Negative chamber wedge kit without Arning Drop? - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-13-2017, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Negative chamber wedge kit without Arning Drop?

I bought my 66 coupe with several changes/upgrades. Some of which include 620 springs (I think with 1 inch drop), a heavy front sway bar, and a negative camber wedge. HOWEVER, the Arning Drop was never completed on this car. Just the wedge installed.


I understand the purpose of the wedge kit is to avoid wreaking the ball joints with the drop, but beyond that does the wedge provide any other performance improvement? Maybe a better camber curve at 9/10th of the handling envelope? Any real gain for a street only driven car? Perhaps makes installing larger diameter tires easier?


Just as important, is there any down side to running just the wedge? (Aside of course from the improvement to the chamber curve from the Arning Drop.)


With the current wheels, tires (215/70/14), and front springs I have quite a bit of tire rub on the bottom of the leading edge of the front fender. I am afraid if I do the Drop without different wheels I will really tear up the fender.


Looking for comments from folks who have actually made the mods. (Seems every other post is about completing the Drop, or asking why it hasn't been completed yet.)


So, for now, what is the upside and downside to JUST the wedge installed.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-13-2017, 07:09 PM
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The only purpose of the wedge was to alter the angle of the ball joint so it wouldn't break when the upper control arm was lowered to 1.75" which would put the stock arm into a true negative camber curve. it is not needed on a 1" drop nor will it do a thing except add weight to the stock location. it itself it has no performance enhancement.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-13-2017, 07:28 PM
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What Husk said. Arning drop just improves everything (geometry, camber curve) in the front suspension substantially and the neg. wedge kit would not address any tire rubbing issues that you have currently I don't think. Negative camber may help with the tire issue, or different rims that have more backspace than your current setup.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-13-2017, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you gentlemen.


I guess I will get wheels first, probably the Legendary styled steel ko in 15 x 6 with a tire with a slightly smaller diameter, like say a 215/60/15, or maybe a 205 in either 60 or 65 series. The Drop will have to wait for now.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-13-2017, 09:34 PM
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If you going to shop for new wheels and your staying with a 15" look for a 15x7x4.25 and you can have 225/60/15 squared
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-13-2017, 10:04 PM
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Is the block that installs between the upper control arm and the ball joint angled or is it just a spacer? A long time ago there was a spacer that you installed between the upper arm and ball joint to allow the arm more travel distance. This was to help weight transfer when drag racing. My brother had one installed in a '65 Ranchero with 90/10 shocks (1967 era)that was occassionally drag raced.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-14-2017, 12:12 AM
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Just do some looking at tire options in the 15" size before you commit, there isn't much in the way of performance tires in a 15" size these days, 16" is pretty limited in width but I know a few offer a 225/50/16 with sticky rubber, 17's open up a few options, and basically 18" gets you just about every option you could think of in performance tires, including lots of sizes with more than one aspect ratio. Not a lot available in narrower sizes however.

If I was going old school, it would be the Black D window oval track steelies in a 15x10

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-14-2017, 01:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRUZZAR View Post
Is the block that installs between the upper control arm and the ball joint angled or is it just a spacer? A long time ago there was a spacer that you installed between the upper arm and ball joint to allow the arm more travel distance. This was to help weight transfer when drag racing. My brother had one installed in a '65 Ranchero with 90/10 shocks (1967 era)that was occassionally drag raced.
there is reason it is called a wedge, the spacer is angled. your best bet is to remove it. it will save on ball joints, if you are not going to lower the control arm pivot point. personally i would remove it anyway and just do the one inch drop. the wedge puts stress on the control arm where it wasnt meant to be, and that can cause the arm to fail.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-14-2017, 07:36 AM
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The wedge kit is a very poor fix for ball joint angle on a radically dropped upper control arm and is no longer recommended. You would be much better off removing them and doing the standard 1" drop. I seem to recall some safety concerns with the wedges and running them without the drop could possibly cause a ball joint bind when the suspension is extended.


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