My struggles with FiTech EFI continues! - Page 3 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #31 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 09:41 PM
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I've posted my suggestions on aftermarket EFI's and my suggestions are to use relays whenever possible and good power sources and good grounds.

I have my FiTech hooked to a relay for the ignition 12v wire to insure I have full voltage at crank. I also have my power and ground hooked directly to the battery.

69 Mach 1 428 CJ stock rebuild with Mild roller cam, and Long tube headers, 408hp
Modern Upgrades-TKO600, FiTech, A/C, Rostra Cruise Control

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post #32 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 10:53 PM
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Hey Qbui

What other electronics do you have in your car? ie, ignition system, aftermarket gauges etc.

Are any of the harness wires near spark plug wires?

Gary


1967 CV 289 A Code
1973 450SL
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post #33 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUSTANG65FBK View Post
I've heard of some people having issues with the FiTech EFI units and even more people having issues with their tech support/customer service or lack thereof after purchasing. For those reasons and having had pretty good luck with Holley products, I think I'm going to save up a few more months and then go with the Holley Sniper EFI, if it can be used with a dual plane intake manifold.
Holley has an active support forum for the Sniper. Terminator/Stealth & Sniper EFI Tuning & Tech There are a few early issues, but most get worked out. The majority of issues involve user errors. Sniper comes with a high quality wire harness that includes a built in fuel pump relay. Holley support says that Sniper can be used with a dual plane manifold and that the air dynamics are the same as a with a carburetor. But TBI also seems to work well with single plane manifolds and big cams with low vacuum, better than carbs at lower RPM. Most TBIs seem to be installed on dual planes and factory dual planes.
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post #34 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 02:12 AM Thread Starter
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Peter, thanks for the tips and suggestions. I may have to look into thicker wires but my thoughts are, I can use thicker wires but then when I connects to the FiTech wires, they're so thin so it would defeat the purpose. Anyways, I might take you up on your offer if I can't figure this out on my own.

Cj428mach, I tried wiring relays before for the FiTech with no success. Might try again.

Gary, I have a tach, temp gauge, AFR, stereo, alarm. Everything else is stock or on the FiTech.

Thanks!

1969 Mustang Convertible
302, C4, P/S, P/B, A/C, FiTech EFI
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post #35 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 06:08 AM
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ignition switch

I had some initial issues with no start, shutting down, shutting down after releasing key on start up, handheld not reading etc. What I finally did was by pass my stock key start use the ign switch for power on then a separate toggle switch directly to the starter solenoid. I do not use my ignition switch for anything other than to turn car on. Ran a separate power and ground for my handheld. No idea why but all my issues disappeared.

66 resto mod coupe full roll cage fuel cell 289 c4 body mods
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post #36 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qbui View Post
Peter, thanks for the tips and suggestions. I may have to look into thicker wires but my thoughts are, I can use thicker wires but then when I connects to the FiTech wires, they're so thin so it would defeat the purpose. Anyways, I might take you up on your offer if I can't figure this out on my own.

Cj428mach, I tried wiring relays before for the FiTech with no success. Might try again.

Gary, I have a tach, temp gauge, AFR, stereo, alarm. Everything else is stock or on the FiTech.

Thanks!
Aftermarket Gauges?

What brand are they?

Thanks

Gary


1967 CV 289 A Code
1973 450SL
http://www.vintageleds.com/
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post #37 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 05:04 PM
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Quang, the thicker wires are for the Battery +, and - to the engine block, and the starter wire. For the battery cables 2 gauge would be good, a littler larger to the starter.


I would also look at the ground from the engine block to the firewall and also neg. of the battery to the block to make sure you are making a good ground.


Since you mentioned you have an alarm it could be that it is draining the battery enough to mess with the FiTech computer. Just a thought and something to consider.
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US NAVY VET - 65 Custom Fastback GT-A-code. FiTech EFI w/Tanks Inc. w/Aero 340 LPH pump, TCP Power R&P; Full front coil over conversion w/1" Shelby drop; TMI Sport R custom interior; T5z TKO, Speed Hut custom speedo; Autometer Phantom gauges; SSBC Force 10 -13" disc brakes w/10.5" rear disc brakes; 24" Griffin Radiator w/twin 11" 2800 CFM fans; Classic Auto Air AC; Truck-Lite 7" LED headlights; Mustang Project Shelby LED sequential taillights. 2001 Bullitt rims w/Nitto NT555 235x45x17 tires.

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post #38 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 06:11 PM
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Have you done a data log? Curious about what voltage would read. I am guessing that it reads from the lead connected to the battery and not the white wire. Anyone know?

Chris W
68 fastback C code: FiTech efi, TanksInc, Mac Headers, Borgeson box, Street or Track coil-overs, PTP crossmember, export brace, monte-carlo bar, 235/45/17. More to come
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post #39 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Peter, will probably look into thicker battery cables later. It could be my alarm that is draining the battery along with the FiTech and the stereo.

I'll check grounds again. Cleaned block to firewall about a year ago. Little longer from battery to block. Pretty sure the battery to TB is good since I added a phenolic spacer couple months ago and cleaned it then.

Dads68stang, have not done any data log and can't answer your wire question.

Thanks!

1969 Mustang Convertible
302, C4, P/S, P/B, A/C, FiTech EFI
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post #40 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 06:44 PM
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I don't know about FiTech, but Holley support is very adamant that the big red and black wires go directly onto the battery cables at the battery. And the run wire should be wired directly to a terminal on the ignition switch.
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post #41 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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FiTech doesn't have a black ground wire. It uses the TB to ground. That's why many people run a separate ground wire from the TB to the battery.

1969 Mustang Convertible
302, C4, P/S, P/B, A/C, FiTech EFI
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post #42 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 03:12 AM Thread Starter
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So I re-ran the ground wire to the TB with a thicker wire straight from the battery again. Re-crimped the hot wire to the battery. Still no power. Then I used a light tester and start from the battery to the connector. All was good. Then I went to the fuse after the connector and no power. I back tracked back to the connector every few inches and this was the culprit.


That bump was where the power stopped. So I removed the insulator and didn't find any breakage which is really weird. Used the test light again and power all through that area and now I have power at the fuse where I didn't before. Shrink wrapped and taped everything back up and tested again and still had power. Checked handheld and that was fine too now. Started up the car and let it run for a bit but that was as far as I got. It's weird that the bump stopped the electricity from flowing and nothing was unusual when I cut the insulator off.

1969 Mustang Convertible
302, C4, P/S, P/B, A/C, FiTech EFI

Last edited by qbui; 01-14-2017 at 03:15 AM.
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post #43 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 08:38 AM
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Is that yellow wire coming directly from the fitech unit?
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post #44 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riley View Post
Is that yellow wire coming directly from the fitech unit?
Kinda. It's between the connector and the FiTech but it's separated by a fuse. The red wire that goes to the battery turns into the yellow wire after the connector.

1969 Mustang Convertible
302, C4, P/S, P/B, A/C, FiTech EFI
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post #45 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 01:37 PM
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So have you driven it yet? Is all well now?


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1966 Mustang Coupe, 289, FiTech EFI
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