Toploader 3 Speed to T5 Conversion - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #16 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 09:38 PM
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I have heard the driveshaft needs to be shortened when going to a T5?
Rarely. I never had to.
With the car on the lift, rear axle hanging free, if you can install the shaft you are good to go. If you are just squeezing into the rear yoke, this will give you a little more than 1/4" clearance on the slip yoke once the U bolts are installed. Since weight on the wheels slides the slip yoke out of the trans, 1/4" when hanging is all you need.

I have clutch chatter now and will need clutch, PP, throwout bearing and resurface the flywheel. And I need to send my pedal assembly in to be fixed and rollerized because it is worn out.
Good plan. You could probably install the Drake kit yourself. Either way, it's amazing how much easier the pedal is with a roller pedal. I like the 289HP 10.5" clutch. Was also used on the BOSS 302, and won't break your wallet.

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post #17 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 2nd 66 View Post
Of course your right Tom,However the toploader weighs more and doesn't have a 5th gear

Better spaced gear ratios too. Overdrive is over rated, lol.
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post #18 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 10:09 PM
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Better spaced gear ratios too. Overdrive is over rated, lol.
I agree, the OD is useless unless the car is used for daily commutes or road trips above 50 mph.
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post #19 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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Starting a parts list and reading everybody's response, and will go back and re-read as I start making my list.
I have some more research to do regarding the clutch and if I can pull my under dash helper spring with a different clutch.

I will be traveling for work for a couple days but will be checking the thread.

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post #20 of 73 (permalink) Old 11-01-2016, 09:39 AM
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I removed my helper spring. I have a 5.0 FMS diaphragm Cobra clutch. While the springs assists pushing the pedal down, it fights you on the way up. Take your pick. Currently I have a very light spring just to take up the free play and keep it from possibly rattling.
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post #21 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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Resurrecting an old thread, project was on hold for a while but now I am ready to place an order with MDL.

I have a list and talked with them today about a few things, one of my questions was that they put this on my order:
# MD-88-421-204-03 Quik Stik Shifter, Ford T-5/T-45, 1" Back

I asked about it and he said the T5 will be forward and slightly right in the stock hole in the tunnel, this shifter centers it front to back and, by bolting the shift lever to the left of the shifter, centers everything up so the boot lays correctly.

Anyone have any opinions on this? I don't want to spend the $255 if I don't have to.

1967 Sports Sprint 289 Coupe
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post #22 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 11:43 AM
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I didn't buy the MDL shifter. The stock T5 shifter fit fine through my floor opening- a little forward but not a real issue. The reason you would want an aftermarket shifter is to get stops so you can shift hard without breaking forks. The MDL shifter, last I checked, does not have stops.
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post #23 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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I didn't buy the MDL shifter. The stock T5 shifter fit fine through my floor opening- a little forward but not a real issue. The reason you would want an aftermarket shifter is to get stops so you can shift hard without breaking forks. The MDL shifter, last I checked, does not have stops.
What shift lever did you go with, the Hurst or original style?

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post #24 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 11:58 AM
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I modified my original shift lever to bolt to the T5 shifter. It's pretty easy if you have a drill and angle grinder, well worth the hassle to save $100 or whatever crazy price shift levers go for.
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post #25 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 01:06 PM
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Without the positive stops or better shift ratio I'd say its not worth it. At least not at first.
Like with other parts of these cars, including cutting the drive shaft, there can be enough slight variations that one car needs it and the next doesn't. Some people need to trim the right edge of the shifter hole, I didn't.
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post #26 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by IndyFive-O View Post
What shift lever did you go with, the Hurst or original style?
Don't confuse the shifter with just the shift handle. I read the best shifter for the money is the Pro5.0 and you can get different handles for it. I still use the shifter and handle that was on the T5 and although it stretches the OE'65 boot in 5th it works fine. If I get too slow in 5th the boot pulls it out of gear for me on occasion
Watch out for the knock off fleabay and amazn shifters that are only ~$50-75. They will shed aluminium that will go into the guts of the trans.

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post #27 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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Don't confuse the shifter with just the shift handle. I read the best shifter for the money is the Pro5.0 and you can get different handles for it. I still use the shifter and handle that was on the T5 and although it stretches the OE'65 boot in 5th it works fine. If I get too slow in 5th the boot pulls it out of gear for me on occasion
Watch out for the knock off fleabay and amazn shifters that are only ~$50-75. They will shed aluminium that will go into the guts of the trans.
Yep, I get the difference between the handle and the shifter, I was curious if the Hurst style fit different than the original style shifter HANDLE.

I was laying under the car yesterday surveying the work to be done. I will have to disconnect my exhaust at the manifolds and then cut the exhaust right after the "H" pipe as it's all welded. I Googled around and saw Walker makes butt compression connectors that I can use to put it back together without having to take it somewhere to have it welded back up. Does anyone have experience with these type of connectors?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...caApBDEALw_wcB
Any other ideas on how to deal with the exhaust?

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post #28 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by IndyFive-O View Post
Yep, I get the difference between the handle and the shifter, I was curious if the Hurst style fit different than the original style shifter HANDLE.

I was laying under the car yesterday surveying the work to be done. I will have to disconnect my exhaust at the manifolds and then cut the exhaust right after the "H" pipe as it's all welded. I Googled around and saw Walker makes butt compression connectors that I can use to put it back together without having to take it somewhere to have it welded back up. Does anyone have experience with these type of connectors?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...caApBDEALw_wcB
Any other ideas on how to deal with the exhaust?
I do. I used them before in a case where the exhaust was 1 piece from the headers to the tailpipe, so I cut the pipe and installed one of these. Very handy.
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post #29 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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I do. I used them before in a case where the exhaust was 1 piece from the headers to the tailpipe, so I cut the pipe and installed one of these. Very handy.

Thanks for the feedback, did you use it as a permanent solution? Would you recommend them?

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post #30 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 04:44 PM
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I didnt mean to seem to talk down to you but if you haven't seen them you might not know how they can leggo together. You can also get some off-set joints for T5s that I guess will do what the MDL one is doing.

I've used couplings that use the u-bolt and saddle. They can be pretty much a permanent solution as many kits you can buy use only couplings. I bought a bunch of pieces from this place https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-ID-to-2-I...sAAOSw4GVYUFLe
There is a Permatex exhaust putty that you can use to help seal them. After it has been run a while it becomes such a hard cement that I couldn't even beat a joint apart.

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