Best Headlight Switch? - Page 3 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #31 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-07-2018, 07:09 AM
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Once in blue moon I have found a bad headlight bulb drawing to much current causing this problem as well.
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post #32 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-15-2018, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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So an update. After ordering a new hl switch I put it in the and lights are still blinking/tripping. Pulled both headlights, thinking I could narrow down the issue. Turns out the passenger side bulb(although it still works) is shorted out. It's all black around the plug. Off to get a new bulb...

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post #33 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-15-2018, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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Holy crap, the headlight switch is a pain in the ***. And the reproduction spacer is totally different than stock. Finally had to take out the gauges to get it in.

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post #34 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-15-2018, 10:48 PM
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To bad I just noticed this post I have an extra NOS 1969 Ford Mustang Headlight Switch C9ZB-11652-C SW-817.

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post #35 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-16-2018, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordonr View Post
Once in blue moon I have found a bad headlight bulb drawing to much current causing this problem as well.
that was my blue moon I guess.

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post #36 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-16-2018, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkutz View Post
Holy crap, the headlight switch is a pain in the ***. And the reproduction spacer is totally different than stock. Finally had to take out the gauges to get it in.
So, which hl switch did you end up buying?

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post #37 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-16-2018, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenash View Post
Yeah, the relay conversion takes the amp load of the switch through the use of relays. The load for the headlight is split between Hi & Lo and controlled through two relays, one for each ckt. Ron Francis has a kit with instructions, as well as others. There are a number of diagrams around on this subject, if you want to make your own kit.
The other alternative, mentioned in an earlier post, is to use the heavier switch from the 69 (?) and later mustangs.
I chose to go the relay route before my OEM switch went bad. Doing this, resulted in my OEM Hd lights being brighter since power is supplied directly from the battery through the rely(s).
Using the relay should not be necessary. These headlight switches worked fine for years without the need for relays if you are using regular headlights. If you have lights that draw more, then yes, a relay is a must. You may have a short, poor ground, bad harness connector or just a lot of resistance in the wiring such as corroded terminals. You may not even need a new switch. It is doing what it was designed to do. You could put a new one in and not solve the problem.

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post #38 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 11:57 PM
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After just discovering my headlight switch is bad, I found this post. Its helpful, but also a little confusing so I called NPD to talk with sales and find out which one I should buy as I was a little confused from the info in this thread and the previous links showed more than one item.

The two that were suggested by Rick are these ones (one being the Motorcraft version and the other being the Cougar version I think);
Our 11654-5 is SW-1226, which has been obsolete for almost 10 years now.

Our 11654-6 is SW-1245, which has been obsolete for almost 10 years as well.

The guy who took my call was super helpful, but asked what style I had - so I emailed a photo (attached), and he matched it to this $16 part and said its the one that will fit;

https://www.npdlink.com/product/swit...%3D0%26year%3D

I ordered it and its on the way - but I want to verify this is indeed the one I should install? It looks the same as the one I have (which has less than 1000 miles on it and even less with lights on, and yet failed already). I've read that the motorcraft version is the only way to go, but it does have a different spacer style that goes behind the dash. So let me know if the Motorcraft one would actually fit my car and current bezel and knob, or if I do indeed need this cheaper version? I don't want to replace it again anytime soon.

Photo of original is attached - replacement looks the same (incase the link doesn't work)
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post #39 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 01:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwinz View Post
After just discovering my headlight switch is bad, I found this post. Its helpful, but also a little confusing so I called NPD to talk with sales and find out which one I should buy as I was a little confused from the info in this thread and the previous links showed more than one item.

The two that were suggested by Rick are these ones (one being the Motorcraft version and the other being the Cougar version I think);
Our 11654-5 is SW-1226, which has been obsolete for almost 10 years now.

Our 11654-6 is SW-1245, which has been obsolete for almost 10 years as well.

The guy who took my call was super helpful, but asked what style I had - so I emailed a photo (attached), and he matched it to this $16 part and said its the one that will fit;

https://www.npdlink.com/product/swit...%3D0%26year%3D

I ordered it and its on the way - but I want to verify this is indeed the one I should install? It looks the same as the one I have (which has less than 1000 miles on it and even less with lights on, and yet failed already). I've read that the motorcraft version is the only way to go, but it does have a different spacer style that goes behind the dash. So let me know if the Motorcraft one would actually fit my car and current bezel and knob, or if I do indeed need this cheaper version? I don't want to replace it again anytime soon.

Photo of original is attached - replacement looks the same (incase the link doesn't work)

MOTORCRAFT SW441 is what I used in my 66, you don't say what you're installing it in.
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post #40 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 02:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64-1/2 first.... 66 now View Post
MOTORCRAFT SW441 is what I used in my 66, you don't say what you're installing it in.
I have a 65. The number you just provided SW441 really it helps. A quick google search and it brings up a link for Amazon with it for $55.78, and CJ Pony for $27 (but they do now charge a lot for shipping). Looks like a reproduction but it looks the same. This number does not come up on NPD - but again it looks the same. Perhaps those that know the Motorcraft is the one to use and chime in and let me know what model number to search? Or if anyone has installed the one I have ordered from NPD - is it ok? $16 would make me think it must be one of the junk ones?
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post #41 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 09:36 AM
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If you have anything other than factory style non-halogen sealed beam lamps, they will trip the circuit breaker. You may get lucky, but most likely not.

Can't help with the switch part # as I have a 71, but I just installed a relay pack along with the Cibie/Valeo housings that take an H-4 bulb. Easily the best $120 I've ever spent on my car. The light spread is more like a new car and I can actually enjoy driving at night again.

Here's the relay pack I bought. Shows as N/A, but you get the idea was about $20. You can spend alot more, but I doubt it would be worth it. Relays are a standard type, which I'll eventually replace with some Omrons.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and the headlamp housings

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PAIR-OF...item5d7a74b90e

I bought regular 'ol Hella H4 bulbs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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post #42 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 10:43 AM
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As every other post suggests, the important thing is not which switch to buy. But that you should absolutely put in a relay kit. The relay will make it a moot point which headlight switch you purchase as no current to speak of will be going thru the switch. The benfits to having a rely are well known, but increased safety for the wiring and more light output are the two most important aspects.

Daniel Stern has the best quality relay kits.

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post #43 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 12:38 PM
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well, at this time my lighting system is purely stock. However I was intending to install the relays to the light system today. My light switch didn't blow - it simply seems to not engage the park lights or the tail lights at the middle out point, or the taillights at the fully out point. Headlights and brake lights work fine. It lead me to chase (a long frustrating chase my own tail kind of chase) an issue and it came back to checking the continuity of the headlight switch and realizing if I fiddled with it (pushing slightly in and out) my lights all worked. I now strongly suggest using a mirror in front or back of the car when working by yourself to check lighting!

Anyway, I have been considering the lighting update - so Ill go ahead and just do it now. That way I'll have no concerns with the new switch, and I'll have better lighting. I have relays and wiring etc here, but now I'll just go ahead and install the entire set up to run H4 lights. It's time.

Thanks fellas
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post #44 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by kiwinz View Post
"......I have relays and wiring etc here, but now I'll just go ahead and install the entire set up to run H4 lights. It's time.

Thanks fellas

if you don't already have the H-4 lenses, I'd suggest taking a serious look at the Cibie lenes (DS has them). They have the best light pattern of any H-4 lens I've seen, and also have a period correct convex curve of the lens. Many H-4 kits come with a flat lens, which is less than flattering in a classic car.



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post #45 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Hemikiller View Post
If you have anything other than factory style non-halogen sealed beam lamps, they will trip the circuit breaker. You may get lucky, but most likely not.

Can't help with the switch part # as I have a 71, but I just installed a relay pack along with the Cibie/Valeo housings that take an H-4 bulb. Easily the best $120 I've ever spent on my car. The light spread is more like a new car and I can actually enjoy driving at night again.

Here's the relay pack I bought. Shows as N/A, but you get the idea was about $20. You can spend alot more, but I doubt it would be worth it. Relays are a standard type, which I'll eventually replace with some Omrons.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and the headlamp housings

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PAIR-OF...item5d7a74b90e

I bought regular 'ol Hella H4 bulbs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hemikiller, did you change your park lights also? Looking at the wiring harnesses and seeing some for 4 headlights, makes me think about upgrading the wiring to my park lights and installing new bulbs in there. Its the one part of the car that still has the old wiring and it definitely needs updating (the wires to the old park light bulb holder).

Anyone upgraded these? If so, what bulb type? I know I can do an led upgrade here but they still use the same bulb holder type.
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