1970 Mustang Front Suspension Noise - Vintage Mustang Forums
 5Likes
  • 2 Post By MrFlash
  • 1 Post By Brian Conway
  • 2 Post By jfstang
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-21-2018, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
MADdukeDUDE01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 3
1970 Mustang Front Suspension Noise

Hey all!

A couple years ago we got our mustang running again and we ran into some problems that we just can't fix. We changed the back leaf springs because they were pretty worn out and the car would bottom out with any sort of weight in the back. We put heavy duty springs on it and the problem was fixed, the car sits nicely now. But after that we noticed a horrible knocking noise in the front end. Going over slight bumps or cracks in the road puts out this loud metal to metal knocking noise. If you are going over a speed bump or a big dip in the road you won't hear it but only on the rough, sudden bumps it is noticeable. We've changed somethings since the including putting new shocks on the front but it just won't seem to go away. Recently we looked at the sway bar bushings and noticed they were really dry rotted and decided to change them. We took those out and there were big holes missing in the sides of the rubber bushings. We thought that was it but that wasn't the case. It didn't make any difference. We listened really good over bumps and it just sounds like there's small gaps between metal pieces to where when you go over bumps it clanks around. At this point we have no idea, it's just the front end. Any ides would be appreciated!

Thank you!
MADdukeDUDE01 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-21-2018, 08:58 PM
Senior Member
 
MrFlash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: JAX
Posts: 655
Could be upper arm bushings.
Could be lower arm bushing.
Could be the spring perches.
Could be the strut rods.

The car is almost 50 years old. All the front suspension parts are worn out.
Opentracker and Hemikiller like this.

1970 Mustang coupe
MrFlash is offline  
post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-21-2018, 09:04 PM
Moderator
Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 8,481
Garage
Power or manual steering. I had/have a similar situation on my Ď66 with PS. Completely new front and rear suspension and steering. Could not find the problem. Finally put a GoPro in many locations until I found the problem. The problem in my case is the PS stud in the cylinder where the pitman arm attaches. Even though itís within spec, it makes metal to metal noises when going over bumps as the ball moves around in the cylinder socket.

Regards,
Patrick
patrickstapler is offline  
 
post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-21-2018, 09:09 PM
Senior Member
 
Brian Conway's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 1,454
Replacing the strut rod bushings is a good start but also mandates that you have the front end re-aligned. Any good alignment shop will be happy to point out the failing parts on your front end. Probably a good way to solve the unwanted noise problem and may even improve the cars drivability ?Brian
Klutch likes this.

5R09A 4 Speed GT Built 5/29/65
9T02R 4 Speed SCJ Built 9/19/68
Owner Driver Mechanic
Brian Conway is online now  
post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2018, 09:01 AM
Senior Member
 
Hemikiller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Killingworth, CT
Posts: 8,872
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrFlash View Post
Could be upper arm bushings.
Could be lower arm bushing.
Could be the spring perches.
Could be the strut rods.

The car is almost 50 years old. All the front suspension parts are worn out.
Agreed - rebuild the entire front end.

Nothing worthwhile is ever quick, cheap or easy, those that can't do, complain

71 Mach 1

HOLLEY TECH PAGES
FORD OE TACH HOOKUP FORD OE TACH HOOKUP w/MSD (pg 7)
Hemikiller is online now  
post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2018, 10:42 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 9,332
You should definitely replace all the front end components, but in my experience, a knocking sound was always a worn ball joint.

Currently working on a 1970 Mach 1 project. See it here: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...ode-build.html
Klutch is offline  
post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2018, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
MADdukeDUDE01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 3
Yea at this point I think we are just going to slowly start tearing the front end apart and see what we can find. My dad got the car back in the early 80's with nothing in it but the front windshield but it still had all the suspension. They changed a little bit of it but most of it is still original. All of the bushings and seals need to be replaced anyways, they are all dry rotted.
MADdukeDUDE01 is offline  
post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2018, 01:26 PM
Senior Member
 
Hemikiller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Killingworth, CT
Posts: 8,872
Garage
I can think of lots of places that will cause a clunk with a stiff bump. Strut rod bushings, upper control arm shafts, ball joints - basically every part in the system.

Good plan to replace everything. I do recommend you purchase brand name parts from an automotive vendor, not a Mustang restoration supply house. Been there, done that, had to deal with the crap quality parts. If it's not Moog, TRW or another name I'm familiar with, it's not getting bought. I worked up a front end kit for a friend with a 70 coupe and it came to about $450 with all Moog parts at RockAuto.

Nothing worthwhile is ever quick, cheap or easy, those that can't do, complain

71 Mach 1

HOLLEY TECH PAGES
FORD OE TACH HOOKUP FORD OE TACH HOOKUP w/MSD (pg 7)
Hemikiller is online now  
post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2018, 02:33 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Halton Hills, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,879
Garage
+1 on the replace/rebuild the whole front end, then you start with a clean sheet. I'll give a plug for Opentracker, he's got everything you'll need. And his upper A arms are blueprinted so the cross shaft is assured to be dead perpendicular to the arm so you get accurate alignment specs.
Opentracker and Grabber70Mach like this.

[/SIGPIC]67 Fastback GT -- original colour (Frost Turquoise), original 289 A code engine. Pic is of me and the Mustang taken in May of '67, with original F70-14 Wide Ovals. Same car is now restored to "as new" but 3 speed tranny swapped out for 4 speed back in the mid '80's, with tach dash, original Equalock rear, Koni's, Opentracker UCA, LCA, roller perches and idler arm, roller bearing pedal cluster, Cibie headlights, 4100 carb (old 4300 put in storage probably forever)
jfstang is offline  
post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2018, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
MADdukeDUDE01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 3
Well thank you everyone for the ideas and tips. We'll look into it and tear it apart. For right now I think we'll just look into fixing the problem but a complete rebuild is the plan down the road. I'm a little bit more adamant about working on it than my dad but we'll get it done. That's really the only problem with the car, other than that it is just minor stuff. Thanks guys!
MADdukeDUDE01 is offline  
post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2018, 07:27 PM
Member
 
Twinturbofan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 48
Garage
I had a similar noise in my 65 fastback, manual steering. In my case it was the front sway bar end link bushings. Links and bushings come as a kit and are not very expensive.

65 fastback, A code, 4 speed, 289, mild cam, aluminum heads, roller rockers, Edelbrock RPM manifold, Holly 650, frame connectors, 9" locking rear, front disc brakes, traction master traction bars.
Twinturbofan is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome