Originally I was going to use a old 5.0 T5 flywheel I had. It needed to be cut. The clutch kit I had was a old Ford Motor Sport King Cobra clutch kit that was given to me. The last time I had a flywheel cut by the time it was resurfaced and a new ring gear put on I had quite a bit invested in a old, used flywheel. I don't think too many people ever thing a flywheel has a useful life span, they do. I believe Ford recommends no more then .060" be cut off a flywheel. The reason or a reason is, as you cut the flywheel, the pressure plate moves farther away from the clutch fork and the possibility that the travel of the clutch fork may not be enough to completely disengage the clutch. Plus the other is safety. The T5 flywheel was looking pretty narly with a lot of heat checking. I wasn't feeling the love. So it was time to buy a new wheel. I settled of a PRW SFI rated billet flywheel. For the cost of a decent set of work boots over a generic cast iron replacement I thought my feet were worth the extra cost. Why did I pick the PRW? Well the price to my door wasn't too bad. IIRC about $230. like I said it's a billet SFI rated. The ID number is etched on it. It has a sticker with the ID# and info for tech inspection. The main features I really liked was the fact that it uses a bolt on weight. It means I'm not married to a specific balance weight. I can use this wheel on a 0, 28 or 50 oz weight motor. it's drilled for every possible pressure plate you could use. Vintage 10" or 10.5" and late model 5.0 with dowels. PRW advertises that almost all contestants in the "Engine Masters" series uses PRW flywheels. I thought this was a BS claim. So I contacted Steve Dulchic who is the editor of Engine Masters magazine who hangs out on another forum I belong to. He confirmed that fact. He told me almost everyone uses a PRW flywheel and has never heard of a problem. He continued to say while he hasn't used one, he wouldn't hesitate to use one. Good enough for him, good enough for me! A couple last comments. I used a stock 66 through out bearing with the 5.0 clutch kit, no problems. On the ARP bolts for the flywheel, ARP wants you to use the blue Loctite.
I finished up the install with ARP hardware and a new block plate from NPD. A word of advise, the last 2 block plates after I had the engine in the car I discovered interference with the starter. Both times I had to take a 90* grinder with a carbide bit to open up the plate. Check before you tighten the flywheel for the final time.
I used a 5.0 roller pilot bearing. I seated it with a socket until I heard a dull thud.
For the balancer I used a new professional Products # 80007. Again with the theme I wasn't locked into a specfic engine balance. It uses a bolt on weight. It has 3 sets of timing marks and it is drill for both the early 3 bolt pulley and 70 & later 4 bolt. It's pretty much fool proof. If it doesn't work, you don't have a SBF. Let's face it why take a chance on a old balancer? The price wasn't anymore then a generic replacement. Sorry I don't have a photo but here's a ebay link
Professional Products 80007 6.4" SB Ford Harmonic Balancer Damper 50 oz SBF 302 | eBay
I had limited time to install the motor. I was trying to have as much done before as possible. I had a rebuilt alternator and new alternator harness, all brackets cleaned and painted and so on. I knew with the P heads the exhaust may be a little issue. I did not have time to install headers and do exhaust work. So my plan was to run stock exhaust manifolds until the winter when the car would be laid up for the winter. K code manifolds will work just fine. Early 70's 302 Mustang manifold will work no problems with the plug angle. The only issue with them is they will not work with power steering cars as the outlet dumps right were the PS ram is.
In stock form the stock A&C code manifold won't work or not too well. With a little time with a die grinder it will work great. Here is a stock manifold by the problem cylinder, #8. The flange is pretty much covering the plug. Maybe if you intalled the plug first and used a very compact 90* boot.
But doing some grinding, it will work quite well!
The only problem with these manifolds, they will NOT work if you retain the factory Z bar. The problem is with the engine pivot bracket sold for roller cam swap motors. The stock manifolds are very tight to the block and the inner stud on the manifold occupies the same space as the bracket. If you use a T5 with a cable or a C4 there shouldn't be any issues.
So discovering this problem I had no other options but to push the car into the garage by myself and start a lengthy header project since I'm only home on weekends. I'm running MAC longtubes. a little tight but not bad fitting. To save you about the dozen times I had the driver's side in and out. The #5 tube slips in after the main part is in. Basically I installed the main part of the header. You will have to hold the header up either with a helper or some string. Install and tighten cylinder #'s 6,7&8. Once the header is in, you will not be able to get the plugs either in or or out! Use platinum and electronic ignition and you shouldn't have to worry too much about plugs for a long time. I did have some fitment issues with the equalizer bar, I had to take a socket and dimple the tube. I also had to slightly flatten the side of one tube by the frame rail. I also had issues with the bracket for the engine side equalizer stud used in roller cam swaps. I had to whittle it down quite a bit!
The headers, the clutch linkage fits just fine
Tube needs to be flattened slightly
Clearance for the equalizer shaft.
I used MSD Street Fire universal wires specifically because they have a nice, compact 90* boot. They were about $40. You will need the boot protectors. I used DSE, sorry I don't have a part number but they were about $70. You're going to need them. Now spending $70 to protect $40 wires may seem crazy but if you don't you'll keep buying $40+ wire sets. So far no issues at all with burnt wires.
Last comments for now. the passenger side was pretty straight forward. There's no issues with the plug angle. Strangely I did not need to unbolt and lift the drivers side to get the header in place. I did on the passenger side. if you're real fussy about scratching the headers, unbolt and lift the driver's side. Since the MAC headers have individual tube flanges, test fit them on a head before you install. I had t tweak a couple on the driver's side. probably due to pounding the tubes with a hammer. I had absolutely no issues with starter clearance either. All in all the MACs fit pretty nice. They don't hang down low, they clear the trans cross member great and they will fit power steering cars with out a drop bracket for the ram.