About to set this car on fire - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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About to set this car on fire

So here it is. My buddy has a 1966 mustang with the inline 6 that im about to set on fire. I HATE this carburetor! He bought a brand new rebuild autolite 1100 carburetor since his was a total mess. Looks beautiful. I open it up before i put it on and double checked the float which is set to 1 inch 3/32 roughly. Seat and needle brand new and look good. Put carb cleaner through EVERY orifice on the carb and no blockages to include the fuel mixture screw. Choke is set correctly and has all check balls and weights. Put it on the car and block off the distributor vacuum advance and PCV valve port since those are the only line that has vacuum. Fuel filter is new, new sending unit new gas and gas tank, purged the fuel lines prior to hooking everything up. Fuel pressure when it runs for 3 seconds is 7psi. This stupid car will start up idle for like 2 seconds and die. Here a strange thing though. Has anyone seen a carb that will drip fuel from the venture for about 2 minutes. This one does. I even set the float to 1 and 1/2 inches so little fuel would be in the bowl and it still did it. Im baffled at that to say the least. Thats and it wanting to start for 2 seconds and die.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 08:17 PM
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Well it seems to be getting fuel no problem, have you checked for spark? Was the car running prior to the carb swap?

-Brett
1968 fastback 351w
1986 Iroc-Z
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Has spark i have checked that. Nice and bright spark. I could have sworn (im pretty sure i did but not 100%) i saw it at first shoot a nice fine mist when you pulled on the throttle linkage. But now it doesnt have that. It shoots a straight stream now.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 08:51 PM
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Can you take a pic of the Passenger side of the carb and post it here...?? I want to see if you have the right Autolite 1100 1v for a '66 Mustang 200. The Correct Autolite 1100 1v should have a "SPARK ADVANCE" on the Passenger side of the carb. If not, Then you've got the entirely wrong 1100 1V carb. There are a few different types of 1100 1v carbs.. Also, Is the car an Automatic or a Standard shift car?!??
Also check the firing order and Ignition timing... It sounds like you have something setup wrong.. The Ford 200ci six with the '64-'67 Autolite 1100 1v (Non-IMCO) is one of the most reliable engines and carb setups on the planet. Don't take it out on the carb unless its the wrong 1100 1V carb... If it isn't the carb, then its your distributor ignition timing.. most likely.

Listen to us, Post some pics, and we'll get her going... but you have to work with us here.. and you will reap the rewards...

"Was the car running prior to the carb swap"

That's a good question as well.. You did not answer it yet..


Thanks,

)

Tony K.



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1965 Mustang Convertible 200cid I6, 3spd Manual (Soon to be swapped for a '65 Date Coded C4!)
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Last edited by NEFaurora; 03-26-2017 at 08:55 PM.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 09:00 PM
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Ok is your car still having spark when it dies out? Coil could be bad. But there is definatly something wrong with carb. Should not be pushing gas out of venture after car is off. The gas is pulled thru venturi drawn by air. I would assume that there is something wrong with your float valve and/or level. Car probably starting because of acel pump then not getting right gas mixture when burned off.

Current piles of rust 1965: New yorker***1968: GTO convert, Lemans convert Porche 911***1969: MustangGT convert, Mach1 S code Mach1, Mach1 CobraJet R code GTO convert, Firbird Convert 1970 Boss 302***1972: Charger***1999:f250 CNG truck***2011:nissan Altima ---> I need to get rid of some of this junk lol
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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It has the spark advance on the side. Timing is at TDC and the firing order is correct. Ive double checked that a 100 times now lol. It start and seems to run quite well and smooth for those 2-3 seconds its running too.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 09:06 PM
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If gas is not cut off from valve it will dribble all hole until pressure dies down from gas pump. Additonally, check your oil for gas. If this dribbling goes on after car off, there may be gas in oil. Improper cutoff from float can lead to gas not being atomized or too rich keeping car from running.

Current piles of rust 1965: New yorker***1968: GTO convert, Lemans convert Porche 911***1969: MustangGT convert, Mach1 S code Mach1, Mach1 CobraJet R code GTO convert, Firbird Convert 1970 Boss 302***1972: Charger***1999:f250 CNG truck***2011:nissan Altima ---> I need to get rid of some of this junk lol
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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Exactly..... The dripping after the car is off and seriously its for about 1 to 2 minutes. Something would have to keep pressure for it to keep dripping. Im at a loss. It must be the accelerator pump then huh....
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Now lets make sure i got this right. Eerything thing ive read says the float should be 1 inch and 3/32 from the bottom flat pat of the top part of the carburetor. The needle and seat are brand new with no marks or trash.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 09:12 PM
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Yeah, You SHOULD NOT have any gas dripping from the carb...If so, Somthing is wrong. Also, Your Fuel Pump may be bad..

)

Tony K.
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1965 Mustang Convertible 200cid I6, 3spd Manual (Soon to be swapped for a '65 Date Coded C4!)
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by sctravis77 View Post
Exactly..... The dripping after the car is off and seriously its for about 1 to 2 minutes. Something would have to keep pressure for it to keep dripping. Im at a loss. It must be the accelerator pump then huh....
You know that you are having pressure afterward so you know it is failure to stop gas from entering carb when level is high. My guess is needle valve shot if float is set correctly and is still floating (they do get made bad and go bad). It could be a bad needle or even the seat could be bad. Normally when you turn off car, gas line is still pressurized. Some pressure may bleed out but it would take time for it all to bleed out. Pressure is getting from the fuel line to the bowl area without cutting off. That one of your problems for sure. You can test a few different ways with the bowl open by holding up float. There should be no leakage at all. Smallest leakage past the will keep carb from working correctly.

Current piles of rust 1965: New yorker***1968: GTO convert, Lemans convert Porche 911***1969: MustangGT convert, Mach1 S code Mach1, Mach1 CobraJet R code GTO convert, Firbird Convert 1970 Boss 302***1972: Charger***1999:f250 CNG truck***2011:nissan Altima ---> I need to get rid of some of this junk lol
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 09:29 PM
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Sounds like the float is binding or stuck/ or its a needle/seat issue. Or it could be the fuel pressure is pushing past the needle/seat. 7psi sounds a bit a high - should it be around 4.5psi? It may not be enough to cause this issue but it maybe.
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 09:31 PM
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Adjustment can be 100 percent correct but faulty needle or seat will nullify this. As we know, there should be no gas going into carb after car is off. I don't really think you can look to see if they look good. Easy to tell when they are bad but not good. Sometimes the needles are at wrong angles to seat and ect. I know how I would test but a little dangerous because I would have someone crank over engine for a times to build up pressure while I held the float up over a container with all ignition disconnected. Or you can test with water and a pump. Or you Or you can blow into gas inlet with air to see if leaking but this is not ideal check.

Current piles of rust 1965: New yorker***1968: GTO convert, Lemans convert Porche 911***1969: MustangGT convert, Mach1 S code Mach1, Mach1 CobraJet R code GTO convert, Firbird Convert 1970 Boss 302***1972: Charger***1999:f250 CNG truck***2011:nissan Altima ---> I need to get rid of some of this junk lol
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 09:32 PM
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Make sure the float bowl vent valve is properly adjusted.

Bart

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- Alfred E. Neuman

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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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Well ill look at the need and seat again and take a look at that fuel pressure again
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