So last weekend I did the Shelby drop. Went pretty well and only had a chance to take it in for an alignment today, where I got the bad news - Ball joint is binding.
I only dropped it 1 inch, so I was surprised to hear that. Car does sit real low. It’s got new Bilsteins and Drake c5zz-5310-pr progressive rate springs ( slight lowering ) with my 205/75r14s just slightly tucking under the wheel well.
Car is at the shop while I’m contemplating what to do, but it got me thinking:
Could the previous owner have done this already and welded or filled in the holes? This would make my new location a total of 2 inches from the stick UCA holes which would definitely cause a bind.
I took a pic on the passenger side as I was doing the work. In the circled part it kind of looks like maybe there was a hole that was filled in. You have to really zoom in
In any case can you experts confirm the following:
1. Would a 1” drop cause a bind in the BJ?
2. Does anyone have measurements for stock UCA holes from the bottom or top of the frame so I can verify.
3. Is that 3rd hole in the middle of what I thought is the stock location supposed to be there? Maybe another one of the POs surprises
Yup, it sat low, but i went it and replaced the spring perches, shocks and springs. The springs were in good shape and are the same size as the new ones I got.
Lowering springs alone wouldn't cause it to sit that low?
Thanks. I did not, but I agree with you. I didn't want to just go out and get it without understanding why I need it. Everything I've read seems to point that it shouldn't be necessary for a 1" drop, which is what I did. Now I'm assuming that all this is for cars with the original 66 brake spindles. Mine has 68 (or something else) spindles, which I believe may be different enough to cause the binding problem.
I noticed you also had 68 brake spindles and that you have installed the negative wedge kit. Did you try it without the wedge first and experience the same issues as me?
Also, I'm debating between the wedge kit or just dropping 300 more on the global west UCAs with joint already angled correctly.
That which you have circled in red is a factory spot weld. There are at least 2 layers and maybe 3 layers of metal all spotwelded together in the shock tower. The center hole is also factory- maybe a line-up hole.
I have a '65 with Granada spindles, 620# lowering springs and the Shelby drop. I do not have UBJ binding problems
That which you have circled in red is a factory spot weld. There are at least 2 layers and maybe 3 layers of metal all spotwelded together in the shock tower. The center hole is also factory- maybe a line-up hole. I have a '65 with Granada spindles, 620# lowering springs and the Shelby drop. I do not have UBJ binding problems
What you circled matches the spot welds else where to me. In stock mounting the upper arm shaft will be higher then the upper ball joint. The Arning drop will put the shaft about equal to the upper ball joint. When you ball joints were binding, was the control arm on the bump stop? I’m thinking something is up with your springs and you’re sitting on the bump stops which are worn out allowing the ball joints to bind
Pretty reputable owner of a highly rated alignment shop and owner of a classic mustang himself. He is active on two of the major mustang clubs here (possibly chairman of one). He is very familiar with the cars and does for a lot of classic mustangs.
He's an extremely nice guy, and spent quite a bit of time talking to me about the car. I couldn't see the BJ however.
I don't think he would be trying to fleece me, although on the other hand I can never tell if it's the classic mechanic "fear tactic" for a problem that may not be as dire as it actually is.
I get the car back next week and will look at it in more detail, because I don't want to just make an expensive decision with it there.
I don't mind correcting the problem, I just want to understand better why it's there in the first place.
ex. if it's the spindle, then here I am getting custom tie rod ends, and wedge kits or arms to bandage something the "incorrect" spindle caused... why not just get it right and get proper spindles.
If it's the springs, maybe I can just get higher springs and fix it that way.
The other possibility is that these cars were not and are not precision built. Throw in 50 years of use, abuse and possible accidents who knows? I wouldn’t exclude the possibility of the upper holes drilled wrong to begin with either.
This is one reason I made the decision to go with aftermarket control arms that were also adjustable to add much needed caster. I never regretted it nor looked backed.
One of the culprits to bump steer is lowering the car. These cars toe the tire in when the suspension extends and toes out on compression. At stock ride height the travel is pretty much evenly split and doesn’t go too far from base setting when driving normally. Once the car is lowered your travel is now more biased to extension and toe in. When I lowered my 66 from suspension work I had bump steer even with stock spindles. Caster is your friend in fighting bump steer. I have 72 disc brakes on my 66 and have it driving great with no noticeable bump steer.
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