Best way to replace pink resistor wire? - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-11-2017, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Best way to replace pink resistor wire?

I've got the dash harness out of my wife's 65 GT fastback w/o tach. The firewall connector with the pink resistor wire in it was bad so I got a new one from Midlife. Everything's spliced in but what do I do about the resistor wire? As I understand its supposed to have a certain resistance but its not really spliceable/solderable?

So if I ordered a new one is the best thing to do just to plug it in at the ignition and then run it through the firewall. Cut the corresponding "normal" wire from the engine side of the connector and plug them together?

Any better ideas?

Lance

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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-11-2017, 08:14 PM
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you can use a small ice pick type tool to get the firewall end of the pink wire (connector) to pull out of the plug. from there its a breeze.

Z

PS a new one might come with the appropriate firewall end on it already
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-11-2017, 11:24 PM
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I'm pretty sure just a plain length of 14awg primary wire with a male bullet on each end is all that's needed for '65-66. Plugs in at the ignition switch pigtail and into the firewall plug.

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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-11-2017, 11:43 PM
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All of the replacement resistor wires I have seen had connectors already attached at both ends. However, I was once faced with a damaged pink wire on a then-irreplaceable 68 factory tach car. I cut out the damaged portion and spliced it with a mechanically crimped sleeve, and covered it with shrinktube. Last I heard it had lasted many years without incident. I don't think losing an inch of wire had a significant effect on voltage.
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-12-2017, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodchuck View Post
I'm pretty sure just a plain length of 14awg primary wire with a male bullet on each end is all that's needed for '65-66. Plugs in at the ignition switch pigtail and into the firewall plug.
I could be off base, but I think the OP was wanting another resistor wire to be installed, not a regular type wire replacement.

Z
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-12-2017, 12:36 PM
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You can buy a new one from NPD for $19.95. Part #12250-1 (fits '65-68).


NOTE: It plugs in at both ends. Route it just like the original.
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-12-2017, 02:15 PM
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It could just be a faulty memory but I seem to recall seeing on a few cars, the wiring in a '66 not having a regular male pug end on the firewall end of the resistor wire. I remember it going straight into the firewall plug with no separate connector. Could've been the work of an OP, but it looked factory.

I'd like to hear from midlife on that, otherwise I've got to rummage around for my stash of roasted underdash wiring harnesses to see .

Z
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Last edited by zray; 08-12-2017 at 02:17 PM.
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-12-2017, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zray View Post
It could just be a faulty memory but I seem to recall seeing on a few cars, the wiring in a '66 not having a regular male pug end on the firewall end of the resistor wire. I remember it going straight into the firewall plug with no separate connector. Could've been the work of an OP, but it looked factory.

I'd like to hear from midlife on that, otherwise I've got to rummage around for my stash of roasted underdash wiring harnesses to see .

Z
Z-
I thought the same thing so went to my Shop Manual wiring diagram. It appears that it (16A) only plugs into the female bullet connector on the Ignition Switch side. The opposite end appears to be hard wired into the plug assembly (14401)
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-12-2017, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhutt View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by zray View Post
It could just be a faulty memory but I seem to recall seeing on a few cars, the wiring in a '66 not having a regular male pug end on the firewall end of the resistor wire. I remember it going straight into the firewall plug with no separate connector. Could've been the work of an OP, but it looked factory.

I'd like to hear from midlife on that, otherwise I've got to rummage around for my stash of roasted underdash wiring harnesses to see .

Z
Z-
I thought the same thing so went to my Shop Manual wiring diagram. It appears that it (16A) only plugs into the female bullet connector on the Ignition Switch side. The opposite end appears to be hard wired into the plug assembly (14401)
On my 65 it goes straight into the connector. The other end at the ignition is a plug. So I'm looking for a fix on how to replace it at the connector side. Ideas?

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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-12-2017, 05:50 PM
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If you can't secure it directly into the connector, Is it possible to snip the existing wire just long enough (2-3" from connector) and crimp on a female bullet, making it possible to plug in both ends of the new resistor wire?


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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-12-2017, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lasmith03 View Post
On my 65 it goes straight into the connector. The other end at the ignition is a plug. So I'm looking for a fix on how to replace it at the connector side. Ideas?
It will go in to the ENGINE COMPARTMENT side of the connector, which is a female bullet. IIRC, if you pull the INTERIOR side of the connector and remove the wire and the terminal, and cut a hole in the plug you can connect the new wire.

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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-14-2017, 05:23 PM
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This is Midlife. You can mechanically splice the pink resistor wire and cover the splice with heat shrink. You just can't solder the wire, as it is nichrome and that requires silver-solder, a special type of soldering and technique; jewelers know how to do this. Otherwise, a simple butt-splice is more than sufficient. You can use the NPD replacement, and simply butt-splice a female bullet connector on the pigtail from the firewall connector as above and then plug in the aftermarket piece.

Hope this helps.
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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-14-2017, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Midlife View Post
This is Midlife. You can mechanically splice the pink resistor wire and cover the splice with heat shrink. You just can't solder the wire, as it is nichrome and that requires silver-solder, a special type of soldering and technique; jewelers know how to do this. Otherwise, a simple butt-splice is more than sufficient. You can use the NPD replacement, and simply butt-splice a female bullet connector on the pigtail from the firewall connector as above and then plug in the aftermarket piece.

Hope this helps.
Wouldn't that be splicing a resistor wire to a resistor wire and thus increasing the voltage drop?

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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-14-2017, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lasmith03 View Post
Wouldn't that be splicing a resistor wire to a resistor wire and thus increasing the voltage drop?
Only in theory . The length of the splice is not long enough to effect a significant voltage drop. Your coil won't know the difference.

Z
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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-14-2017, 10:28 PM
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