Stock c4 shifter slop fix? - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2016, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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Stock c4 shifter slop fix?

Guys, I have the stock shifter on my c4 and the trans has a 70 valve body. Do it's standard PRND21 setup. As I'm starting to move the car around a little out of my garage, I'm not liking the shifter at all. Park, reverse, and 1 are easy to find but D and 2 are kind of sloppy. There's no secure click into either gear and it's incredibly easy to move between the two. Is this normal on these shifters? Can I cut into the gear selection pawl a bit to make the selection more secure?

Shifter lever itself is not loose. The bushings are good. It's just the selection...


66 coupe | deep impact blue | 17" US Mags Ramblers | DSS 331 | TFS heads/Stage 1 cam | Dynomax Bullet mufflers | 3.80 Trac Lok posi | C4/Shift kit | PA Performance Billet Servo/Finned deep pan | CalTrac bars | 120mm Halo led grill lights | iPad mini Console/hidden pioneer stereo | Enclosed trunk/10" Kicker
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2016, 01:17 PM
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Take the floor bezel/cover bezel off and look at the condition of
the pawl/ramp that the shifter lock engages. Might be worn.....
it's not a close tolerance part by any means though.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2016, 01:48 PM
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If you have a 66 shifter and a 70 valve body, the pawl of the shifter is incorrect. It was designed for the Green dot valve body and the shifter was designed to move in and out of the green dot. You need a 67/68 shifter. It's a direct swap but has the correct pawl to match the later shift pattern.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2016, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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The pawl is worn on the green dot area....
I saw that a 67 shifter runs as much as a B&M . That may be a better choice you think? Bad thing is, I've designed my console around a stock shifter but I could modify it around a different design. What do you guys recommend?

Edit- looking at aftermarket shifters.. they're HUGE! I could modify my console but the shifter base would block the under dash piece I made for my tach... I'll se if I can clean up the shifter pawl I have now or if need be, buy a 67 shifter for $190


66 coupe | deep impact blue | 17" US Mags Ramblers | DSS 331 | TFS heads/Stage 1 cam | Dynomax Bullet mufflers | 3.80 Trac Lok posi | C4/Shift kit | PA Performance Billet Servo/Finned deep pan | CalTrac bars | 120mm Halo led grill lights | iPad mini Console/hidden pioneer stereo | Enclosed trunk/10" Kicker
Finally completed- working on last bugs....

Last edited by 66/93project; 09-25-2016 at 02:34 PM.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2016, 11:59 PM
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Good luck with that. The 65-68 shifter uses a smaller hole in the floor than the 69-73.

Sounds to me like your release cable inside the shift lever is badly adjusted. It should not move from "D" to "2" without pressing the shift handle button.

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-26-2016, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22GT View Post
Good luck with that. The 65-68 shifter uses a smaller hole in the floor than the 69-73.

Sounds to me like your release cable inside the shift lever is badly adjusted. It should not move from "D" to "2" without pressing the shift handle button.
Really?! So this shifter requires a push on the button for each gear? Wow mines real bad then. All I need the button for is to get it out of park, and to move from reverse to park.
Wouldn't the lack of button press mean the plate is worn out? There's no need for the button press since the shifter is not in an indention on the plate
I wish I had more experience with these vintage cars so I knew what to look out for


66 coupe | deep impact blue | 17" US Mags Ramblers | DSS 331 | TFS heads/Stage 1 cam | Dynomax Bullet mufflers | 3.80 Trac Lok posi | C4/Shift kit | PA Performance Billet Servo/Finned deep pan | CalTrac bars | 120mm Halo led grill lights | iPad mini Console/hidden pioneer stereo | Enclosed trunk/10" Kicker
Finally completed- working on last bugs....

Last edited by 66/93project; 09-26-2016 at 12:07 AM.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-26-2016, 08:40 AM
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I just went and checked mine, so assuming my car's still ok(it's a '67), here's how the button should work:
P-R - Button
R-P - Button
R-N-D -No button
D-2 - Button
2-1 - Button
1-2-D-N - No Button

Even going between gears where you don't need to press the button I still feel it click over to the next one. If yours is going between D and 2 without the button the sawtooth ridge in the shifter must be really worn out, or maybe there's a spring missing or something.

Can you post a picture of the shifter with the bezel off or is your console in the way? If you can post a pic of the ridges people might be able to see if their worn.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-26-2016, 12:13 PM
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You need the shifter "box" from a '67 or 68. simple bolt in and it has the proper detents for the '70 shift pattern. The levers are all the same.

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-26-2016, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnus View Post
I just went and checked mine, so assuming my car's still ok(it's a '67), here's how the button should work:
P-R - Button
R-P - Button
R-N-D -No button
D-2 - Button
2-1 - Button
1-2-D-N - No Button

Even going between gears where you don't need to press the button I still feel it click over to the next one. If yours is going between D and 2 without the button the sawtooth ridge in the shifter must be really worn out, or maybe there's a spring missing or something.

Can you post a picture of the shifter with the bezel off or is your console in the way? If you can post a pic of the ridges people might be able to see if their worn.
My console isn't in permanently yet. Not even a carpet.. I'll take a pic of the shifter base tonight. I was watching an autorestomod video and the guy filed in where the shifter sits a bit. Didn't show how much though.
If I can repair the shifter a bit I'll do that, if not a 67 bucket will be in my future. Thanks for the help guys - I'll post that pic after work


66 coupe | deep impact blue | 17" US Mags Ramblers | DSS 331 | TFS heads/Stage 1 cam | Dynomax Bullet mufflers | 3.80 Trac Lok posi | C4/Shift kit | PA Performance Billet Servo/Finned deep pan | CalTrac bars | 120mm Halo led grill lights | iPad mini Console/hidden pioneer stereo | Enclosed trunk/10" Kicker
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-26-2016, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT350HR View Post
You need the shifter "box" from a '67 or 68. simple bolt in and it has the proper detents for the '70 shift pattern. The levers are all the same.
I'll check mine tonight post up pics, see what you guys think. But the shifter from the 67 looks like what I may end up with. Thanks !


66 coupe | deep impact blue | 17" US Mags Ramblers | DSS 331 | TFS heads/Stage 1 cam | Dynomax Bullet mufflers | 3.80 Trac Lok posi | C4/Shift kit | PA Performance Billet Servo/Finned deep pan | CalTrac bars | 120mm Halo led grill lights | iPad mini Console/hidden pioneer stereo | Enclosed trunk/10" Kicker
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-26-2016, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66/93project View Post
Really?! So this shifter requires a push on the button for each gear? Wow mines real bad then. All I need the button for is to get it out of park, and to move from reverse to park.
Wouldn't the lack of button press mean the plate is worn out? There's no need for the button press since the shifter is not in an indention on the plate
I wish I had more experience with these vintage cars so I knew what to look out for
The Park notch is the tallest, but your lock tab is obviously not going down far enough to engage the other notches. The adjusting nut is at the bottom end of the cable.

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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-26-2016, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT350HR View Post
You need the shifter "box" from a '67 or 68. simple bolt in and it has the proper detents for the '70 shift pattern. The levers are all the same.
"Bolt in"? Not hardly. The 69-73 shifter is much larger than the 65-68 shifter. And the levers are not the same, either. The provision for the light changed, and the lock tab on the 69-73 was much thicker.
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-26-2016, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22GT View Post
The Park notch is the tallest, but your lock tab is obviously not going down far enough to engage the other notches. The adjusting nut is at the bottom end of the cable.
It doesn't have notches! Just little dips.. I'll take a pic , please come back to this to take a look at it for me. I'm hoping I can keep the stock shifter and just cut notches into it


66 coupe | deep impact blue | 17" US Mags Ramblers | DSS 331 | TFS heads/Stage 1 cam | Dynomax Bullet mufflers | 3.80 Trac Lok posi | C4/Shift kit | PA Performance Billet Servo/Finned deep pan | CalTrac bars | 120mm Halo led grill lights | iPad mini Console/hidden pioneer stereo | Enclosed trunk/10" Kicker
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-26-2016, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Well here it is. The shifter moves between N D and 2 with almost zero resistance.


66 coupe | deep impact blue | 17" US Mags Ramblers | DSS 331 | TFS heads/Stage 1 cam | Dynomax Bullet mufflers | 3.80 Trac Lok posi | C4/Shift kit | PA Performance Billet Servo/Finned deep pan | CalTrac bars | 120mm Halo led grill lights | iPad mini Console/hidden pioneer stereo | Enclosed trunk/10" Kicker
Finally completed- working on last bugs....
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-26-2016, 08:53 PM
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It's supposed to work that way. If you can weld, you could add ratcheting teeth to the selector. But with very little practice, hitting the gears is easy.

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