Global West Suspension Review and Install - Vintage Mustang Forums
 32Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Brian66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: SoCal
Posts: 406
Global West Suspension Review and Install

I recently purchased the entire front suspension kit from Global West for my 1966 Mustang and thought I'd post my initial impressions of their kit. In addition to their components, i also purchased and installed the ORP roller perches and Bilstein shocks. The intended purpose for my car is mainly street driving around the canyons of SoCal with the occasional autocross or open track event.

The upper control arms are Global West's new +3 arm which as the name implies has 3* of caster built in. It's not adjustable like some on the market but I figure I'd never adjust the caster at the arm rather I'd fine tune it through the strut rod. The arm is really sturdy and the bushings are made from an aluminum race with a Delrin bushing, eliminating the stock rubber bushing. The mounting bolts are made from larger 9/16" bolts rather than the stock 1/2". The arms come with a 1 3/8" lowering template. With the lower mounting position and the larger bolt holes it required me to cut a little slot in the sheet metal "fold" on the inner shock tower. I then simply flattened the sheet metal by tightening with the provided washer and nut. The powder coating was smooth with few imperfections. The paint was applied pretty thick so I had to run a 3/8 drill through the holes for the spring perches to mount up properly. No biggie. The mounts on the back of the control arm are polished and feature the Global West logo cast into them. Nice details. The packaging was excellent and each arm was wrapped individually in paper and each was then boxed in their own box. Both boxes were then put into one box.

The lower arms are pretty par for the course at this price point. They feature teflon lined spherical bearings and a tubular construction. One nice feature is that the reinforcing plates on the top and bottom of the tubes near the bearing are wrapped around the tube holding the bearing in place and not simply butted to the top and bottom of the control arm. Seems this would add considerable strength to this area.

The strut rods are massive compared to stock. The heim joint is similarly huge. The nut that clamps the strut rod to the frame mount is 1 1/2" and required a trip to the store to purchase such a large socket. I also had to rent a larger torque wrench from Autozone to get the required 120 lbs. of torque on the nut. The powder coating was pretty good on the top but underneath the plate that attaches the strut rod showed some slight dust in the paint. The Global West strut rods also use the stock steering stops so you'll need those, whereas others have them built in. Not a big deal but I had to spend some time cleaning them up and spraying with my new favorite paint. Tractor Supply sells this Majic tractor paint in gloss black that is oil based. It takes forever to dry but when it does its nearly as smooth and hard as powder coating in my opinion.

The roll bar i purchased was similar to others on the market. It would be useful if the supplied endlink bolts were a 1/4" longer in order to make it easier to install the nut. As they are, I had to get a bar clamp on top of the end link bolt head and below the lower control arm tube to squeeze enough threads out to install the nut.

The coil springs were painted nicely and featured the part number on the spring for future reference. The ones i purchased are the 640 lbs springs which came recommended by Global West.

At the same time as installing these parts I also received and installed ZRay's lower crossmember. I purchased the low profile version with the jack pad. It's extremely nice and much heavier duty than the factory one. I'm confident it will stiffen everything up below the engine. It installed without modification and looks great.

ORP spring perches arrived and as many previously stated look and function great. Bearings are replaceable and the paint looked good.

Overall the suspension went in nicely and I'm happy with the quality which is always a concern when you spend this kind of money. The real proof will be in a few months when I get an alignment and get it on the road.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg suspension.jpg (91.7 KB, 343 views)
File Type: jpg suspension 1.jpg (87.5 KB, 327 views)
File Type: jpg upper arm.jpg (67.0 KB, 302 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1447.jpg (78.5 KB, 299 views)
File Type: jpg crossmember.jpg (82.0 KB, 300 views)
File Type: jpg side view.jpg (90.8 KB, 271 views)
Huskinhano, Ponyboy, zray and 5 others like this.
Brian66 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 03:03 PM
Senior Member
 
kenash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Severna Park, MD
Posts: 5,949
Garage
Yes, ZRays's cross member is the "bees knees"! The "pad" is a nice touch.
Should do well in the canyon carving category.....

Ken ..
64 1/2 Poppy Red Cvt. Resto-Mod
333 Cu.in. T5z, 3:55, Dual 40 mm DCOE Webers
Performer RPM, CI cam, TFS/TWs, Tri-Ys, Discs w/Shelby Drums
Maryland
kenash is offline  
post #3 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 03:57 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tunkhannock PA
Posts: 19,622
Very similar to my 66's suspension. I went with SoT. There's no reason why you can't add shims to equalizer or fine tune caster as well. That's what I did. As you crank on the strut, it really pulls the tire close to the fender. Something to check for. I noticed on my car there is a lot more suspension travel then there the tie rods will allow. At least on my car. I'm running 72 spindles with a Baer bump steer kit. I noticed when the suspension was at full travel, the rod end ran out of travel before the suspension did. This caused the suspension to go into positive camber and toe the tires in. It makes me wonder if this was just unique to the rod ends or if the boot on stock tie rods obscures this from view. I was checking the boot on the lower ball joint to see if it was separating.

If you're at this level of suspension components and did this work yourself, you really, really should be doing your own alignments. This is going to be a huge help in setting it up right. Otherwise you're leaving a lot on the table. There is no reason why you can't. This hit me right in the middle of my install and has been a huge help. I learned to do my own. It's well worth it. I'm speaking from experience and 20/20 hind sight on my car.

In the end, you're going to notice a huge difference. I'd also suggest a roller idler arm from Opentracker and grease the steering box. My box took about a tube and a half of grease! I used Mobile 1 synthetic red grease for GM and Japanese cars. I also added a Opentracker camber kit.
Caper50 and 2nd 66 like this.

Tom

One thing great about getting older. A life in prison sentence is less of a deterrence


Last edited by Huskinhano; 04-25-2017 at 03:59 PM.
Huskinhano is offline  
 
post #4 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 05:10 PM
Senior Member
 
BradAlbrecht's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 567
Garage
That is the same front end I have on my 67. I still don't have an engine in it, so I wasn't able to thread the sway bar, like you mentioned (LCA are not horizontal, so even less thread is showing). I also picked up the export brace from Global West, as I thought it looked good and was super rigid. I keep thinking about zray's cross-member. I will probably do that when I get things put together and install the eccentric lock-out kit after alignment.
BradAlbrecht is offline  
post #5 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 05:33 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tunkhannock PA
Posts: 19,622
I have Z's cross member on my 66. I was flat out impressed with it! When you take into account these cars were made 50+ years ago with less then precision assembly, road use and other hazards along with owner modifications, like my camber kit, his bar practically installed itself. His instructions are well written and concise. Z advises that the two frame holes may need to be altered. I barely had to grind a spot on each hole for the bolts to thread in easily by hand. that was it. I've noticed the front end feels a bit stiffer. I highly recommend one. I got the jack pad option on mine. The cross member also clears my Canton pan with room to spare while the stock cross member was hitting the pan.
Ponyboy and 2nd 66 like this.

Tom

One thing great about getting older. A life in prison sentence is less of a deterrence

Huskinhano is offline  
post #6 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Brian66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: SoCal
Posts: 406
Thanks for the advice guys. I am planning on doing my alignment myself. It seems pretty straightforward and since I have trust issues with people wrenching on my car I will either figure it out or die trying. I don't know how much more caster I'd add but probably no more than a degree if any since I'm keeping the manual steering. I'm installing MustangSteve's brake system this weekend and then I plan on ordering ORP's complete steering rebuild kit with the roller quick steer pitman and idler. I also already bought the Mobil 1 synthetic in preparation for the suspension components and rebuilding the hubs. I'll have to pick up another tube for the box.
DonP likes this.
Brian66 is offline  
post #7 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-30-2017, 11:55 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tunkhannock PA
Posts: 19,622
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian66 View Post
Thanks for the advice guys. I am planning on doing my alignment myself. It seems pretty straightforward and since I have trust issues with people wrenching on my car I will either figure it out or die trying. I don't know how much more caster I'd add but probably no more than a degree if any since I'm keeping the manual steering. I'm installing MustangSteve's brake system this weekend and then I plan on ordering ORP's complete steering rebuild kit with the roller quick steer pitman and idler. I also already bought the Mobil 1 synthetic in preparation for the suspension components and rebuilding the hubs. I'll have to pick up another tube for the box.

I have a 16:1 manual box with 4* caster. The trick with manual steering is watch tire pressure and have the car moving when turning the wheels. Even if it's just barely moving it helps a lot. Since you plan on doing your own alignment, congratulations. If you haven't seen it I did a DIY home alignment post.

Tom

One thing great about getting older. A life in prison sentence is less of a deterrence

Huskinhano is offline  
post #8 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-30-2017, 11:58 PM
Senior Member
 
happystang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 4,128
Garage
Thanks for the info, I already have the GW strut rods and love them. I'm planning on getting their UCA at some point.

1969 Convertible field find (450hp spaghetti noodle)
1968 Fastback (428 and a 4 speed)
www.SaveClassicCars.net

-Armon

happystang is offline  
post #9 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 12:56 AM
Senior Member
 
Kelly_H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Austin, TX!
Posts: 6,349
Wow-ee, those are some beefy strut rods! They look great.

As mentioned, be careful of using the strut rods alone to adjust caster. It'll pull your tire forward into the wheelwell and can make it rub or give it other geometry issues if you mess with the strut rod length too much.
supershifter2 likes this.


Calamity Jane 1966 Modified Fastback - Driven semi-daily!
Wrecked and rebuilt even better
289 v8, 4-speed, 3.25 9" rear, goodies and stuff.

See my travel blog here for my adventures: http://mapandamustang.blogspot.com/
Over 50,000 miles of North American roads driven on road trips since 2014. More always in the works - stay tuned!

When I show up at a car show and my car is covered in mud, it's probably because I drove 2000 miles to get there
Kelly_H is offline  
post #10 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 01:12 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Brian66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: SoCal
Posts: 406
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelly_H View Post

As mentioned, be careful of using the strut rods alone to adjust caster. It'll pull your tire forward into the wheelwell and can make it rub or give it other geometry issues if you mess with the strut rod length too much.

Thanks Kelly for the words of caution. If I do it at all it won't be much. It's not a race car, so the 3* already built into the upper arm will probably be fine for my purposes. Yeah, when I pulled the strut rod out of the box and looked at the bolt holding it to the frame I thought my goodness is that really necessary. That bolt cold seriously hold up the whole car. I'm sure the frame mount will bend and brake before the bolt ever even comes close. Complete overkill but gotta have it! Lol!
Brian66 is offline  
post #11 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 09:34 AM
Senior Member
 
GT289's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: SoCal
Posts: 8,078
Strength of materials and associated liability. (If "this" makes the critical
numbers for safety, than "this" even bigger design will never break)
That's why all their stuff is built the way it is.


ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
Huskinhano and gimpystoy like this.

As the drill sergeant said, "I taught you everything you know. I didn't teach you everything I know."

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so."
- Douglas Adams
GT289 is offline  
post #12 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 11:20 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Southern NJ pinelands
Posts: 1,627
Bigger can be "better" in some things
gimpystoy is offline  
post #13 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-21-2017, 12:21 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: San Diego
Posts: 255
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian66 View Post
I recently purchased the entire front suspension kit from Global West for my 1966 Mustang and thought I'd post my initial impressions of their kit. In addition to their components, i also purchased and installed the ORP roller perches and Bilstein shocks.
Nice looking car; I like the color. Have you had a chance to drive the car yet or get all the weight on the suspension?

I am wondering how you like the ride, and how the car sits. Do you go with the sport or street valves shocks?

I have a 66 coupe also and just got the same control arms and am choosing my springs now. I'm either going to get the GW spring set (perhaps with 540 rate front springs) or a set of Eaton GT springs. I also plan to run the Bilstein. I have roller perches as well.

James

66 Coupe Project 289
Eitelbj is offline  
post #14 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-21-2017, 01:02 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tunkhannock PA
Posts: 19,622
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eitelbj View Post
Nice looking car; I like the color. Have you had a chance to drive the car yet or get all the weight on the suspension?

I am wondering how you like the ride, and how the car sits. Do you go with the sport or street valves shocks?

I have a 66 coupe also and just got the same control arms and am choosing my springs now. I'm either going to get the GW spring set (perhaps with 540 rate front springs) or a set of Eaton GT springs. I also plan to run the Bilstein. I have roller perches as well.
Go with the heavier 540 spring. I'm assuming you read my posts on this thread. Even though I have Street or Track in the end it's very similar to mine. With all the bearings I found it kills spring rate. I was running stock uncut GT coils. The susension was way too soft. I mean I could bottom the suspension simply by sitting on the fender and I weigh about 170 pounds. I couldn't have a passenger as it would bottom the suspension and I would be on the bump stops all most all the time if not all the time. I recently swapped to the .620" springs from SoT amd cut a half coil off. i was concerned that they would be harsh. My concerns were unfounded, it's firm but definitely not harsh. In fact with the Bilstein Sports, a very, very good combination. I'm pleased with the combination. The stock rubber bushings add a on of binding.

Tom

One thing great about getting older. A life in prison sentence is less of a deterrence

Huskinhano is offline  
post #15 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-21-2017, 01:47 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: San Diego
Posts: 255
Garage
Thanks very much for the feedback!

James

66 Coupe Project 289
Eitelbj is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome