SVRA Roll Cage - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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SVRA Roll Cage

Hello,

I have a 65 mustang and am beginning the long prep process for some vintage racing. I read through the SVRA rulebook and technical bulletin. It appears as they don't have firm rules, more like loose guidelines. I looked at some pictures of similar cars for sale and found some with 4 point cages and some with full blown Nascar style jungle gyms. Is it possible to get by with just a 4 point?

Thanks
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 10:15 PM
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First, welcome. Second NO. If you truly are planning on actual racing, you will want/need waaaaaaay more than a 4 point. Some guys are running Autopower road race cages. If you have a NASA/SCCA cage fabricator in your area or within a few hours driving and have the bucks, go that route. Otherwise the Autopower cage will work well.

Regards,
Patrick
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 10:19 PM
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Those cage rules are based on the period of many of the vehicles for SCCA 1972. I haven't seen a sanction that specifically defines how a cage should go together, only general rules based on number of bars, material and perhaps connection points. I'd go with a minimum 6 point on that car. Four main anchors in the passenger compartment/cockpit and two rear down kickers. I posted this pic in another thread about bolt in roll bars. This is the minimum I would do for a car that saw wheel to wheel racing even though SVRA has an uber no contact rule. Ultimately it's up to you as to how much protection you want over the minimum set by the rules. IIRC they use the same tech chief for all the events. Give them a shout and let them know what you decide and if that will pass tech. There's an event over at Fontana on the roval this weekend. I may go to the Trans Am fest they are having weekend after at Laguna Seca. I've seen them race before it's good fun.


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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 08:52 AM
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I would follow current SCCA standards, they can be found online in the GCR pdf ( General Competition Rules ).
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'65 A-code coupe, T-10 4-speed, 8" 3.25 limited slip
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for the quick relies. Any thoughts on the auto power cages? I will look for your previous thread also.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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Nvm found the thread (search actually works on this forum). Thanks again
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 10:13 PM
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Something like the Autopower you should be able to install yourself as a bolt in. If you or someone you know can weld the plates can be welded in. You'd be fine bolting in if you want to go that way. It's the least expensive though still what I would consider safe.

DOM has gone up quite a bit. I just bought three sticks of 1.75 x .120 today at $5.65/ft plus tax. That's up from $3.06/ft a year and a half ago. In that way the Autopower cages offer a good value at $500. To have the weld in kit installed by a fab shop it could be $2k-3k depending on how much of the car you have stripped. When I do a cage I drop the fuel tank and lines as well. If you don't have the tools (or the experience) there is no way to do it yourself for any less. Before I started cutting and bending my own tubing I got my first cage from https://rollcagecomponents.com/ . They've got an SCCA approved kit for about $700 plus shipping. For historic racing I think you'd be OK with an Autopower. I'd also do a 3 nozzle fire system and get a HANS or the like if they don't require it though most do now. Along with the suit, helmet and other gear you'll be about as protected as you can. You're more likely to catch on fire than flip your car when solo. It's never "safe". That's the nature of the sport but you can mitigate your risks pretty well.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 06:04 PM
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I just saw these guys out at track at a drag event.

RPM Rollbar

Very clean looking cages and roll bars. They had a couple of demo cars that were also running and a good number of the late model Mopars and others were running the 6 pt cage or roll bar. I saw the gamut of Mopar options, late 60s to now and several late model Mustang GT stocks and mod stock. Several of them were IHRA or NHRA tagged cars. The product is NHRA, NASA and SCCA legal. If your cage doesn't pass tech they'll buy it back. Welded joints but fully user installed and removable without welding. The swing out door bars are a nice touch. Available in DOM or 4130. Very impressive. Fairly expensive. The company isn't 10 years old yet but the guy who owns it is a well known drag car fabricator with about 20 years experience.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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Great info. If I go with a bolt in cage, I would most likely weld it in anyway. My concern with pre fab cages is fitment and legality but it sounds like those two items are covered. I have access to a lift so pulling the fuel system isnt too big of a deal.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 09:55 AM
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Racing is EXPENSIVE. The amount you plan to spend and the amount you do spend are likely going to be at opposite ends of your budget/income. To run in SVRA is the top of Vintage Racing, there will be some professional drivers, some well known non-professional drivers, and a bunch of Ricky Racers that donít mind bending a fender to move you out of the way. There are other vintage groups that have more stringent contact and move over rules. Just food for thought. If you are new to this, start somewhere other than SVRA.

On your cage, if you are trying to save money at this point, you are not thinking about this the right way. A professional cage builder (for example) will run a low door bar that welds to your lower door sill, this will add a ton of strength. The halo bar is the same, they will bend it so it can attach at points to add strength, same for all the down and cross bars. A four point kit is cheap, so is a four cylinder Pinto motor; you donít plan to run a Pinto motor so donít plan to save a grand/likely more (over the cost of a kit) on the most important chassis strengthening item youíll add.

Find a local road race builder and have a professional cage built. First do some reading on Carol Smith books and the like. And look at the better built SVRA cars so you know what you want. If you rush into this youíll make mistakes, likely expand both timeline and budget.

Best of luck, youíll have a ton of fun,
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Darrell George
'66 Fastback
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 10:21 AM
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I came across this in a different thread on VMF and on much the same subject. The author blames this on using a bolt in kit, but even a bolt on kit shouldnít get punched through the floor. Iíd suggest itís more a bad design and placed in too weak a floor area and likely too small a floor mount. To me, the point of this is, design/functionality/craftsmanship is everything and saving money here is not the best idea. Scratch built by a professional is the correct way to go, or donít play.

https://www.motorauthority.com/news/...mustang-wrecks

2cents

Darrell George
'66 Fastback
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