Switching from Edelbrock Torker II intake to Performer RPM - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-13-2018, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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Switching from Edelbrock Torker II intake to Performer RPM

I’ve run into a problem with changing my intakes. The Torker II has a front and rear Port from the water pump, whereas the Performer RPM intake doesn’t have a rear port. How do you run the coolant circuit from the water pump without there being a rear port/water jacket in the rear of the new intake? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-13-2018, 11:37 PM
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Which engine?

'67 coupe, 390, 4spd.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-13-2018, 11:39 PM
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I'm confused. I can see the Torker II has the rear crossover, but I've never hooked anything up there. The heater hoses come one off the front crossover, and one off the water pump.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-13-2018, 11:45 PM
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If you're talking about a SBF (221-260-289-302-351) then the rear water passages shouldn't be used. Coolant flows from the water pump into the block on each bank, down around the cylinder bores then up into the heads and exits from each head at the front into the intake manifold where there are two exits, a large one into the thermostat housing then to the radiator, and a small one to the heater core and, after going through the heater core, back to the water pump. Any rear water passage in the manifold should remain plugged.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-14-2018, 12:15 AM Thread Starter
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The way the 2 smaller hoses go on my 289w, from the water pump are; one to the thermostat housing and one to the rear of the old (Torker II) intake. The heater’s not being used as it never gets cold enough where I live. Is it best that I just blank the entire small hose circuit as I don’t use/need the heater? Sorry if any of these questions are stupid or idiotic - this set up has been like this from the previous owner.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-14-2018, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
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Photos of the intake and how the 2 smaller hoses from the water pump were run.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-14-2018, 02:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Sparkes89 View Post
The way the 2 smaller hoses go on my 289w, from the water pump are; one to the thermostat housing and one to the rear of the old (Torker II) intake. The heaterís not being used as it never gets cold enough where I live. Is it best that I just blank the entire small hose circuit as I donít use/need the heater? Sorry if any of these questions are stupid or idiotic - this set up has been like this from the previous owner.
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Photos of the intake and how the 2 smaller hoses from the water pump were run.
I'm still confused how you have/had your's configured.

From the water pump there are two small hoses. One should connect directly to the front water neck, and the other is supposed to run to your heater. The heater then has a return line back to the intake manifold (your choice of port). If you are not going to run a heater, then just cap those heater lines.

Maybe you explained it clearly already and it just wasn't making sense in my brain. I'm 3/4 asleep right now.


1969 MaCh 1 - CHP 427w 10.8 comp
460 rwhp / 489 rwtq SAE

TFS 205cc 11R heads || Vic Jr. intake || Holley 950HP || 14" 6 piston / 13" 4 piston Wilwood brakes || T56 Magnum || SPEC 2+ hyd clutch || Detroit Locker || 3.70's || Aluminum DS || TCP R&P || TCP 1 1/8" front sway bar || TCP front adj coilover's || TCP Panhard Rod & rear sway bar || Maier rear leafs || Bilstein shocks || Forgeline GA3C wheels - 18"◊10", 19"x12" 325/30
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-14-2018, 02:26 AM
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Ok, I reread your posts.. yes, you can just cap those ports.


1969 MaCh 1 - CHP 427w 10.8 comp
460 rwhp / 489 rwtq SAE

TFS 205cc 11R heads || Vic Jr. intake || Holley 950HP || 14" 6 piston / 13" 4 piston Wilwood brakes || T56 Magnum || SPEC 2+ hyd clutch || Detroit Locker || 3.70's || Aluminum DS || TCP R&P || TCP 1 1/8" front sway bar || TCP front adj coilover's || TCP Panhard Rod & rear sway bar || Maier rear leafs || Bilstein shocks || Forgeline GA3C wheels - 18"◊10", 19"x12" 325/30
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-14-2018, 08:41 AM
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Run a heater hose from the lower water pump outlet to the heater hose port just behind the thermostat.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-14-2018, 09:05 AM
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Your gonna love this change. I had a torquer II what a PoS! the Performer RPM with the right cam will light up your full RPM range from 2500 to 5500. enjoy

Heavy Metal Thunder Video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cW3L_O7N_xs
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-14-2018, 09:06 AM
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On an SBF, there are three "heater" size hoses.

Water pump - lower outlet -> to heater core
Water pump - upper outlet -> to thermostat housing ("L" shaped molded hose)

Intake manifold - front x-over -> heater core

I've never seen the rear crossover used for anything other than sensor bungs on older cars. Usually, the only things in the front x-over are the heater hose nipple and the temp gauge sensor.

If you're not going to use the heater, which is rather useful for defogging the windshield, loop the lower w/p to the front intake x-over, or cap the waterpump and put a pipe plug in the intake.

"We've always done it that way" - the most dangerous words ever spoken

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