68 gauge issues - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-09-2017, 02:42 AM Thread Starter
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68 gauge issues

I'm having a problem with all of my gauges the oil gauge (after market) looks like it works as far as i know but the gas jumps to over full every time it gets power the alternator charge gauge ive never seen move so i'm assuming its not working either ive used a test light on the wires for the gas and temp and they give a solid light it doesn't pulse is it my instrument voltage regulator? Any help would be appreciated!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-09-2017, 03:10 AM Thread Starter
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And there is this wire in my engine bay that is being jumped i have no idea what its for or if it could be causing the issue
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-09-2017, 06:46 AM
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A bad IVR will cause the gauges to max out. It will also act bad if it's not grounded.
http://www.thecurb.us/viewtopic.php?t=2037
Wihout more detail (wire color codes) I would guess that's the NSS (neutral safety switch) being jumped.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-09-2017, 07:55 AM
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Is that connector at firewall being jumped a 4 pin connector? Is your car now a manual shift?
As said above for manual cars, there was a factory "jumper loop" there. Neutral safety bypass. No jumper for car with automatics.

I'm gonna guess your backup lights do not work as looks like no wire harness present for them.

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Last edited by sixtysevenGTconv; 09-09-2017 at 07:58 AM.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-09-2017, 08:05 AM
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I'm going to guess that the aftermarket oil pressure gauge uses 12 V to work and that whomever installed it applied 12V to the gauge power feed for the cluster. The factory gauges require a 5V supply, which would explain why your fuel gauge pegs when power is applied. The charge gauge is separate from the oil, temp and fuel gauges and works differently.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-09-2017, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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Is that connector at firewall being jumped a 4 pin connector? Is your car now a manual shift?
As said above for manual cars, there was a factory "jumper loop" there. Neutral safety bypass. No jumper for car with automatics.

I'm gonna guess your backup lights do not work as looks like no wire harness present for them.
Yes it is a 4 pin connector but no i have a auto trans and the backup lights do not work. I do have this plug that looks like it would be able to plug into the connector being jumped if only it could reach
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-09-2017, 12:47 PM
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Yes it is a 4 pin connector but no i have a auto trans and the backup lights do not work. I do have this plug that looks like it would be able to plug into the connector being jumped if only it could reach
So thinking you have an automatic, and 4 pin conn jumper-ed, safety bypassed, your car would try to start in any gear not just PARK If so now you know way

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-09-2017, 09:41 PM
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The ammeter doesn't run off the IVR like the other gauges, it is wired in a parallel shunt to the battery and alternator output circuit and typically gets all corroded inside and just quits working. Like the rocketman says, a bad IVR or poorly grounded one can affect your gauges, but it will be the fuel, oil and water temp gauges that will ALL mimic the same behavior. If it's just the fuel gauge it could be a short to ground in the reference-side of the gauge circuit.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-10-2017, 03:56 AM Thread Starter
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So thinking you have an automatic, and 4 pin conn jumper-ed, safety bypassed, your car would try to start in any gear not just PARK If so now you know way
Is that second wire i pointed out for my reverse lights?
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-10-2017, 04:04 AM Thread Starter
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The ammeter doesn't run off the IVR like the other gauges, it is wired in a parallel shunt to the battery and alternator output circuit and typically gets all corroded inside and just quits working. Like the rocketman says, a bad IVR or poorly grounded one can affect your gauges, but it will be the fuel, oil and water temp gauges that will ALL mimic the same behavior. If it's just the fuel gauge it could be a short to ground in the reference-side of the gauge circuit.
It is all my gauges that are dead just not oil pressure its after market this is the one i think https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...Term=autometer Ive tested the ground for the IVR and it seems to be a good ground so i think im just going to swing by npd and pick up a new IVR

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-10-2017, 12:42 PM
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You can check the IVR by disconnecting the wire at the sender and reading the voltage on it (one voltmeter lead to the wire that was on the sender, one lead to ground). You should see a pulsing signal that goes between about 3 to 6 volts. You can use the temperature sender or the fuel sender if they are acting the same way - the same voltage source (IVR) feeds both gauges.

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-10-2017, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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You can check the IVR by disconnecting the wire at the sender and reading the voltage on it (one voltmeter lead to the wire that was on the sender, one lead to ground). You should see a pulsing signal that goes between about 3 to 6 volts. You can use the temperature sender or the fuel sender if they are acting the same way - the same voltage source (IVR) feeds both gauges.
I just tested it it does not pulse it stays at around 10.22v

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-11-2017, 03:26 PM
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Then either the cluster is not wired correctly or the IVR is failed. You really should disconnect the gauges until you get this fixed so you don't kill the gauges. You can do that by disconnecting the wires at the senders

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