My struggles with FiTech EFI continues! - Page 4 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #46 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Started up the Mustang and let it warm up while I walked my dog out to do his thing. Then we went to the park to let him run around. Got back to the Mustang and no power to the handheld again. Popped the hood and un-clipped and clipped the connector and power came back. I think next is to replace the connector.

1969 Mustang Convertible
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post #47 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 03:15 PM
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Sounds like you have the problem area narrowed down. Hopefully a new connector fixes it once and for all.

Does FiTech uses different connectors? I know certain models use more of the ports in the connector, I guess I don't understand how so people seem to have alot more issues and some have none.

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post #48 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 03:25 PM
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Will it not run with the handheld unplugged?


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post #49 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boom View Post
Sounds like you have the problem area narrowed down. Hopefully a new connector fixes it once and for all.

Does FiTech uses different connectors? I know certain models use more of the ports in the connector, I guess I don't understand how so people seem to have alot more issues and some have none.
They use something very similar to this.


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Originally Posted by Tubbster1966 View Post
Will it not run with the handheld unplugged?
It doesn't need the handheld to run. It's what I use see if there's power to the TB

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post #50 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 07:42 PM
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Does anybody know how to back one of the wires out of the harness without damaging the wire or the harness? Before I return my unit to FiTech I would like to pull the blue tach wire from the TBI side of the harness and try to hook it directly to the coil to see if the harness isn't the culprit in my no tach signal situation. This connector seems to be one of the major weak links in this setup.

I'm so confident in actually getting my FiTech working that I have ordered a major rebuild kit for my old 4150 that hasn't been on a car for 17 years. I'm going to disassemble and run it through the dishwasher when the wife goes to visit her father tomorrow.
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post #51 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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The pin on the TBI side just pulls out. It's the red rubber oring that's keeping it in. When you want to put it back, just push it in and then use a tiny screwdriver to push the oring back in place. Once pulled out, you might just want to use a jumper to run to the coil or else you will have to cut the fishnet sleeve and the heavy duty tape at each end of the sleeve.

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post #52 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qbui View Post
The pin on the TBI side just pulls out. It's the red rubber oring that's keeping it in. When you want to put it back, just push it in and then use a tiny screwdriver to push the oring back in place. Once pulled out, you might just want to use a jumper to run to the coil or else you will have to cut the fishnet sleeve and the heavy duty tape at each end of the sleeve.
Thanks! Going to give it a try tomorrow. If that doesn't work, back in the box and back to them at my expense Monday.

Qbui, are you going to replace the connector with a more substantial unit?

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post #53 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-15-2017, 03:53 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nailbender View Post
Qbui, are you going to replace the connector with a more substantial unit?
I'm going to solder the power wire since that seems to be the cause of the issue. Even if all the other wires are bad but the power wire is good, the handheld should still power up but it doesn't.

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post #54 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-15-2017, 10:06 AM
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I don't know a lot about these and I hope you get yours worked out, but a buddy of mine fought with his for 5 months finally gave up and called Summit about a refund. They took it back after 5 months, so either their customer service is even better than I thought or they know these are having issues.

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post #55 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by srsfunk View Post
I don't know a lot about these and I hope you get yours worked out, but a buddy of mine fought with his for 5 months finally gave up and called Summit about a refund. They took it back after 5 months, so either their customer service is even better than I thought or they know these are having issues.
Bought mine over a year ago before Summit started carrying them. They only had one distributor at the time.

So after soldering the power wire together, I think the intermittent power outage is resolved. Drove the Mustang today and started and shut down the engine 5+ times and no issue so far. Now I just have to get the IAC within range. That's for another day.

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post #56 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qbui View Post
The pin on the TBI side just pulls out. It's the red rubber oring that's keeping it in. When you want to put it back, just push it in and then use a tiny screwdriver to push the oring back in place. Once pulled out, you might just want to use a jumper to run to the coil or else you will have to cut the fishnet sleeve and the heavy duty tape at each end of the sleeve.
I don't believe thats right, if your wires are like that, it more than likely is the issue. Typically on a plug like that theres a removable lock that must be removed (the yellow part) then this allows you access to the lock that holds the terminal in place.

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post #57 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cj428mach View Post
I don't believe thats right, if your wires are like that, it more than likely is the issue. Typically on a plug like that theres a removable lock that must be removed (the yellow part) then this allows you access to the lock that holds the terminal in place.
There is the plastic lock but that's on the female half of the connector. The male half of the connector to the TB just have the rubber gasket that holds it in place. Took that one out today to solder the power directly to the TB bypassing the connector.

Refer to the picture above. It's the blue rubber plugs but in the FiTech, it's red.

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post #58 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-17-2017, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cj428mach View Post
I don't believe thats right, if your wires are like that, it more than likely is the issue. Typically on a plug like that theres a removable lock that must be removed (the yellow part) then this allows you access to the lock that holds the terminal in place.
I agree, every pin/socket connector I've worked on has some sort of locking tab. The Red/Blue plugs are just there to seal the connection and make it weather resistant.

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post #59 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-17-2017, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen_wilson View Post
I agree, every pin/socket connector I've worked on has some sort of locking tab. The Red/Blue plugs are just there to seal the connection and make it weather resistant.
This is my experience as well. The rubber pieces are just weather seals, and the lock for the terminals are behind the retaining clip. Sometimes depending upon the connector the terminals can be installed upside down and then the locking mechanism will not work.

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post #60 of 74 (permalink) Old 06-24-2018, 11:11 PM
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This is my issue, I have the 600hp power adder , after driving [email protected] min the engine will try to die, no throttle response, finally it dies, shut the key off and notice the fuel pump is still running in the tank, never does that. So I plug in my controller and turn the key on, and it comes on but all values are blank, fuel pump still running. Started shaking wires while watching my controller, nothing, pull out 2 of the three fuses all good, pull out the15a fuse on the purple wire and the pump stops running, put the fuse back in, pump is now not running, all values reappear on the controller and the engine starts , runs great all the way home. Called fitech and the tech says they have never heard that one before, said I had a bad ground, checked base to battery negative, .3 ohm, he said I need to record a fault and send it to him. Help
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