I recently purchased the entire front suspension kit from Global West for my 1966 Mustang and thought I'd post my initial impressions of their kit. In addition to their components, i also purchased and installed the ORP roller perches and Bilstein shocks. The intended purpose for my car is mainly street driving around the canyons of SoCal with the occasional autocross or open track event.
The upper control arms are Global West's new +3 arm which as the name implies has 3* of caster built in. It's not adjustable like some on the market but I figure I'd never adjust the caster at the arm rather I'd fine tune it through the strut rod. The arm is really sturdy and the bushings are made from an aluminum race with a Delrin bushing, eliminating the stock rubber bushing. The mounting bolts are made from larger 9/16" bolts rather than the stock 1/2". The arms come with a 1 3/8" lowering template. With the lower mounting position and the larger bolt holes it required me to cut a little slot in the sheet metal "fold" on the inner shock tower. I then simply flattened the sheet metal by tightening with the provided washer and nut. The powder coating was smooth with few imperfections. The paint was applied pretty thick so I had to run a 3/8 drill through the holes for the spring perches to mount up properly. No biggie. The mounts on the back of the control arm are polished and feature the Global West logo cast into them. Nice details. The packaging was excellent and each arm was wrapped individually in paper and each was then boxed in their own box. Both boxes were then put into one box.
The lower arms are pretty par for the course at this price point. They feature teflon lined spherical bearings and a tubular construction. One nice feature is that the reinforcing plates on the top and bottom of the tubes near the bearing are wrapped around the tube holding the bearing in place and not simply butted to the top and bottom of the control arm. Seems this would add considerable strength to this area.
The strut rods are massive compared to stock. The heim joint is similarly huge. The nut that clamps the strut rod to the frame mount is 1 1/2" and required a trip to the store to purchase such a large socket. I also had to rent a larger torque wrench from Autozone to get the required 120 lbs. of torque on the nut. The powder coating was pretty good on the top but underneath the plate that attaches the strut rod showed some slight dust in the paint. The Global West strut rods also use the stock steering stops so you'll need those, whereas others have them built in. Not a big deal but I had to spend some time cleaning them up and spraying with my new favorite paint. Tractor Supply sells this Majic tractor paint in gloss black that is oil based. It takes forever to dry but when it does its nearly as smooth and hard as powder coating in my opinion.
The roll bar i purchased was similar to others on the market. It would be useful if the supplied endlink bolts were a 1/4" longer in order to make it easier to install the nut. As they are, I had to get a bar clamp on top of the end link bolt head and below the lower control arm tube to squeeze enough threads out to install the nut.
The coil springs were painted nicely and featured the part number on the spring for future reference. The ones i purchased are the 640 lbs springs which came recommended by Global West.
At the same time as installing these parts I also received and installed ZRay's lower crossmember. I purchased the low profile version with the jack pad. It's extremely nice and much heavier duty than the factory one. I'm confident it will stiffen everything up below the engine. It installed without modification and looks great.
ORP spring perches arrived and as many previously stated look and function great. Bearings are replaceable and the paint looked good.
Overall the suspension went in nicely and I'm happy with the quality which is always a concern when you spend this kind of money. The real proof will be in a few months when I get an alignment and get it on the road.
Very similar to my 66's suspension. I went with SoT. There's no reason why you can't add shims to equalizer or fine tune caster as well. That's what I did. As you crank on the strut, it really pulls the tire close to the fender. Something to check for. I noticed on my car there is a lot more suspension travel then there the tie rods will allow. At least on my car. I'm running 72 spindles with a Baer bump steer kit. I noticed when the suspension was at full travel, the rod end ran out of travel before the suspension did. This caused the suspension to go into positive camber and toe the tires in. It makes me wonder if this was just unique to the rod ends or if the boot on stock tie rods obscures this from view. I was checking the boot on the lower ball joint to see if it was separating.
If you're at this level of suspension components and did this work yourself, you really, really should be doing your own alignments. This is going to be a huge help in setting it up right. Otherwise you're leaving a lot on the table. There is no reason why you can't. This hit me right in the middle of my install and has been a huge help. I learned to do my own. It's well worth it. I'm speaking from experience and 20/20 hind sight on my car.
In the end, you're going to notice a huge difference. I'd also suggest a roller idler arm from Opentracker and grease the steering box. My box took about a tube and a half of grease! I used Mobile 1 synthetic red grease for GM and Japanese cars. I also added a Opentracker camber kit.
That is the same front end I have on my 67. I still don't have an engine in it, so I wasn't able to thread the sway bar, like you mentioned (LCA are not horizontal, so even less thread is showing). I also picked up the export brace from Global West, as I thought it looked good and was super rigid. I keep thinking about zray's cross-member. I will probably do that when I get things put together and install the eccentric lock-out kit after alignment.
I have Z's cross member on my 66. I was flat out impressed with it! When you take into account these cars were made 50+ years ago with less then precision assembly, road use and other hazards along with owner modifications, like my camber kit, his bar practically installed itself. His instructions are well written and concise. Z advises that the two frame holes may need to be altered. I barely had to grind a spot on each hole for the bolts to thread in easily by hand. that was it. I've noticed the front end feels a bit stiffer. I highly recommend one. I got the jack pad option on mine. The cross member also clears my Canton pan with room to spare while the stock cross member was hitting the pan.
Thanks for the advice guys. I am planning on doing my alignment myself. It seems pretty straightforward and since I have trust issues with people wrenching on my car I will either figure it out or die trying. I don't know how much more caster I'd add but probably no more than a degree if any since I'm keeping the manual steering. I'm installing MustangSteve's brake system this weekend and then I plan on ordering ORP's complete steering rebuild kit with the roller quick steer pitman and idler. I also already bought the Mobil 1 synthetic in preparation for the suspension components and rebuilding the hubs. I'll have to pick up another tube for the box.
I have a 16:1 manual box with 4* caster. The trick with manual steering is watch tire pressure and have the car moving when turning the wheels. Even if it's just barely moving it helps a lot. Since you plan on doing your own alignment, congratulations. If you haven't seen it I did a DIY home alignment post.
Wow-ee, those are some beefy strut rods! They look great.
As mentioned, be careful of using the strut rods alone to adjust caster. It'll pull your tire forward into the wheelwell and can make it rub or give it other geometry issues if you mess with the strut rod length too much.
As mentioned, be careful of using the strut rods alone to adjust caster. It'll pull your tire forward into the wheelwell and can make it rub or give it other geometry issues if you mess with the strut rod length too much.
Thanks Kelly for the words of caution. If I do it at all it won't be much. It's not a race car, so the 3* already built into the upper arm will probably be fine for my purposes. Yeah, when I pulled the strut rod out of the box and looked at the bolt holding it to the frame I thought my goodness is that really necessary. That bolt cold seriously hold up the whole car. I'm sure the frame mount will bend and brake before the bolt ever even comes close. Complete overkill but gotta have it! Lol!
Strength of materials and associated liability. (If "this" makes the critical
numbers for safety, than "this" even bigger design will never break)
That's why all their stuff is built the way it is.
I recently purchased the entire front suspension kit from Global West for my 1966 Mustang and thought I'd post my initial impressions of their kit. In addition to their components, i also purchased and installed the ORP roller perches and Bilstein shocks.
Nice looking car; I like the color. Have you had a chance to drive the car yet or get all the weight on the suspension?
I am wondering how you like the ride, and how the car sits. Do you go with the sport or street valves shocks?
I have a 66 coupe also and just got the same control arms and am choosing my springs now. I'm either going to get the GW spring set (perhaps with 540 rate front springs) or a set of Eaton GT springs. I also plan to run the Bilstein. I have roller perches as well.
Go with the heavier 540 spring. I'm assuming you read my posts on this thread. Even though I have Street or Track in the end it's very similar to mine. With all the bearings I found it kills spring rate. I was running stock uncut GT coils. The susension was way too soft. I mean I could bottom the suspension simply by sitting on the fender and I weigh about 170 pounds. I couldn't have a passenger as it would bottom the suspension and I would be on the bump stops all most all the time if not all the time. I recently swapped to the .620" springs from SoT amd cut a half coil off. i was concerned that they would be harsh. My concerns were unfounded, it's firm but definitely not harsh. In fact with the Bilstein Sports, a very, very good combination. I'm pleased with the combination. The stock rubber bushings add a on of binding.
My advice is to go with the 540# spring, unless you are
RACING FOR A LIVING.
The word is "compliance"....... you want a suspension
with corrected geometry to move and you want the tires
in perfect contact with the road. Those springs will do
that for you perfectly for 99% of the usage a 65-68
is likely to see.
With the engine bay empty for the fifth and hopefully final time I need to drill some UCA holes and do whatever massaging is necessary on the shock Towers to get this Mustang to not handle like a POS. I have been looking at the Global West +3 upper Control arms for a few years and unless someone can talk me out of them I plan on ordering them. I think the SoT coil over system is awesome but sadly out of reach financially given my engine issues over the last couple of years.
My Mustang is going to be a 99% rural backroads burner and will never see a track. Maybe Tire Rack's test rack in South Bend? I did alignments for a living in the early eighties and appreciate the 3 degrees of caster that these UCA's build in. Stacking shims to gain caster is not a good idea on a car that is all sheet metal.
When I did my front end GW didn't have the +3 arms and the SoT were adjustable and came pre adjusted to 3*. I'm happy with my non coil over arms. I also have roller spring perches. I can tell you with the all bearing suspension you really have to up your game on spring rates. I ran the GT coils, they were not enough I was constantly on the bump stops. I've since gone to the .620" springs from SoT listed at 600#. I know GT289 said 540# is about the max but I'm finding a firm but definitely not harsh or uncomfortable ride. I don't think I would want to run these springs with a stock suspension which I definitely think would be too much.
One of the guys here just upgraded his non coil over SoT to SoT coil over. I believe he's selling his old stuff if your interested.
Have you looked at Total Control Product's front suspension offerings?
I went with their tubular upper and lower control arm system as the uppers can be easily adjusted in place. Also, has a 1" drop included in the bolt-on assembly.
Obviously, much easier for DIY or techs. Total Control Products
That drop shaft gives me the willies. Its made of aluminum! I'd break that for sure. Why not take 20 minutes and drill the lower holes? This is not your radio volume knob we are talking about. If your control arm breaks its going to be ugly.
Not a fan of the barrel adjusters. So you use them to set your alignment. Problem is the chassis is nowhere near equal both sides so you'll adjust each arm a different amount. Now you have different shape control arms on either side of the car. I'd prefer my car to turn left the same it turns right... Its not an Indy car or NASCAR.
Our arms offer the best of both worlds. They can be installed as shipped with caster built in and shimmed behind the shaft or, you can modify BOTH arms to run more aggressive alignments if you choose.
The Total Control uppers are a little spendy for me and I really don't plan on using any heim joints on my front end because it's just a street car. I know they are probably 2 million times stronger than any other bushing but I just don't see the need.
I would like to ask if after the investment that made the suspension if the driving exceeded expectations.
Did you notice great improvement in driving? Did the car get much better driving?
I am from Portugal and I researched in several forums to know what would be the best option to improve the driving, if a simple shelby drop or change to a modern upper control arms
I'm thinking of changing my upper arms to those of the GW-MNR-733 and take advantage of to change the springs and Seat Coil Perches.
I was very curious about your suspension change, even though I knew it was much more thorough than what I intend to do.
I have a 67 fastback and my use is for street racing but I like to have better driving.
Do you think GW is a good option?
You think that just with the change I'm going to make, I'll have improvements in driving and in the car.
I'm from Portugal and here is not easy to get information and opinions and there are few American cars here, let alone who knows how to work on them. If you could help me I would be grateful
I would like to ask if after the investment that made the suspension if the driving exceeded expectations.
Did you notice great improvement in driving? Did the car get much better driving?
I am from Portugal and I researched in several forums to know what would be the best option to improve the driving, if a simple shelby drop or change to a modern upper control arms
I'm thinking of changing my upper arms to those of the GW-MNR-733 and take advantage of to change the springs and Seat Coil Perches.
I was very curious about your suspension change, even though I knew it was much more thorough than what I intend to do.
I have a 67 fastback and my use is for street racing but I like to have better driving.
Do you think GW is a good option?
You think that just with the change I'm going to make, I'll have improvements in driving and in the car.
I'm from Portugal and here is not easy to get information and opinions and there are few American cars here, let alone who knows how to work on them. If you could help me I would be grateful
Understanding your situation you can’t get parts as easily or cheaply as us. So, one of the best things you can do is lower the upper control arms one inch or 25mm. This one modification is huge. Another important change is alignment. Stock specs just plain suck. You need some caster like at least 2 or 3 degrees of positive caster and about a half degree negative camber. Both of these are easy and cheap. Caster adjustment on your car is done by adjusting the strut. However there is no reason why you can’t use shims like the 65/66 car to obtain even more caster. Where you’re going to start to spend money is for a bigger front sway bar and shocks. Sway bar not so much but decent shock are going to be a bigger investment.
As long as the suspension components are in good shape you’ll have a good handling car. Of course you’ll need to stiffen up the unibody. Get the export brace and Monte Carlo bar. As you’ve probably read my previous post I have tubular control arms. Yes it makes a difference but on the street it’s really going to add more to how the car feels, it’s going to feel a lot more precise and modern. If you’re limited to what you buy, go for roller spring perches and adjustable struts.
My 67 coupe with the GW front end handles great. It has been years since it has even had an engine in it, so I can't really say how it compares to how it was setup before, or which parts make the biggest difference. I did just order the SoT coilover system for my 65, but I wont be able to compare those for a couple years I would imagine. I am looking forward to not compressing springs for that setup.
Over all though, very pleased with the GW setup, and I still haven't found the perfect springs as it is riding too high in front. Though also note that along with the GW setup, there are the Open Tracker Racing roller spring perches, not the rubber stock style. I have those as well, but again, can't compare since it was sitting so long. All together though, it's a great setup.
Ditto the OP's comments. I installed the GW +3 front suspension in my ’68 390 along with Open Tracker's 1⅛" sway bar and spring perch. The rear got GW's bushing kit with Open Tracker’s 4½ leaf springs. Plus GW's sub-frame connectors and Bilsteins from SoT. It was a real improvement in both ride and handling.
As @Huskinhano has said about replacing the rubber in the front suspension with heim-joints, etc., the front end actually went up even with the lower UCA mounting. I cut a half coil off the springs (don’t know what they are, came with the car, but they are 0.62" dia).
It’s somewhat interesting to learn about the paint/powder coat quality and installation complexity but the reason you spend all that cash is to improve handling. Frankly, I’d rather know if the investment was worth it. Waiting a few years won’t tell anyone much. And I think anyone spending that much money on GW is already too biased to be objective (sorry). Has anyone ever seen an independent review and comparison to stock (including other aftermarket vendors besides GW) that details the best value and performance gain? Not saying I don’t believe that aftermarket handling parts won’t help but what’s necessary and the best value?
People are sharing their experiences. Believe what you want.
Here are my experiences. The original geometry induces under steer.
The minimum fix is the Shelby drop. From there you can install adjustable strut rods and roller spring perches. Stiffer springs sway bars, shocks...
Geometry corrected tubular a arms can be an improvement since it allows more of a upper arm drop than the Shelby mod. This allows for more camber gain. The GW +3 or the SoT arms allow for more caster.
You can get good improvements with several manufacturers.
GW, SoT, Opentracker, hotchkis, all offer improvements.
I have mostly GW stuff. But it’s not the only path to nirvana.
Shocks matter more than many realize....
What ever drop GW Tells you to do is likely optimal for their arms.
If you are running the GW arms with the proper drop, IME that is the single biggest gain from one thing.
From my experience, the old mustangs like soft bump and stiff rebound.
The Bilsteins are the “cheapest” good shock. I like their sport version.
Viking makes reasonably priced double adjustable shocks that opentracker sells.
Hotchkis sells some trick Fox shocks that are pricey.
And if you have unlimited money you can get Penske shocks that Cobra Automotive sells.
For spirited street driving, I would go with the bilsteins. Better shocks are likely to cost way more.
Like several of us here, I don’t have a single rubber bushing in the suspension. While I’m not sure roller spring perches and strut rods make the car faster, it “feels” more supple and responsive.
In order of importance (with what I have personally done) I would rank mods in this order:
Shelby drop/tubular arms
Springs/sway bar/ shocks
Biggest sticky tires you can run
Strut rod
Spring perch
Rear springs with del alum bushings
Tubular lower arm with spherical bearing
OMG Jsams, I had NO idea there was an 'off the shelf' Fox shock available for our classic mustangs!! Thank you SO much for enlightening me, because as a SF Bay Area motocross and mountain bike guy I've still got a 'connection' to the Fox suspension that's been making everything bounce better since I was a kid mx racer!!
You NAILED my needs to a 'T'; monotube DIGRESSIVE valving! That means it can be firm cornering (slow piston speeds) but if you hit a sharp bump (faster piston speed), the shock valving 'knows' and softens up. It's the best of both worlds. Who's tried these, guys?? Somebody review these please...
Single adjustable valving from soft street to stiff race? Not clear if that single adjustment is rebound or compression or a little of BOTH? But I've got faith it's a damn good 'made in USA' product. All that for only $180 per shock? That's not pricey that's a bargain. Why isn't EVERYONE running those? In the past the Fox Shox company has been the kinda place you could bring your shock back to, and for a small fee they'd rebuild and/or revalve the shock to your liking if your needs didn't meet the range of production.
Pics attached below, dang link didn't work.
The only thing better, in my vivid imagination, would have been to have the shock body flipped upside-down, removing it's weight from the moving (unsprung) part of the suspension, and a reservoir, on a ss hose, at the top that can expand the oil/nitrogen capacity for even greater performance and valving adjustability. The only ones close would be $1,500 JRI, Penske, etc.
I'm all roller everything too. Roller spring perches etc., so this is my missing link. Wish they had heim instead of poly bushings but maybe that's ok... Thanks. Love to hear of ANYONE trying these?
Although their focus is building bars for private label these days, they have prototyping ability, so they
can build a one-off. They like to work off completed blueprints, but they accepted my crude drawing....
(which I just noticed is missing a few dimension numbers)
I built the rest of the hardware in my shop. Nobody makes a front bar for 48-52 F-1's.
I'm gonna guess that the Falcon coilover pic is NOT the bluetooth version, because of the manual damping clicker on the end. I'd think the BT version would have a servo and harness to external controller?
Oh, and before I get TOO excited about that Hotchkis Fox Shox, this just crossed my mind; the other big advantage of a monotube shock besides the larger piston, is the floating oil/nitrogen divider thingy that nearly eliminates fading by keeping the oil and nitro separate. On a short body shock like for our vm's, they sometimes don't have the travel or room inside for a divider, so they just let 'em mix and call it an 'emulsion' monotube - a serious DISADVANTAGE, in my book. Major aeration of the oil! They could easily overcome this with an external reservoir that houses a tiny bit of the main oil, the floating divider and gas on the other side. But then they should flip this design over so the major weight doesn't move.
Before I take the plunge I'll find out, and also see what's up with that bluetooth Falcon coilover, which, just by the look of it, I'm sure it'll be a $1,000 shock or close to it.
See attached Falcon Monotube floating divider piston, where the gas would be pressurized on top via shraeder valve, sealed oil beneath, then piston and rod below (not visible) in the oil:
Those Falcon Shocks look like the real deal fo sho just like Fox! If they can make 'em for our cars, with the inside hard anodized like the Fox, they ought to be sweet. Expensive, but sweet.
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