'66 front suspension/steering pictures needed - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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'66 front suspension/steering pictures needed

Hey guys,


I'm chasing some issues with my wifes '66 coupe, I've rebuilt the entire front suspension and steering components but we're having a bunch of steering issues. first let me state the car was lowered with the "shelby" drop and is using factor spec springs and components, It's also running 235/45/17 tires and rims.


here's the issues, when I align it with the recommended 1/8" toe in I end up with a serious issue, when driving steady speed and you punch it, the front end lifts and won't come back down, if you continue driving the front wheels keep "walking" up under the car and the toe in become so bad the car will barely roll. the suspension was tightened down with the weight on the wheels. the only way to prevent it to align it with some toe out which causes the car to "wander" a bit on the highway, the rest of the alignment numbers are 4* caster and 0* camber.



one thing I noticed is while looking under the car, the tie rods are pretty much dead straight from where they attach to the drag link to the spindles, I've always heard the tie rods should be angled down toward the spindles, never flat or angled up.


does anyone have a picture that shows the tie rods from the front with the weight on the wheels the can post, I've searched and either I'm not putting in the correct search terms or there are none out there. I would like to install a "bump steer" kit but the car has power steering and nobody makes a kit for this car.


thanks a bunch.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 08:48 PM
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a couple things come to mind did you tighten the control arms while the suspension was off the ground? you shouldn't have. Also if your using the original springs ? not enough spring rate
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 08:51 PM
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Hey guys,


I'm chasing some issues with my wifes '66 coupe, I've rebuilt the entire front suspension and steering components but we're having a bunch of steering issues. first let me state the car was lowered with the "shelby" drop and is using factor spec springs and components, It's also running 235/45/17 tires and rims.


here's the issues, when I align it with the recommended 1/8" toe in I end up with a serious issue, when driving steady speed and you punch it, the front end lifts and won't come back down, if you continue driving the front wheels keep "walking" up under the car and the toe in become so bad the car will barely roll. the suspension was tightened down with the weight on the wheels. the only way to prevent it to align it with some toe out which causes the car to "wander" a bit on the highway, the rest of the alignment numbers are 4* caster and 0* camber.



one thing I noticed is while looking under the car, the tie rods are pretty much dead straight from where they attach to the drag link to the spindles, I've always heard the tie rods should be angled down toward the spindles, never flat or angled up.


does anyone have a picture that shows the tie rods from the front with the weight on the wheels the can post, I've searched and either I'm not putting in the correct search terms or there are none out there. I would like to install a "bump steer" kit but the car has power steering and nobody makes a kit for this car.


thanks a bunch.
Welcome to the wonderful world of Mustang suspension. Typical issue when lowered. I have to credit you in trying toe out, you're on the right track along with the 4* caster.. The problem or one of the problems, these cars have a ton of suspension travel and it all doesn't work right. With the rear steer the suspension toes in when extended and toes out on compression. At stock ride height with stock alignment, when toe is set I feel it's pretty much in the middle of travel. When you set toe, from sitting to either way, the toe changes a lot but still within reson from ride height that it doesn't rear it's ugly head too much. When lowered, you know have waaay more extension then compression, so you end up skewing you're toe in to excessive amounts since you know have a lot more extension then compression. As you found out, the toe out helps. I'm no expert on suspensions, not my day job but I learned a lot working on my car and fixing these issues.

Here's what I'd suggest. While it's ideal to have the tie rod assembly parallel to the lower arm so it all works as a parallelogram, that's not always possible. My feeling is to do the next best thing. make the tie rod assembly as long as you can by any means. This will make a more gradual arc as the suspension travels and reduce bump steer. Caster is one way. Experiment with toe. Get a bumpsteer kit such as Baer and add all the spacers. This will help a lot. On my 66, I have 72 spindles which aggravate the issue. I have a full Street or Track suspension. I run 4* caster, 1.125* negative camber and 1/16" toe in along with a Baer bumpsteer kit with all the spacers in. I also have 215/60/15 tires which probably helps. Your 245's may bring out problems that my skinnier tires hide. As of now my car is driving real nice with no noticeable issues no matter what.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 08:54 PM
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2nd66 behind me. I wasn't leading just how we were lined up and weren't allowed to pass. You can see my Baer bumpsteer ends



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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 09:11 PM
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 09:14 PM
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2nd66 behind me. I wasn't leading just how we were lined up and weren't allowed to pass. You can see my Baer bumpsteer ends



Notice they were going soooo fast, he blew the vinyl roof off his car!
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 09:22 PM
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Notice they were going soooo fast, he blew the vinyl roof off his car!

LOL, thanks for the support. This was at Watkins Glen. A charity event. It was $25 for 3 laps at 55 mph. 2nd66 and dobrostang invited me to come. Dobrostang was behind 2nd66. The rules were absolutely no passing and no holding back to get a long high speed run. They were watching us at every corner. 2nd66 and dobro said if everyone behaves, they get a little generous with speed. I never look at my speedometer but both of them said we were doing 90 mph at times and they were behind me. I have no idea how fast ot how slow I was here but it looks killer.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 09:26 PM
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Tom, every time I see this photo I wish there was a similar event here. Looks like a blast! I'd have just as much fun watching it from the stands.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 09:27 PM
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2nd66 behind me. I wasn't leading just how we were lined up and weren't allowed to pass. You can see my Baer bumpsteer ends




Looks like quite a bit of negative camber.


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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 09:31 PM
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Looks like quite a bit of negative camber.
Just a smidge, mostly for tire clearance with the 3.75" BS of the TTD's, 1.125* to be exact. No unusual wear so far, tires wearing normally it appears

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 09:41 PM
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Tom, every time I see this photo I wish there was a similar event here. Looks like a blast! I'd have just as much fun watching it from the stands.
Only 16 hours and 21 minutes
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 10:13 PM
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Only 16 hours and 21 minutes

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by helo-tech View Post
Hey guys,


I'm chasing some issues with my wifes '66 coupe, I've rebuilt the entire front suspension and steering components but we're having a bunch of steering issues. first let me state the car was lowered with the "shelby" drop and is using factor spec springs and components, It's also running 235/45/17 tires and rims.


here's the issues, when I align it with the recommended 1/8" toe in I end up with a serious issue, when driving steady speed and you punch it, the front end lifts and won't come back down, if you continue driving the front wheelsw keep "walking" up under the car and the toe in become so bad the car will barely roll. the suspension was tightened down with the weight on the wheels. the only way to prevent it to align it with some toe out which causes the car to "wander" a bit on the highway, the rest of the alignment numbers are 4* caster and 0* camber.



one thing I noticed is while looking under the car, the tie rods are pretty much dead straight from where they attach to the drag link to the spindles, I've always heard the tie rods should be angled down toward the spindles, never flat or angled up.


does anyone have a picture that shows the tie rods from the front with the weight on the wheels the can post, I've searched and either I'm not putting in the correct search terms or there are none out there. I would like to install a "bump steer" kit but the car has power steering and nobody makes a kit for this car.


thanks a bunch.
Iím having the identical issue, but it didnít start until I changed the front springs. I, too, have the arming drop and full Opentracaker roller suspension. Iím thinking about putting my sifter, 1Ē drop front springs back on the car and see if that solves it
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-11-2018, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the replies guys,


to answer a couple questions:


yes, I waited to tighten up the suspension bolts until I had the weight on the wheels.


I would like nothing better than to install a "bump steer kit" but nobody I can find sells one that will work with the factory power steering setup.


I've been spending a lot of time under the car trying to come up with something to help but have yet to come up with anything yet.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-11-2018, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by helo-tech View Post
thanks for the replies guys,


to answer a couple questions:


yes, I waited to tighten up the suspension bolts until I had the weight on the wheels.


I would like nothing better than to install a "bump steer kit" but nobody I can find sells one that will work with the factory power steering setup.


I've been spending a lot of time under the car trying to come up with something to help but have yet to come up with anything yet.
get a set of 620 coils.They aren't to expensive
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