68 fuel tank install - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-20-2018, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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68 fuel tank install

Is replacing my fuel tank on my 68 coupe a fairly easy job? Thanks
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-20-2018, 11:01 AM
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Very straight forward to remove and replace. Here is a video on CJPP showing the entire process.

https://youtu.be/lI_MWC1bRiU
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-20-2018, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by SunnDogg View Post
Very straight forward to remove and replace. Here is a video on CJPP showing the entire process.
The major thing wrong with that demonstration video is that he doesn't use the factory required amount/thickness of rope caulk around the perimeter of the tank. He should have used three full strands to meet specification and ensure no vapor leaks. He didn't read the shop manual well enough.

I reconfigured a base '68 coupe a little bit...
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-20-2018, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by bagwellb View Post
Is replacing my fuel tank on my 68 coupe a fairly easy job? Thanks
As said, straight forward.
Get some 3M caulking strip, I know local at auto parts stores like AutoZone. Tank sits on this.
Consider looking at sending unit fuel "sock" on the gauge sending unit. Depending on how old, replace unit.
New filler neck hose & gasket.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-20-2018, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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I bought the fuel tank kit at a great price from CJ's. Thanks for all the info guys.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-20-2018, 01:49 PM
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The difficult part is draining all the gas out of the old tank.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-20-2018, 02:33 PM
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The difficult part is draining all the gas out of the old tank.
Only difficult if your tank doesnt have a drain. My original 1968 tank has the drain.

Paul

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-20-2018, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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mine does also which will help. Thanks
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-20-2018, 03:15 PM
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Thanks for posting this. I have to remove my fuel tank because there is a leak around the sending unit. I bet that the screwdriver/hammer step was missed.

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-21-2018, 10:12 AM
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Adding on to sixtysevenGTconv comments regarding possibly replacing fuel sender. I just did that on my 66FB. After replacing it, engine ran for a couple of minutes then stalled. Was not getting any fuel. Back tracked problem to fuel sender and had to pull it again. Found the sock was pressed on so tight it was blocking the inlet tube. So if you do replace sender, check sock position before installing.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-22-2018, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
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Thanks for posting this. I have to remove my fuel tank because there is a leak around the sending unit. I bet that the screwdriver/hammer step was missed.

?
I resealed the sending unit with the tank installed... Very easy.


Note: Use petrolatum (or pure Vaseline) to hold the gasket in place as you re-install.

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-22-2018, 08:53 AM
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Be sure to use only rope caulk between the tank and body- DO NOT USE SILICONE OR URETHANE! Should you ever need to remove the tank again, your first step will be to drag out the sawzall- ask me how I know! BTW- if any of you ever did this, and you were in the Eastern Iowa area.... you owe me 3 blades and about 2 hours worth of shop time!
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-22-2018, 10:07 AM
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?
I resealed the sending unit with the tank installed... Very easy.


Note: Use petrolatum (or pure Vaseline) to hold the gasket in place as you re-install.
So the metal piece was not hammered in at all. I hammered it in with a screwdriver like the video said. I reinstalled the tank and put some gas in it. Leaked worse than before
I'm just going to RTV silicone the **** out of the sending unit area. Its not a permanent gas tank anyway. Just need it to not leak and be drive-able around town etc. I just have the tank bolted to the trunk floor. No sealant. Going to use a fuel cell in the future.

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2005 Ram SRT10 with T56 Conversion and many other mods
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1973 Lincoln Mark IV- triple black
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-22-2018, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Viperpete View Post
So the metal piece was not hammered in at all. I hammered it in with a screwdriver like the video said. I reinstalled the tank and put some gas in it. Leaked worse than before
I'm just going to RTV silicone the **** out of the sending unit area. Its not a permanent gas tank anyway. Just need it to not leak and be drive-able around town etc. I just have the tank bolted to the trunk floor. No sealant. Going to use a fuel cell in the future.
RTV is not approved for fuel- it'll eat right through it and probably leak worse than before. Look close at your retainer ring and the tank slots. The ring has to be clocked into place with a hammer and chisel/screwdriver to the point where the dimples line up. Not far enough, it'll leak; too far, it'll leak. Once you look closely it'll make sense. Often times after rotating the ring into place it's a good idea to make sure it's centered too- that way you get equal pressure all the way around. Like Daisy mentioned- use a lubricant on the seal so it doesn't bunch up or squeeze out of place.

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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-22-2018, 11:02 AM
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RTV is not approved for fuel- it'll eat right through it and probably leak worse than before. Look close at your retainer ring and the tank slots. The ring has to be clocked into place with a hammer and chisel/screwdriver to the point where the dimples line up. Not far enough, it'll leak; too far, it'll leak. Once you look closely it'll make sense. Often times after rotating the ring into place it's a good idea to make sure it's centered too- that way you get equal pressure all the way around. Like Daisy mentioned- use a lubricant on the seal so it doesn't bunch up or squeeze out of place.
Ok. I'll pull the tank again and check it out.

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2005 Ram SRT10 with T56 Conversion and many other mods
2005 Mustang GT 5 speed- wife's daily
2016 Nissan Maxima SR - wife's other daily
1973 Lincoln Mark IV- triple black
1999 Dodge Avenger
1969 Mustang Fastback
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