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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-27-2016, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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2100 carb question

Working on my first restore, 1968 289 c 2 brl. I've got the timing set to 8 btdc, new plugs, new wires, new cap. New 2100 carb, the motor starts, won't run, spits and sprays fuel out of the carb as it's sputtering...

Here is the funny thing, the drivers side exhaust manifold is warm, all of them are warm, the passenger side, cold... I have spark, tested with a light, plugs are oily/ smell like gas...

Any ideas?

Steve

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-27-2016, 01:42 PM
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First thing I'd check would be to make sure you have the firing order correct..i.e. the right spark plugs to the right spots on the cap. You can still have spark to a plug but if its not firing at the right time it's not going to work.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-27-2016, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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First thing I'd check would be to make sure you have the firing order correct..i.e. the right spark plugs to the right spots on the cap. You can still have spark to a plug but if its not firing at the right time it's not going to work.
Thanks, the motor was worked on by the Po, I have checked and rechecked the firing order, i am tempted to set it up as a 351 firing order and see what happens... Will I stress the motor if i set up the firing order as a 351?

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-27-2016, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, the motor was worked on by the Po, I have checked and rechecked the firing order, i am tempted to set it up as a 351 firing order and see what happens... Will I stress the motor if i set up the firing order as a 351?

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Turns out the front 3 cylinders aren't getting fuel. These plugs, the 3 whites are from the front 3 cyls, the remaining 5 all look like the black ones....

Could the be a clog in the intake manifold? I pulled the manifold and powerwashed it through but never checked if the was passage through the intake...

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-27-2016, 05:45 PM
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Not to set any alarms off but it could also be wiped cam lobes. With the valve covers off, suggest checking to make sure the intake valves are opening on those cylinders.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-27-2016, 05:53 PM
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Pull all the plugs. Pull the coil wire at the distributor and ground it. Block the throttle wide open. Run a dry then wet compression test and post the results.

Bart

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-28-2016, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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Well, the compression check sure put me in a sour mood....

All plugs pulled, throttle opened wide choke opened wide.

pass side (trouble side)

80 dry (90 wet) / 0 / 0/ 165

drivers side

100 (100 wet) / 0 / 0 / 130

ugh man... my minimal understanding of this tell me that this is a valve problem and a head gasket... I'm assuming no compression = no ignition... Although I wonder why I get a warm exhaust header on the drivers side...

Am I looking at new heads and gaskets?

-Steve
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-28-2016, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveperryman View Post
Well, the compression check sure put me in a sour mood....

All plugs pulled, throttle opened wide choke opened wide.

pass side (trouble side)

80 dry (90 wet) / 0 / 0/ 165

drivers side

100 (100 wet) / 0 / 0 / 130

ugh man... my minimal understanding of this tell me that this is a valve problem and a head gasket... I'm assuming no compression = no ignition... Although I wonder why I get a warm exhaust header on the drivers side...

Am I looking at new heads and gaskets?

-Steve
Really hard to say... but I'd start from the top and work your way down. Who knows..maybe the rockers were never set correctly allowing no compression on some cylinders...or lifters that aren't working the way they should.

If you haven't already, at least take the valve covers off and check the rocker arms, valves, pushrods and the like look like they should before tearing into taking the heads off.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-28-2016, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply, I did remove the covers and the rockers and valves look great.... Arms look good, Must be the head / valves... I hope not rings., I can get a couple heads for $50 and gaskets are cheap, so I'l likely change them out and recheck compression.

-Steve
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-28-2016, 07:37 PM
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Time to go back and set valve lash the RIGHT way....

Engine Valve Adjustment Procedure - The Right Way

Just substitute the Ford firing order for the GM shown. The 221-260-289-302 firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
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