Disc Brake Conversion - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 08:48 PM
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That's rightish. I would agree that for newer cars you are spot on. For some older vehicles pressure is applied simultaneously. You will be fine with the adjustable valve. I went with the combination to make things easy (and like I said, it was laying around)
My decision to use it was based on the donor vehicle having roughly similar front/ back weight distribution with my coupe. I figured I'd give it a shot and it worked put great. You could probably find something at a salvage yard and forgo the adjustable.

To be clear... I'm referring to a 4 wheel disc setup and assuming apples to apples. If you're considering leaving the rear drums then it's all pretty moot, right??


Last edited by Black65; 11-28-2010 at 08:51 PM.
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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 10:07 PM
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Well I, like you, will be running rear disks aswell. I routed all the hydraulic lines, and have all 4 corners installed, also have the master cylinder installed (already bench bled). Just finalizing, and waiting on the brake hoses for the rear disks.

Any one know how to go about measuring brake pressure, and how much pressure to set the proportioning valve?

5f09c- 351c t5 strange 9", and a mess of other stuff. It's a work in progress
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 10:11 PM
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I doubt if you'll find any numbers on that due to the many variables involved. Most guys use the trial method until they find a sweet spot. Others have installed the valve next to the drivers seat fir real time control. I would imagine the latter would be cool for racing but irritating in the real world.

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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 01:14 AM
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found this online, off of an old article, on some website, its pretty useful.

Before testing, be sure to minimize the rear brake pressure by turning the proportioning valve completely counterclockwise. At slow speeds (around 30 mph) perform several tests to ensure that the brakes work properly. Since the front brakes are responsible for the majority of brake performance, the car should still stop safely at slow speeds. Crank the prop valve two turns and perform the 30-mph test again. Keep increasing rear brake pressure until the rears lock up before the front brakes, then return to the highest rear brake pressure setting that did not lock up the rear brakes first.
Once these low-speed tests have been finalized, test the brakes at 50 mph, >> applying brake pressure gradually at first and then more aggressively to determine that the rear brakes do not lock up first. Remember to give the brakes a chance to cool by driving at a steady speed for a mile or so after each test. If the rear brakes begin to lock up, immediately reduce brake pressure to prevent loss of control. Just because the rear brakes donít lock up first at 30 mph doesnít eliminate the chance that they might lock up at 60 mph in an emergency-stop situation. It is critical that the rear brakes do not lock up first under any circumstances since this could lead to a loss of control. Obviously, with enough brake pressure, all four wheels can lock up, but we are looking for the rears to lock up only after the front brakes do.

5f09c- 351c t5 strange 9", and a mess of other stuff. It's a work in progress
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 63a351c View Post
Any one know how to go about measuring brake pressure, and how much pressure to set the proportioning valve?
SSBC makes a prop valve with a pressure gauge SSBC :: A0707E

As far as adjusting the rear brake pressure I did kind of what that article states...but I followed the directions on the prop valve. I first counted the knob rotations from stop to stop (full open to full close) then I centered the valve. Took it on the road and after a couple of low speed test stops I took it to about 50mph and stood on the pedal. The rears locked up faster than I liked so I backed off the prop valve about half a turn and I tried again. Stopped straight and locked all four wheels so I left it alone.

Good luck
Joe

Past Mustangs: 66 Fastback 289/4spd, 2 65 Coupes with 289s, 66 Coupe 289/C4. All gone away!

Currently own:
1965 Mercury Comet Hardtop
289/Autolite 4100/4spd Toploader

1964 Ford Falcon convertible. 289/C4. PS, power disc brakes, power top
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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 06:53 PM
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I just went through this a few months ago.....Bought the CRSP kit and had it installed at the local tire/brake shop........Kit was shipped with wrong front pads and the shop and I had a disagreement on the final price of labor......After they had the car for a week, I paid just over 700 to install the kit.....I could barely change oil on my own so this upgrade was well worth it......Our car came originally with a six cylinder and four lugs, now has five lug discs up front and has a five lug rear axle on it .....

Frank T
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1968 Mustang Coupe-Gulfstream Aqua(sold)
1990 Mustang LX 5.0 7-up model vert
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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-03-2010, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the advice guys. Mission complete. Way less expensive than i feared.

1965 Fastback 2+2, "A-Code" 289
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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-03-2010, 10:04 PM
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Cool,

What kit did you end up settling with?

5f09c- 351c t5 strange 9", and a mess of other stuff. It's a work in progress
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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-03-2010, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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I went with the the factory type Stock 4 Piston K/H Disc brakes. I was able to keep my same Spindles - didn't have to change them or screw with the alignment either.

1965 Fastback 2+2, "A-Code" 289
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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-04-2010, 01:05 AM
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Thats good, cant go wrong with the factory parts.

5f09c- 351c t5 strange 9", and a mess of other stuff. It's a work in progress
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