Cost of a paint job - Page 3 - Vintage Mustang Forums
 43Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #31 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017, 10:20 PM
Senior Member
 
Turnall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Dothan, AL
Posts: 4,606
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmefly View Post
The funniest thing I hear is when someone says I want a driver quality paint job. No you don't because once we start on the car every single person that has had their car painted wants everything fixed perfectly. Happens every time.
That's a GREAT point!

Allen

My build thread: Allen's Build Thread

My go fast build thread: Go Fast Build Thread
Turnall is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017, 10:41 PM
Senior Member
 
Tallguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: NorCal
Posts: 826
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmefly View Post
. $2000 a gallon and the customer bought 2 gallons. .


That's just flushing money down the toilet. But I guess they can tell everyone "Check out my paint job....you know, just the paint alone was $4K...". I'd be embarrassed to spend that much on 2 gallons of paint.

But if that what your client wanted, then give it to them I guess.
DrHawkeye likes this.

66 Convertible. Full restoration in the works
Tallguy is offline  
post #33 of 69 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017, 11:07 PM
PetesPonies
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tallguy View Post
That's just flushing money down the toilet. But I guess they can tell everyone "Check out my paint job....you know, just the paint alone was $4K...". I'd be embarrassed to spend that much on 2 gallons of paint.

But if that what your client wanted, then give it to them I guess.
We are on the same page. I feel a happy customer is one that feels that got good deal. That doesn't happy with $4K in paint, not even close Look at the jeep I posted. That's a tri color and the mid coat flake flips. It was expensive, yes . . but how much do you need? Not much at all. How much is your painter saying he used and how much is he charging you? Those two answers can be far away from reality.
 
post #34 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 12:21 AM
Senior Member
 
69GT350H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Miami Florida
Posts: 3,257
Garage
The painter I found was so interested in my car, he quoted me only $3k to paint it. That includes about $1k for the Dupont Chroma paints (primer and top coat), block sanding and re-spraying the entire car with primer and top coat. As he is blocking the car he is finding that my body work is not to his standards, and from what I can see, he is correct as he has found most of my problem areas without me saying anything. So now he has to do extra body work. I agree with him and agreed to give him another $1k for the extra work. But, in the meantime, he needs to make money and that means doing insurance work, so my car sits a lot.

David
VMF Build Thread - 1969 Shelby GT350 Hertz rebuild Gallery
Used by Hertz for the 1969 "Rent-A-Racer" program at Miami Internation Airport.
69GT350H is online now  
post #35 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 04:18 AM
Member
 
Roboto65's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 35
Garage
Just went to a paint supplier in my area and my color what I want any way is 525 a gal that's a high pearl Illusion Blue which is a Honda color anyhow that gallon turns into 2 gallons sprayable give or take mixed one to one did not know a car to take 4 gals to paint but I am no painter lol just a hack learning as I go.
I think by the time I was done clear and primer I was a little over a 1000.

1966 Mustang Coupe 289 in progress
Roboto65 is offline  
post #36 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 08:56 AM
Senior Member
 
Lizer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 2,784
Cost of a paint job

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turnall View Post
I usually don't chime in on paint, simply because I'm no painter and would never claim to be. However, it appears to me (and any of the painters on the forum can feel free to correct me) that the major cost in a paint job is, wait for it, the PAINT!! I own a business in the petroleum equipment industry and have often thought about the money made on any given liquid (gas, diesel, etc.). Well, paint ranks WAY up there. As the OP stated, $1100 per gallon of paint (and that may very well be "cheap" paint).



Allen

$1100 is not cheap paint by any definition, it's paint from a huge corporation that buys out their competitors and ruins the formulations while maintaining their own at thousands of percent mark up. And they have to pay for those free booths they install for shops who sign long term contracts somehow, so everyone else gets to pay for it.

There are lots of small brands out there that make great quality bases at a fraction of what you get from PPG, DuPont, Sikkens, etc. I paid $85/quart for my Prospray Viper Blue base , which isn't a cheap color, but at the time Prospray was a good quality base (before they got bought out by either Valspar or Sherwin).

I sprayed some Automotive Art on my truck last year, that was pretty inexpensive too and also covered very well. Wanda is a Sikkens brand another quality paint for not a lot of money.

Of course the SPI bases are some of the best that you can get if they have a color you like.

And I wouldn't hesitate to use Urekem base on a car now after having some experience with it.

Some people wear the cost of their base as a badge of honor, as if they're proud they got ripped off paying over a $1000/gallon. It would be an embarrassing day for them if they park next to my car


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
arbys likes this.


67 coupe with 5.0 and C4 (Viper GTS Blue, paint code PBE, since everybody asks)
69 Mach 1 428 SCJ drag pack
Lizer is offline  
post #37 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 09:33 AM
Senior Member
 
dobrostang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 3,826
If you are not a do-it-yourself guy/gal and/or in the business and have connections you simply MUST consider the likely fact that you can get upside down financially, especially on most coupes very quickly and even a fastback these daze given the prices for a rust-bucket - you may break even if you are really smart - considering all the money you already likely have and plan to have into the car. These daze for most carz I am looking at, I either buy one with a paint job I can live with or flip it before paint. Frankly most people don't know how much paint costs and there is an arbitrage there or money to be made.

There are just so few cars that can tolerate that kind of investment and if you search around in the archives there are several "how much do you have into your car" posts. The majority of the posts - people are seriously upside down (not unusual over $10K) experiencing a consolation prize of driving the car they have dreamed of completing. This can still be quite rewarding as long as you are not living with stink-eye from SWMBO. The good news is that time has a way of healing these wounds if you have a decade or two. I had a Harley I was even on but 10 years later doubled my money, however I sweated kids bicycles and basketballs for those 10 years...

What I have learned over the decades for the cars I keep is that you don't need a bitch'n paint job to have a blast driving a car and get complements. All you need (for muscle carz) is something presentable with a decent cam and exhaust tone to get attention unless you spend your weekends in a lawn chair amongst the elite classes of owners...
v8stang289, arbys and 1966Stangman like this.

Heavy Metal Thunder Video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cW3L_O7N_xs

Last edited by dobrostang; 04-01-2017 at 09:39 AM.
dobrostang is offline  
post #38 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 09:50 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 294
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69GT350H View Post
The painter I found was so interested in my car, he quoted me only $3k to paint it. That includes about $1k for the Dupont Chroma paints (primer and top coat), block sanding and re-spraying the entire car with primer and top coat. As he is blocking the car he is finding that my body work is not to his standards, and from what I can see, he is correct as he has found most of my problem areas without me saying anything. So now he has to do extra body work. I agree with him and agreed to give him another $1k for the extra work. But, in the meantime, he needs to make money and that means doing insurance work, so my car sits a lot.

This guy is being more than fair especially if he is supplying the paint materials. The last car I had painted, my 66 GT worked out like this. Bodyman charged $1500 to do the car. No crash damage, nos hood, fenders, deck lid. Painter charged $1000 to paint the car in pieces. I did all the priming, blocking and supplied all material. My brother used to be manager at dealership body shops and I still had a hard time getting the work done. Some painters are crazy on their prices. As with everything else, the most expensive part of a paint job is labor, not the cost of the paint...

66' Mustang GT coupe 4 speed
69' Mach 1 428 CJ-R
67' Shelby GT500 clone project
2012 F150 S/C 5.0 RCSB
AZdriver is offline  
post #39 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 10:25 AM
Senior Member
 
cmefly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Bonney Lake
Posts: 4,551
It is not the "paint job" that cost so much money. It is the labor that is involved when you want it done right. Stripping the car to bare metal and fixing the rust issues, NOT laying bondo over the problem areas, removing the Hood,bumper,doors ,glass and general disassembly and assembly, Fitting all the panels and fixing the body gaps and doing the body work and all the masking. That is a lot of labor. Also factor in a minimum of $2000 for material with paint to do a Mustang the actual spraying of the car is cheap once its ready for paint and I mean actually ready for paint. I have seen so many cars that people say "its ready for paint" how much to just spray it then you tell them it will be another week or two of work done correctly before its ready for paint.

Last edited by cmefly; 04-01-2017 at 10:29 AM.
cmefly is online now  
post #40 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 10:36 AM
PetesPonies
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69GT350H View Post
The painter I found was so interested in my car, he quoted me only $3k to paint it. That includes about $1k for the Dupont Chroma paints (primer and top coat), block sanding and re-spraying the entire car with primer and top coat. As he is blocking the car he is finding that my body work is not to his standards, and from what I can see, he is correct as he has found most of my problem areas without me saying anything. So now he has to do extra body work. I agree with him and agreed to give him another $1k for the extra work. But, in the meantime, he needs to make money and that means doing insurance work, so my car sits a lot.
Very reasonable.
post #41 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 10:37 AM
PetesPonies
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
$1100 is not cheap paint by any definition, it's paint from a huge corporation that buys out their competitors and ruins the formulations while maintaining their own at thousands of percent mark up. And they have to pay for those free booths they install for shops who sign long term contracts somehow, so everyone else gets to pay for it.

There are lots of small brands out there that make great quality bases at a fraction of what you get from PPG, DuPont, Sikkens, etc. I paid $85/quart for my Prospray Viper Blue base , which isn't a cheap color, but at the time Prospray was a good quality base (before they got bought out by either Valspar or Sherwin).

I sprayed some Automotive Art on my truck last year, that was pretty inexpensive too and also covered very well. Wanda is a Sikkens brand another quality paint for not a lot of money.

Of course the SPI bases are some of the best that you can get if they have a color you like.

And I wouldn't hesitate to use Urekem base on a car now after having some experience with it.

Some people wear the cost of their base as a badge of honor, as if they're proud they got ripped off paying over a $1000/gallon. It would be an embarrassing day for them if they park next to my car


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
here here
post #42 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 11:14 AM
Senior Member
 
Jim65FB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 276
Well, I am in that situation right now. I totally stripped down my 65 Fastback (that I have owned since 1984), of the interior, windows, and all the trim. I stripped off most the the paint, took off the hood, front and rear valences, fenders, etc. I did some light bodywork, and sprayed with high build primer and block sanded the best I could. I am no body man.
I could not find anyone who wanted to for less than $6000 up to $40,000. I didn't want to pay so much that I would be afraid to drive it. So decided I had to go with Maaco. They had just opened an new shop on my side of town and were very interested in getting the work. I told them I wanted their top of the line job, the Platinum service. The car has been with them for almost 4 weeks now, which I don't mind because they told me they were going to take their time and do a really good job on it. They hope to take pictures of it and use it for their Grand Opening, so I hope that is also an incentive for them to do a good job on it. I am paying $3200 for the work which also includes color sanding and buffing it out. I should be getting it back before too long and I will report back on how it came out. By the way, I am having it done in Acapulco Blue. I am retired and 66 years old and just want to drive it again.
GearHeadPeter and Brady68 like this.

Jim

65 Fastback 289 4 speed
Jim65FB is offline  
post #43 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 12:16 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 8,462
Garage
My experience tells me that:

Sometimes when a shop doesn't want the job, they will throw a scare-em-away price at you to drive you off. It usually is nothing personal, just that they see the job as more trouble than it is worth;

A restoration shop is not the place to go if you want a "Driver" quality paint job;

A restoration shop builds its reputation painting trophy winning show cars and will generally not risk its hard earned reputation doing anything less;

The labor to properly prep a car for paint can be staggering and labor is the single largest line item in a repaint budget;

Minimum wage in a number of areas hovers between $10.00/hr and $15.00/ hr, for an apprentice level body shop helper. Who do you think pays for that minimum wage?

Higher quality paint and materials can be very expensive. Yesterday I was at my local automotive paint store and the guy behind the counter was quoting materials costs for another customer. The numbers for epoxy primer, base coat/clear coat, and reducer exceeded $1400 and he was still adding other consumables (sand paper, scotch brite pads, tape, masking paper, etc when I turned my attention away;

Do NOT automatically discount the quality of a MAACO job. Over the past several years, I have had MAACO do two project cars for me. Granted, neither car required much hammer and dolly work, neither car needed rust repair, and both cars were delivered to the paint shop without glass, trim, interiors or powertrains. I am fortunate that my local MAACO franchisee loves doing the older cars even though his bread and butter work is collision repair of more modern cars;

Here's a link to the '68 convertible I freshened up several years ago: 68 S CODE 390 CONV

Note that a since that car left my driveway, additional efforts to take the car to the next level were lavished on it but, as far as i can tell, the paint is the same $2500 MAACO job that I put on it.

The car in my sig pic below was done at a small 3 man collision shop more than a dozen years ago, long before I learned of my local MAACO option. The agreed quality standard of that job was based upon a car that this painter had done for a mutual friend of ours and was in my mind, a high level driver paint job. Cost then, $7500. Incidentally, I got an even better quality paint job than I paid for and every compliment I received confirmed my impression.

Low cost paint jobs include low cost paint supplies and sometimes even a paint roller !! Seriously, several years ago some guy used a non-automotive self-leveling paint product to roll paint onto a Dodge Charger. Considerable hand sanding between coats was required but the end product was acceptable to the owner. Here's a youtube link to the process:

url]http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k156/jefftepper/IMG_0027_edited-1.jpg[/url]

*Principal wrench on this 69 Mach I*
JeffTepper is offline  
post #44 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 12:17 AM
Senior Member
 
Target's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: California
Posts: 1,668
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by crxnug View Post
we are a Restoration shop in Canada and your looking at $20000 + canadian$, metal work would be extra, We dont do driver quality paintwork, We always get someone saying i just want driver quality paint, (where do you want me to cut corners for that "drivers quality?")
I'm sorry but $20,000 Canadian is ridiculous for paint unless it's going to SEMA.

I've become a proponent of "do the bodywork/metalwork yourself" due to circumstance. There's not really "driver quality" bodywork. There's doing it right and there's doing it wrong. And as my grandfather always says, "If you can't do it right, don't do it at all." I couldn't afford $9000 for bodywork on my car but I could afford a welder and a hammer.

But driver quality paint is one that isn't mirror like. It may have some orange peel but it'll be durable and stand up to abuse. My car has 3 or 4 layers of clear over the paint and I didn't pay to have it color sanded and buffed in order keep the cost down. It's got a few specs of dust in the clear, there are two small paint drips, it's not perfect. They didn't go over it with a fine tooth comb, a magnifying glass, or an electron microscope. That would be pointless for a daily or even regularly driven car. But that's not cutting corners. It's going as far as it needs to knowing full well it's going to get scratched and chipped and dirty.
Brady68 likes this.

1967 Mustang w/ 302 4bbl - Build Thread
1967 Galaxie Wagon w/ 289 2bbl
1972 Honda CL350 - Parked since 1978 in a barn.
1976 Triumph Bonneville

Currently an Automotive Restoration Student at McPherson College.
Target is offline  
post #45 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 10:32 AM
Senior Member
 
j persons's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Natchitoches, LA. at the edge of the swamp
Posts: 4,058
Last time I checked, Jeff Miller in Temecula Cal will paint a Cobra including the body and door fitting and a few other things for around $7500. Even though a Mustang is larger the cost may be comparable. and this is not just for a DD type paint job. He mainly does Cobras, but I think I've seen other cars at his shop

John

The Fauxstang. Dynacorn 67 fastback. Dart SHP 363, Close ratio Magnum 6 speed, 3.70 Eaton Truetrac in a fabricated full floater 9", SorT coil over suspension. Still in pieces.
'14 SHO with most all the bells and whistles. Stock for now.
F-150 SCab daily driver
j persons is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in













Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome