1965 - upper ball joint shopping - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-05-2018, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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1965 - upper ball joint shopping

Hi, trying to order a new ball joint for this car - car is at the mechanics but mechanic wants me to order part. Needs a new upper ball joint. Does a 1965 have a 3 bolt ball joint or a 4 bolt ball joint?
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-05-2018, 11:27 PM
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6 cyl = 3, V8 = 4 if unmodified
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-06-2018, 12:01 AM
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I think I have a set of Moog ball joints in the garage if you canít find them locally

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-06-2018, 12:42 AM
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What condition are the upper control arms in and are they centered on the shaft? If they’re in bad shape or aren’t centered, the Moog brand ball joints alone are $30 a piece for the 4 bolt style. I would, and did, spend the extra $30 a side and get the Moog brand UCA’s that come centered and with ball joints already installed as the UCA’s in my car weren’t centered and looked quite old.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-06-2018, 07:55 AM
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Before you buy a ball joint you need to ask the mechanic which one it has. There is a very good chance that in the 50+ years of existence of your car that the UCAs have been changed and there is no telling whether it has 3 or 4 bolts. If your mechanic can't tell you which one it is I'd be concerned.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-06-2018, 08:29 AM
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I would replace upper a arm as mentioned. I have done it both ways. Those ball joints are a real pain to remove if they still have the factory rivets in them. It seems to be much more work, but usually the upper a arms are bad at the pivot and the ball joint areas. On another note, I removed both my upper a arms, both springs, cut 1/4 coil off springs and reassembled in less than 4 hours this past weekend. Then did an alignment to boot. I did have my son help me.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-06-2018, 04:06 PM
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+3 for UCA replacement.
Your mechanic will charge you for labour for the time it will take to remove the old ball joints for the extra cost of the whole arm.
Just replace the lot.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-06-2018, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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thank you! very helpful!
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-06-2018, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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I think I'll just order them from CJPony?
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-06-2018, 08:57 PM
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For 65/66 I've always seen it asked but I've never actually seen a 3 bolt UCA


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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-07-2018, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Seabseattle View Post
I think I'll just order them from CJPony?
You can take a look at Vintage Mustang Suspension and Steering Friction Free Roller Bearing Performance - Opentracker Racing Products too. Give John a call, he won’t steer you wrong.

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-07-2018, 11:51 AM
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A couple of posts mentioned the UCA not centered, isn't that the caster setting? It's not centered for a reason.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-07-2018, 07:53 PM
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I would and did order my Moog brand UCA's through Summit Racing. They can be founder for less elsewhere and then you can get them price matched and free shipping on top of that. I do most of my parts order through them or NPD but Summit typically has most of the parts that I need. If they don't, I generally go through NPD as I've yet to have any issues with them. In terms of the UCA's being centered, it's the two stud bolts that come out of the UCA and go through the shock tower that need to be centered. If they aren't then it won't be sitting evenly when bolted into the shock tower. A couple of issues with this can be, and I had one of them before replacing my original UCA's, is that it can make the alignment off, more difficult to align, having the UCA too far towards the rear of the car if you do the Shelby drop and the issue that I had was that the UCA was rubbing on the inside of the shock tower because it wasn't centered properly. The UCA outer nut was rubbing up against the inside of the shock tower and it also doesn't allow you to grease the insides of the UCA's. I bought Moog replacement UCA's from Summit that were centered and then went to the hardware store and bought some 90 degree zerk fittings to be able to grease the shafts and UCA's much more easily and not have to drill holes through the shock towers. It's also better peace of mind to have brand new UCA's instead of just replacing the ball joints because the shafts are likely not centered or are worn out. I'd spend the extra $30 or so per side and have brand new UCA's instead of just ball joints. Getting new UCA's that aren't binding will probably even help the ride comfort/quality and if your mechanic is taking the UCA's out in the first place, I'd have him drill the holes for the Shelby 1" drop while he's in there.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 07:23 PM
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A couple of posts mentioned the UCA not centered, isn't that the caster setting? It's not centered for a reason.
I'm with you on this subject. Wouldn't this be the most effective way to achieve positive caster, rather than shims or strut rods pulling the LCA forward? When performing the Arning/Shelby drop on a 65/65 the UCA is relocated 1/8'' rearward, so wouldn't moving the UCA rearward on the shaft as far as possible until interference with the shock tower is encountered be best?
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-29-2018, 05:02 PM
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I don't have the tools to do my own alignment so I took my car to a shop after doing the Shelby drop and adding new Moog UCA's that were properly centered. They didn't have a problem aligning the car and I think the reason why the arms aren't centered is more because they're cheap $20-30 parts that are made overseas and the quality control probably isn't what it should be. As I mentioned before, my original UCA's were rubbing up against the inside of the shock tower on the rear of the UCA before I did the Shelby drop. I wouldn't have been able to make them work had I tried to use them after doing the Shelby drop and moving them 1/8" further toward the rear of the car. Also, as stated before, how are you supposed to grease the UCA's if they're rubbing up against the inside of the shock tower without cutting a hole through the shock towers? I have room between mine now and also put some 90 degree zerk fittings on them before installation. Makes greasing them much easier.
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