Body filler on my floor supports? - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-12-2018, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Body filler on my floor supports?

I did bang out the significant imperfections but at best it is an imperfect and uneven surface.

I have my new core support installed(if you've been keeping up with me) and it is all in new epoxy primer from the core support to back beyond the transmission cross member which, of course, includes the floor supports. After a LOT of work, everything is basically straight and smooth except for my hammered out floor supports. It is mostly the bottom that would need to have a small layer of fill to get them completely straight.

Should I just do it? Now would be the time. I'm kind of leaning toward doing it because it will likely always bug me if I don't.


65 2+2, 331, C4 presently apart for complete a restore
1979 Ford F150 custom, 302, C4, AC, tilt wheel, main transportation

Last edited by macstang; 04-12-2018 at 03:34 PM.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-12-2018, 04:05 PM
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won't hurt anything to do it.. but they'll probably crack right out the first time someone jacks it up in that area.. Now's the time though, right?

Working on old cars teaches us patience... and every curse word imaginable!
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-12-2018, 06:38 PM
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I personally wouldn't use filler on them, as mentioned it'll crack off. If it falls off then you have a larger area of less protected metal. Better off leaving good enough be and prime and paint/undercoat as you would if they were perfect.

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-12-2018, 07:09 PM
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I vote for doing it. I know all about, in hind-site, wishing I had fixed something like that when I was there. And now it bugs me.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-12-2018, 07:32 PM
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After a LOT of work, everything is basically straight and smooth except for my hammered out floor supports. It is mostly the bottom that would need to have a small layer of fill to get them completely straight.

Should I just do it? Now would be the time. I'm kind of leaning toward doing it because it will likely always bug me if I don't.
I wouldn't waste time with ANY filler in that area maybe a steel epoxy would last longer. Sooner or later with my luck lately it would fail before it was out of the driveway.

Have you considered welding in a piece of 1/16" - 1/8" plate the full length of the bottom? Not a box in just covering up the bottom.

Bob

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-12-2018, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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It looks like most all of my damage has been from people jacking on these or parking the car up on them using jack stands.

I'm tempted to have some vinyl lettering cut out that says "NO JACKS HERE" and stick it on the sides of these things. Most likely from now on though I will be present if any lifts or jacks are used on my car. In fact, I now demand it or I don't take my car to that place.

I have considered using steel plate on the bottoms. I think the relatively thin filler I will need to smooth these things out will hold. Its going on an epoxy base and I will spray epoxy over it. If it tries to flake off, I will grind it down and weld on the plate. I think I'mam going to have NO JACKS lettering in silver done and stick on these fracken things, LOL.


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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-12-2018, 08:51 PM
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I think the relatively thin filler I will need to smooth these things out will hold. Its going on an epoxy base and I will spray epoxy over it. If it tries to flake off, I will grind it down and weld on the plate. .
The epoxy and filler you put on there will hold up great....until someone, sometime, somewhere sticks a jack or jack stand under there. Then it won't be so pretty. If I came across a car to buy and peeked under there ad saw any filler on a frame rail, I am out of there!! I'd rather see the dents

So my vote is leave it or plate it.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-12-2018, 09:44 PM
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I like the idea of reinforcing plate on the underside of the floor support. My floor supports have the familiar jack abuse. While I am repairing the floor boards I am thinking of plating the bottoms. Would you drill holes in the plate and then plug weld it to the bottom of the floor support, weld the perimeter, both or something else?

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-12-2018, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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If I wind up plating it I will do both the plug welds and continual overlapping spot weld the sides. I think it is too thin to hold a continuous seam weld on it. You might be able to stitch it in inch or so long sections with inch gaps and then go back and stitch the gaps. Even welding a plate on the bottom I wouldn't trust it to be strong enough to hold jacks. The walls are thin but being vertical, maybe they won't have such a tendency to collapse if something like 1/8th plate is on the bottom. On mine, I had to take a punch down the bottom edges on both sides and knock them back in line where they had bulged out.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-13-2018, 09:01 AM
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I'd like to hear from anyone that has actually done this, and how well it's held up. I would think that properly prepared metal with THIN layer would last a long time, just like on any other panel. Cheers, Jack

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-13-2018, 09:52 AM
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You do realize that we're supposed jack the car up along the pinch weld. Well, that is IF it is healthy enough to do. You won't be the first doing body work underneath, nor the last. It is handy to have two 6" long 2 X 4 blocks with a slot cut into them to put on the jack when lifting along the pinch weld.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-16-2018, 09:21 AM
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I'd like to hear from anyone that has actually done this, and how well it's held up. I would think that properly prepared metal with THIN layer would last a long time, just like on any other panel. Cheers, Jack
I haven't done this myself I've seen several cars where it has been done but they were trailer queen restomods only taken to shows & short runs not concours show cars.

A thin layer of steel epoxy might work for awhile. I would be more concerned with rail flex from driving it hard than a jack you can always put a long notched out 2x4 on the jack to distribute weight.

After applying the steel epoxy you could spray it with a specialty line-x product they come in all kinds of applications & colors that almost look stock.

Bob

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57 Pontiac Safari 389, 63 Corvette 327, 68 Cougar XR7 302, 68 Camaro RS/SS 327
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-16-2018, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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I guess I am the guinea pig for this. Its done at any rate. I have 3 coats epoxy primer down on the bare metal, a couple of thin layers of Rage gold. I didn't try and make them perfect, just reasonably more straight. I used a small amount of glazing puddy to fill some imperfections in the Rage and it is all sanded baby butt smooth. I also lightly sanded the sides of the supports again and I'm going to re-spray those just for epoxy primer continuity?

Speaking of sanding, I got some 3M sand paper recently and compared to the cheap paper I' ve been using and it was a WOW experience. Good quality sand paper makes this work go a lot better. The paper lasts longer because on the cheap junk, the grit gets knocked off the paper really fast.

I'm going to mask it off and spray 2 or 3 more coats of epoxy over it today and call it done. There won't be any jacking done on these things any more. I will keep an eye on them to see if any of it ever comes loose or cracks. Frankly, I don't think it will but I don't know.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-16-2018, 02:37 PM
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I guess I am the guinea pig for this. Its done at any rate. I have 3 coats epoxy primer down on the bare metal, a couple of thin layers of Rage gold. I didn't try and make them perfect, just reasonably more straight. I used a small amount of glazing puddy to fill some imperfections in the Rage and it is all sanded baby butt smooth. I also lightly sanded the sides of the supports again and I'm going to re-spray those just for epoxy primer continuity?

Speaking of sanding, I got some 3M sand paper recently and compared to the cheap paper I' ve been using and it was a WOW experience. Good quality sand paper makes this work go a lot better. The paper lasts longer because on the cheap junk, the grit gets knocked off the paper really fast.

I'm going to mask it off and spray 2 or 3 more coats of epoxy over it today and call it done. There won't be any jacking done on these things any more. I will keep an eye on them to see if any of it ever comes loose or cracks. Frankly, I don't think it will but I don't know.
Do you have some before and after photos? Or any of the work in progress Would be great to see them. Mine were used as jack points in a previous life and Ive always wondered how people are facing these in their restorations. Structurally they are all fine, but it looks bad. I'd consider doing it and using 'All Metal' filler. Its a little more time consuming to sand, but stronger.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-16-2018, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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What I did

1. sliced open the floor pan from the top and hammered on it from inside the car to try and get it into reasonable shape. I cut the spot welds and then cut out on top of the spot weld lines so that it wouldn't leave a seam on bottom of the pan. After I got tired hammering on it, I laid it back down, re welded the spot welds and then seam welded the whole cut out. I cut 3 sides and left the front attached.

2. using various hammer banging tools I knocked the bulges in as straight as I could get them to reshape the corners and try and get them back to something close to right angles.

3. after banging from the inside, I had all kinds of high and low spots on the floor supports so I went along the bottom and peened in all the high spots that prior banging created

4. sand to metal, primed, filled and primed today

This is right before today's priming. I was too tired to think to take an after I primed it shot.



I don't have a before anything shot of these but there wasn't any place on the sides and bottom that was really straight when I started. It turned out to be a lot more work than I expected because I refused to just quit. It might have been better in the long run to just replace them with new metal but I didn't.

The wankered up corner where the support meets the cross member is me, many moons ago, learning not very well how to put in a floor pan. I paid all my attention to the top or inside the car and not so much what the bottom of the car was going to look like. I may get a crazy bee and fix that(or not).
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65 2+2, 331, C4 presently apart for complete a restore
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Last edited by macstang; 04-16-2018 at 05:40 PM.
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