Generator to alternator conversion - Page 3 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #31 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-19-2016, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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I believe the Powermaster unit you reference is based on the GM 10si unit. It has an internal regulator. What you'll be doing is removing your existing voltage regulator, all the wires to the regulator EXCEPT the GRN/RED wire and the wires to the existing generator. You'll need a new, heavier gauge wire between the new alternator "BAT" terminal and the battery-side of the starter solenoid and connecting the GRN/RED wire that used to go to the voltage regulator to pin #1 on the Powermaster alternator. That will keep your existing GEN warning light functionality.



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post #32 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-19-2016, 09:37 PM
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Nope. Like this... The WHITE in the picture would be your GRN/RED. The RED in the picture would be your new wire.

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post #33 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-19-2016, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Woodchuck View Post
I believe the Powermaster unit you reference is based on the GM 10si unit. It has an internal regulator. What you'll be doing is removing your existing voltage regulator, all the wires to the regulator EXCEPT the GRN/RED wire and the wires to the existing generator. You'll need a new, heavier gauge wire between the new alternator "BAT" terminal and the battery-side of the starter solenoid and connecting the GRN/RED wire that used to go to the voltage regulator to pin #1 on the Powermaster alternator. That will keep your existing GEN warning light functionality.


Thank you so much woodchuck! I got the brackets off from the generator. waiting patiently for parts to come in!


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post #34 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-20-2016, 06:24 AM
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Actually I didn't realize until I went to talk to him but he said he could of fixed it for $100 taking core out of another one he has. I'm actually going to have him do it when I get some extra cash.
Well, that's certainly less cost than conversion.
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post #35 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-02-2016, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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So the guy at generator shop said I can leave it way it's setup but need to move the a wires from the regulator on firewall to the batt. They're is two wires. Do I need to move both? heres pic of alternator hook up and how the regulator on firewall is currently. Haven't done like I was told yet. Any help most appreciated


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post #36 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-02-2016, 07:53 PM
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The regulator goes "bye-bye". You'll need to splice the 2 wires connected to the "B" or "BAT" terminal on the regulator together or your horns will quit working. Just snip off the terminal ends, strip back, splice, solder and shrink wrap.

Next, remove the wire from the "F" or "FLD" terminal and snip off the terminal end and loop back and shrink wrap so the end is insulated.

Now, remove the 2 wires from the "A" or "ARM" terminal on the regulator, snip the terminal end off the heavy gauge wire, loop it and shrink wrap. The small gauge YEL/BLK wire needs to be extended, with a proper splice, and connected to the #2 terminal on your new alternator.

At the starter solenoid, the heavy gauge YEL/BLK wire gets disconnected, looped and shrink wrapped.

At the alternator, the wire connected to the "F" or "FLD" terminal, typically WHITE, get's snipped, looped and shrink wrapped. The wire connected to "G" or "GND", typically BLACK, gets connected to the new alternator chassis....there's usually a ground post.

Lastly, you'll need to make up a new alternator output cable, I recommend RED multi-strand primary wire in 8AWG with ring terminals on each end, one to attach to the alternator "B" or "BAT" terminal and the other end to the starter solenoid battery-side terminal. IIRC, you'll need a 1/4" ring for the alternator and a 5/16" ring for the solenoid...or maybe it's 3/8". "Old Timers" disease again.

Yank the old regulator.... the space now freed up will make a nice place for a Chrome Chrysler Ignition Box if you ever decide to convert to electronic ignition. LOL.

Bart

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post #37 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-30-2017, 07:50 PM
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Hey quick question for all those who have changed to the power master 82101. My generator slung solder and is a big steel brick. I ordered a power master to replace it. Does anyone have some pics and how to info to switch it out? Especially how you manipulated the wiring coming from the voltage regulator? Thanks for any info that would help. My power master will be here tomorrow and I would love to be back on the road by tomorrow evening. Thanks, Mike.
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post #38 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-30-2017, 07:59 PM
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Hey quick question for all those who have changed to the power master 82101. My generator slung solder and is a big steel brick. I ordered a power master to replace it. Does anyone have some pics and how to info to switch it out? Especially how you manipulated the wiring coming from the voltage regulator? Thanks for any info that would help. My power master will be here tomorrow and I would love to be back on the road by tomorrow evening. Thanks, Mike.
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