CJ Pony Parts Turn Signal Cam Switch Question - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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CJ Pony Parts Turn Signal Cam Switch Question

Hello All,
I'm rebuilding the steering column on my 1968 coupe and have a broken turn signal cam switch. CJ Pony has a replacement cam for about $15 versus replacing the whole harness for about $120. Has anyone tried this cam switch? Does it fit correctly and work the way it should? Or, should I spend the extra money for the complete harness?

Thanks in advance for your input ~ Lenny B
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-17-2018, 02:00 AM
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I never heard from anybody that the replacement cam really led to a satisfying result, but never tried it personally.
I always go for the whole harness, which are unfortunately from bad quality, too.
In 9 years I replaced it 3 times.

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1966 Mustang Fastback * Candy Apple Red
289 A-Code * 4-Speed Manual
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-17-2018, 07:53 AM
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I replaced the switch and connector--probably totaled approx $70. So far so good even though its a Scott Drake part (not a fan of this supplier but was the only option I could find).
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-17-2018, 01:17 PM
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I think you're better off buying the whole harness with the cam switch installed. I tried replacing the cam only, and it didn't work.

1969 MaCh 1 - CHP 427w 10.8 comp
460 rwhp / 489 rwtq SAE

TFS 205cc 11R heads || Vic Jr. intake || Holley 950HP || 14" 6 piston / 13" 4 piston Wilwood brakes || T56 Magnum || SPEC 2+ hyd clutch || Detroit Locker || 3.70's || Aluminum DS || TCP R&P || TCP 1 1/8" front sway bar || TCP front adj coilover's || TCP Panhard Rod & rear sway bar || Maier rear leafs || Bilstein shocks || Forgeline GA3C wheels - 18"10", 19"x12" 325/30
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-18-2018, 07:00 AM
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I replaced the cam, the wire that came with the new cam was 20 gauge, the original wires were 16 if I remember correctly. It worked - but I had significant voltage drop thanks to the splices and thin wire. Turn signals weren't nearly as bright as they had been before. I ended up replacing the whole thing.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-21-2018, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice guys. I decided to just replace the entire switch and harness. I picked up the Scott Drake stuff from NPD. My car is a 1968 and the new switch and connector were a little different but it should work, or I should be able to make it work. One difference is the new unit has two additional wires. After following them I came to the conclusion this harness is supposed to work with more than one application. Also, the metal one the bottom that rides above the bearing has a step or shoulder to it and the original does not. As for the connector, they appear the same accept for the new one has an extra plastic piece on it. Images below are of original 1968 non-tilt and the Scott Drake reproduction for your comparison. Also, I was able to salvage the original rubber protect sleeve by lightly rubbing/cleaning it with lacquer thinner.
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File Type: jpg IMG_3428.jpg (49.5 KB, 15 views)
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-21-2018, 10:08 PM
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Nice. I did the same on my 68 with the SD unit. Works perfect. I did have to clean out the track the horn tabs ride in to be smoother when turning the wheel.

'68 Mustang Hardtop, 302, C4
AKA "Dr. Wolf"

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-21-2018, 10:12 PM
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I did one of these back in 2000. Hasn't failed, yet. Of course I haven't used it in 12 years so.....


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