Knock, knock, it's my brakes again. - Page 5 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #61 of 82 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 01:00 PM
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Why not try the other clips first before rotors?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...332313&jsn=496

Seems cheaper. Might have some at your local parts store in case the noise comes back. Your money though.
Went with this advice and ordered a set of this type.
A shop in Germany has some (C7OZ-2B164-A) in stock as it is nearer I ordered there.
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post #62 of 82 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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I think I'm gonna take the rotor in and have it turned to make sure it's perfectly straight. It's something I can get done for free at work so it will only cost me some time...scratch that, I guess I'll have to get a new seal as I need to remove the bearings to turn it. It'll have to wait until Thursday though.

1967 Mustang, mild 351W, 750 Demon, MSD, Pertronix, long tubes, Dan williams built top loader with Hurst shifter, #550 coils, 5 leaf mid-eye springs, 3:55's, CSRP disc brakes.
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post #63 of 82 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 11:13 PM
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I checked my brakes again today and found two things:
  1. At the driver side (where the knocking sound comes from) is the outer part of the anti-rattle clip deformed and the top part of the pad is not touching the caliper. (see pic Brake_1 to _3). The rest looks ok like shown in pic Brake_4.
  2. The hole of the anti-rattle clip is off center as shown in pic Brake_3 and Brake_5.
The anti-rattle clip is not working as it should be (keeping the pad to the caliper). Is it because the hole is off center? Or are the forces which push the pad to the outside are too high? And if they are too high, what is the cause?
This might explain why after some miles the brakes start to knock.



I will call Dennis tomorrow and discuss these findings with him. I will keep you posted.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Brake_5.jpg (56.3 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg Brake_4.jpg (72.9 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg Brake_3.jpg (86.9 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg Brake_2.jpg (83.4 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg Brake_1.jpg (46.7 KB, 133 views)



1966 Convertible (Plant: San Jose, CA)
289 2V, PS, AC
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post #64 of 82 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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Due to other things going on, I never got a chance to pull my rotor to get turned. I did find a few minutes to toss on the new pads though. Knock is currently gone again, if it comes back which is usually 2-3 days, I'll have more free time later this week to have the rotor turned.

1967 Mustang, mild 351W, 750 Demon, MSD, Pertronix, long tubes, Dan williams built top loader with Hurst shifter, #550 coils, 5 leaf mid-eye springs, 3:55's, CSRP disc brakes.
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post #65 of 82 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 12:08 PM
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I got a mail from Dennis that he's working on the configuration of the pad retainers.
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post #66 of 82 (permalink) Old 09-11-2018, 11:26 PM
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Here an update from my side. I had a few phone calls with Dennis from CSRP. Super nice and helpful guy! We discussed the retainers and he thought it is unlike this causes the issue. But he recommended I should flip them so the top becomes button. I did it... no effect at all. So he was right, it is not a retainer issue. I did the same as @sycostang67 and installed new brake pads. Drove over 180 miles the last days and NO knocking so far. The manual of the pads recommends 200 miles to fully bed-in the pads. So I took it easy with braking. Let's see how things develop when I start driving and braking harder



However, so far it seems like a brake pad issue. I will keep you guys posted.



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post #67 of 82 (permalink) Old 09-12-2018, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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My new pads only lasted a day before knocking again, guess I'll get my rotor pulled and have it turned.

1967 Mustang, mild 351W, 750 Demon, MSD, Pertronix, long tubes, Dan williams built top loader with Hurst shifter, #550 coils, 5 leaf mid-eye springs, 3:55's, CSRP disc brakes.
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post #68 of 82 (permalink) Old 09-13-2018, 08:06 AM
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Found another guy having the same or similar issue but he hasn't updated his thread to say it's finally solved 100%. He might even be a member of this forum. Let's try @mustangmike33

https://www.mocgb.net/forums/showthr...Progress/page5
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post #69 of 82 (permalink) Old 09-13-2018, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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I bit the bullet and just ordered 2 new non-slotted rotors. They should arrive tomorrow morning, will hopefully have them mounted on Saturday. I'm just getting really tired of taking my wheel off every 2-3 days to drive my car.

1967 Mustang, mild 351W, 750 Demon, MSD, Pertronix, long tubes, Dan williams built top loader with Hurst shifter, #550 coils, 5 leaf mid-eye springs, 3:55's, CSRP disc brakes.
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post #70 of 82 (permalink) Old 09-13-2018, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caper50 View Post
Found another guy having the same or similar issue but he hasn't updated his thread to say it's finally solved 100%. He might even be a member of this forum. Let's try @mustangmike33

https://www.mocgb.net/forums/showthr...Progress/page5
Great finding! And it also points in the direction of the pads. I have now around 180 miles on the new pads and no issues so far. I hope on the weekend I will find some time and an empty parking lot (which is not so easy in the Bay Area) to lock up the brakes.



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post #71 of 82 (permalink) Old 09-15-2018, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I finally got the rotor replaced. I ordered 2 non slotted rotors on Thursday and each one was delivered to a different store on Friday, SMH. I was able to pick them up this morning and just got to work on the car. For now I only replaced the side that was knocking. The knock is currently gone, I will continue to drive the car this week to see if it stays gone. I am using the same pads in the same positions that were knocking before the rotor swap. If it doesn't come back, then I will swap on the other rotor. The car isn't pulling or anything weird so I didn't see an immediate reason to change the other side. Besides, if this doesn't work I can a least return one rotor.

Here's a little bit of info some may find helpful. When I went to get new wheel seals, there was only a listing for drum brake seals. I got them anyway and they were the same as the disc brake seals that came in the kit. I figured the sealing surface would be the same because it's a drum brake spindle, I wasn't too sure about the overall diameter of the metal ring though. Thankfully it all fit together perfectly.

1967 Mustang, mild 351W, 750 Demon, MSD, Pertronix, long tubes, Dan williams built top loader with Hurst shifter, #550 coils, 5 leaf mid-eye springs, 3:55's, CSRP disc brakes.
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post #72 of 82 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 02:30 AM Thread Starter
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Doing good so far, got about 200 miles on the car in the last 3 days and no knocking yet. I'll continue driving it this week and toss the other non slotted rotor on this weekend if things continue this way.

1967 Mustang, mild 351W, 750 Demon, MSD, Pertronix, long tubes, Dan williams built top loader with Hurst shifter, #550 coils, 5 leaf mid-eye springs, 3:55's, CSRP disc brakes.
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post #73 of 82 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 06:14 AM
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Hopefully your issue is solved but honestly I was hoping it wasn't the rotors, not that I enjoy seeing people throw money away. Only that I hope I'm not in the same boat when time comes to run my car. Just waiting to hear from @Mustang4SF to see how he made out with the pad swap.
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post #74 of 82 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caper50 View Post
Hopefully your issue is solved but honestly I was hoping it wasn't the rotors, not that I enjoy seeing people throw money away. Only that I hope I'm not in the same boat when time comes to run my car. Just waiting to hear from @Mustang4SF to see how he made out with the pad swap.

I have also more than 200 miles on the new pads by now and no knocking! For me it is hard to understand how the pads could cause the knocking, but I'm not a brake expert. Maybe incompatibility between the rotors and the pads


@sycostang67 which pads have you tried? I got EBC Redstuff 3000 from Summit. They are expensive, but I heard a lot of good things about them.







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post #75 of 82 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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I used the only pads available at the local parts store, standard Brake Best. They were knocking by the end of the first day. I'm using them with the non slotted rotors right now with no knock. I just put another 40 miles of stop and go driving on them today and it's still quiet. I think something was wonky with the rotor, and it was wearing the cheap pads quick enough for the knock to return. Maybe the EBC pads don't wear as easily and that's why your knock hasn't returned yet. Please keep us informed if this does become the fix for your car, maybe the pads will even wear out the rotor defect if that is the case. How much did the EBC pads set you back?

1967 Mustang, mild 351W, 750 Demon, MSD, Pertronix, long tubes, Dan williams built top loader with Hurst shifter, #550 coils, 5 leaf mid-eye springs, 3:55's, CSRP disc brakes.
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