid? I don't know the whole story here though.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-07-2005, 12:39 PM
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Are you saying it's not turning over?....or not firing?

Check your frame ground wire....

Ken
01' Jeep wrangler
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-07-2005, 12:46 PM
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Have you pulled a plug (with the wire on) and cranked it?
Are you getting spark to the plugs?

Brian
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-07-2005, 01:11 PM
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Be sure to be holding on the wire and touching the block while having SWMBO turn the key :: or if you are having a bad day you could trade her places :horror:.

Good luck because this is beyond me................... ::
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-07-2005, 01:50 PM
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See if you can get a spark to jump from the coil to the coil wire. If not check coil and wires going to coil. If so see if you can get a spark to jump from coil wire to Distributor cap. If not, bad coil wire, If so, see if you can get a spark to jump from plug wires to plugs If not something’s wrong with distributor, if so and car will not start, timing may be off or distributor could be 180 degrees out. Good luck. Keep us posted.

1970 428 CJ "R" Code Convertible.


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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-07-2005, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
I hate to say it but I have no spark.


Soooo, need some clarification...your engine turns over but there is no spark to the plugs Or, you turn the key to start it up, you do turn the key, right? :joker: You turn the key and nothing happens. :shocked2: :shocked2:

If it's the second choice, didn't you move everything to the trunk? I know the battery was going there, did you move the starter solenoid there also? If that's the case it sounds like you got some wires crossed somewhere. :sick:

Why don't you pull everything back out and fire it up with just the needed things. It kind of sounds like you have yourself a cluster....

Give us some more specifics, maybe one of us will be able to pinpoint something... :winkgrin:

Mark Prokop
69 Mach 1 13.51 in the 1/4, so far...65 fastback major project, hell, it can't even drive out of the garage much less do the 1/4, yet.

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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-07-2005, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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Mark,
There is nothing happening. I checked the battery again...plenty of charge. The battery cable goes to a flaming river shut off disconnect - I contacted them about their shut off switch and will check it once the 3rd child goes for her nap. The battery cable(2 gauge) then continues to the mini starter and then to the starter solenoid. The ministarter also has a 12 gauge cable line from the "ignition" point to the ignition spot on the starter solenoid. The alternator is a 1 wire that has a 4 gauge wire from the starter solenoid to the alternator.

I am not getting any power to anything.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-07-2005, 03:28 PM
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Sounds like you've got the switch going to the wrong place.
I think this is the way you'd want it.

Battery > Switch > Soleniod > Starter

It's my understanding that there are two ways to do this, the other is to have the switch drop the ground. Pretty sure that's the way we have it on my brother's FFR.

Brian
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-07-2005, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
The battery cable(2 gauge) then continues to the mini starter and then to the starter solenoid. The ministarter also has a 12 gauge cable line from the "ignition" point to the ignition spot on the starter solenoid. The alternator is a 1 wire that has a 4 gauge wire from the starter solenoid to the alternator.

I am not getting any power to anything.
Danno,

The way I did mine was to run the 1 gage wire from the battery positive to the big positive post on the solenoid, then another cable from the same big post on the solenoid to the big post on the starter. Then the 12gage wire from the other big post on the other side of the solenoid to the small post on the starter (both wires going to down in my pic are going to the starter).

Wiring at the solenoid looks like this:



Based on your description, your running of the 1 gage cable from the shut-off switch to the starter, and then to the positive post on the solenoid should still work seeing as how the starter is wired hot. Provided the 12 gage wire is run as shown in my picture and the wires from ignition switch are run as usual using the "I" & "S" posts on the solenoid correctly, it should be cranking. Hot lead from alternator goes to the positive post on solenoid/battery (Yellow wire in my pic)

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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-07-2005, 03:55 PM
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OK Danno, I've got to agree with Brian. I'm not understanding why you would bypass the solenoid and go to the starter first.

Quote:
The battery cable(2 gauge) then continues to the mini starter and then to the starter solenoid.
I think this is the root cause of your problem. This has nothing to do with the battery or alternator. It's all in how you're wiring the switch.



Quote:
The alternator is a 1 wire that has a 4 gauge wire from the starter solenoid to the alternator.
IIRC, to the same side as the positive lead from the battery, right?

I still think you should rip everything out, fire up the motor to break it in, then put everything back....you've got too many things going on that you're going to be worried about when you should be concentrating on that motor. :shocked2:

Mark Prokop
69 Mach 1 13.51 in the 1/4, so far...65 fastback major project, hell, it can't even drive out of the garage much less do the 1/4, yet.

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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-07-2005, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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This was the way Art instructed me to do it when I called him about how to wire in a ministarter and 1 wire alternator.
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-07-2005, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Art
Have you contacted him for any type of solution? :shocked2:

I would think he'd be able to figure it out lickety split.....unless....you got a wire going the wrong direction. ::

Mark Prokop
69 Mach 1 13.51 in the 1/4, so far...65 fastback major project, hell, it can't even drive out of the garage much less do the 1/4, yet.

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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-07-2005, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
The battery cable(2 gauge) then continues to the mini starter and then to the starter solenoid.
I would agree with Bri and Mark. switch > solenoid > starter. Has to be this way otherwise the ignition switch is on the wrong side of the starter, and does nothing.

-Kevin- 69 Mach 1 - 351W - FMX - mostly original. My 69 Pics--Sold 4-25-17
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-07-2005, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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Try an bad negative ground...I checked my flaming river shut off switch and it was good but when I went to the ministarter...no power. I checked the negative ground in the trunk and switch locations. It started right up after I switch it.

Verndog, is your psycho second side going to come out now??

Thanks for the help Strokie!!
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