Toploader 3 Speed to T5 Conversion - Page 3 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #31 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 1ofAMillion+ View Post
I didnt mean to seem to talk down to you but if you haven't seen them you might not know how they can leggo together. You can also get some off-set joints for T5s that I guess will do what the MDL one is doing.


I've used couplings that use the u-bolt and saddle. They can be pretty much a permanent solution as many kits you can buy use only couplings. I bought a bunch of pieces from this place https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-ID-to-2-I...sAAOSw4GVYUFLe
There is a Permatex exhaust putty that you can use to help seal them. After it has been run a while it becomes such a hard cement that I couldn't even beat a joint apart.
All good. You are right though, I am not familiar with what my options might be to get around the offset.


Thanks for the tip on the sealer. Not sure I would want to use that, being able to take them apart would be a bonus.

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post #32 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 07:36 PM
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Resurrecting an old thread, project was on hold for a while but now I am ready to place an order with MDL.

I have a list and talked with them today about a few things, one of my questions was that they put this on my order:
# MD-88-421-204-03 Quik Stik Shifter, Ford T-5/T-45, 1" Back

I asked about it and he said the T5 will be forward and slightly right in the stock hole in the tunnel, this shifter centers it front to back and, by bolting the shift lever to the left of the shifter, centers everything up so the boot lays correctly.

Anyone have any opinions on this? I don't want to spend the $255 if I don't have to.
I used the MDL shifter and it is centered in the shifter hole. I did a little trimming on the front of the shifter hole so I could raise the transmission as far as possible in the tunnel. I bought the imitation original shift lever and absolutely HATE it. The edges on the fake reverse lockout are about as sharp as a razor blade and always in the way. I have since removed the fake lockout and have ugly holes showing. I have no problems with the Quik Stik Shifter but have nothing to compare it to, seems to work fine to me.
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65 C Code hardtop from California still wearing it's original paint.
Roller 331, TW 170 heads, T-5z, FiTech EFI, FPA Headers, Arvinode exhaust, SoT Bilstien coilover front suspension, TJ on eBay 8" 3.40 Trac-Loc 3rd member. Mustang Steve 2008 GT bracketed 12.4" front disks
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post #33 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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I used the MDL shifter and it is centered in the shifter hole. I did a little trimming on the front of the shifter hole so I could raise the transmission as far as possible in the tunnel. I bought the imitation original shift lever and absolutely HATE it. The edges on the fake reverse lockout are about as sharp as a razor blade and always in the way. I have since removed the fake lockout and have ugly holes showing. I have no problems with the Quik Stik Shifter but have nothing to compare it to, seems to work fine to me.
Wow, thanks for the heads up about the shift lever, I wanted it to look fairly original but I dont want to deal with the crappy quality. Looks like I will change it to the Hurst lever and boot.

1967 Sports Sprint 289 Coupe
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post #34 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by IndyFive-O View Post
Looks like I will change it to the Hurst lever and boot.
Let us know how you like the Hurst setup. I would have bought the Hurst lever already but don't think it will work my boot or bezel.

65 C Code hardtop from California still wearing it's original paint.
Roller 331, TW 170 heads, T-5z, FiTech EFI, FPA Headers, Arvinode exhaust, SoT Bilstien coilover front suspension, TJ on eBay 8" 3.40 Trac-Loc 3rd member. Mustang Steve 2008 GT bracketed 12.4" front disks
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post #35 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Let us know how you like the Hurst setup. I would have bought the Hurst lever already but don't think it will work my boot or bezel.
I will report back.
The boot and bezel is super cheap, don't let that stop you.

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post #36 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 09:41 PM
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Or you could put a Toploader 4 speed in

Tom

One thing great about getting older. A life in prison sentence is less of a deterrence

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post #37 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 10:24 PM
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Or you could put a Toploader 4 speed in
Yes Tom, we know.

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Don't have to listen to no run of the mill talk jive
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65 C Code hardtop from California still wearing it's original paint.
Roller 331, TW 170 heads, T-5z, FiTech EFI, FPA Headers, Arvinode exhaust, SoT Bilstien coilover front suspension, TJ on eBay 8" 3.40 Trac-Loc 3rd member. Mustang Steve 2008 GT bracketed 12.4" front disks

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post #38 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Nailbender View Post
I used the MDL shifter and it is centered in the shifter hole. I did a little trimming on the front of the shifter hole so I could raise the transmission as far as possible in the tunnel. I bought the imitation original shift lever and absolutely HATE it. The edges on the fake reverse lockout are about as sharp as a razor blade and always in the way. I have since removed the fake lockout and have ugly holes showing. I have no problems with the Quik Stik Shifter but have nothing to compare it to, seems to work fine to me.
FYI....I just spoke to Paul at MDL and told him about my concerns with the 4spd lever lockout. He said he understands and asked if I wanted a 3 speed Hurst lever (It's round and no reverse lockout), which is perfect because I am removing a 3 speed Toploader. He said it will fit with my existing trim ring and boot - Perfect!
MDL Part # MD-320-2041

Order is placed, now I have to get to work getting it taken apart.

1967 Sports Sprint 289 Coupe
2007 GT/CS

Last edited by IndyFive-O; 04-16-2019 at 10:56 AM.
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post #39 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 11:08 AM
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Thanks for the info! Curious to see how it works out for you.

65 C Code hardtop from California still wearing it's original paint.
Roller 331, TW 170 heads, T-5z, FiTech EFI, FPA Headers, Arvinode exhaust, SoT Bilstien coilover front suspension, TJ on eBay 8" 3.40 Trac-Loc 3rd member. Mustang Steve 2008 GT bracketed 12.4" front disks
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post #40 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 12:08 PM
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Thanks for the feedback, did you use it as a permanent solution? Would you recommend them?
I did and never had and issue with it. I think the key is to make sure the exhaust pipes fore and aft of the connection are mounted securely.

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post #41 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by IndyFive-O View Post
Thanks for the feedback, did you use it as a permanent solution? Would you recommend them?
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Originally Posted by katwalk View Post
I did and never had and issue with it. I think the key is to make sure the exhaust pipes fore and aft of the connection are mounted securely.

I have used the band clamps with great success as a permanent solution.
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post #42 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Got everything apart and just working on cleaning stuff up and some small parts painting while I have it apart.
I had to loosen my drivers side exhaust manifold for clearance to get the H pipe down, so that was a tense few moments, hoping the manifold bolts came loose without drama which they did. So I thought I may as well see if the other side will come off just as easy and I can have them blasted and coated - so one thing leads to another.

And so it goes, I have to replace the rear seal now, it appears thats where my oil leak is. the back of the flywheel is mostly dry, so that makes me think it wasn't the flywheel bolts leaking.

Here is a pic of my old pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel.





My flywheel appears to be trashed, really pitted. This explains my bad chatter - along with the oil leak.

1967 Sports Sprint 289 Coupe
2007 GT/CS

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post #43 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 10:09 AM
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Let us know how you like the Hurst setup. I would have bought the Hurst lever already but don't think it will work my boot or bezel.
I have the Hurst lever, boot and bezel in mine and I really like it. Admittedly I have nothing else to compare it to, but it shifts well and feels strong and certain. Plus I love th classic hotrod look of the white ball.

1966 GT 2+2 - 347, Edelbrock carb, Tremec TKO 600 5 speed, 9 rear and a bunch of other cool stuff.

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post #44 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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I also ordered a 3:55 True Trac set up yesterday from TJ, cant wait to get it all together !

1967 Sports Sprint 289 Coupe
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post #45 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 11:02 AM
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When I did my MDL T5, I went with the MDL 1" back shifter. I also used the Ron Morris motor mounts and pushed it back a slight amount, avoiding cutting up my new floor.



The issue I had was with the bolt diameters. The stock style stick with the sharp lockouts had to be drilled to fit the larger bolts. Without a vise, I went to a local machine shop who did it for free.



This setup only lasted until I first drove it. The arm leans left, and with my new seat pads and my size, it hits my knee in second when I try to brake. I still need to shorten the brake push rod, but still not a good situation. Also, this arm attaches from the right side, which is ideal, but the advantage is lost with the left arm bend.



The other issue I had was the original style knob was too small. At my size, it was lost in the palm of my hand. Comparing it to my 3 speed ball, it is smaller. So I went with a larger from MDL, and went white this time. I also ordered the Lokar shifter which has similar geometry and is round to stick with my current boot, but it has no left bend. I also had smaller holes and needed drilling. It mounted from the left so I lost a half inch there. To make it all work with the recessed bolts, my machinist also trimmed the heads of the bolts to let them fit where the barrel head bolts were designed to go. Lots of work to deal with the MDL shifter using a different mounting bolt. In the end, I am much happier with this setup.



Once I shorten my brake pushrod to closer to stock, I think everything will be perfect.
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