EFI Upgrade: Holley Sniper w/ Aeromotive - Page 8 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #106 of 122 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 12:11 PM
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Mind sharing your AFR settings and a bit of engine build info with us? That's some great mileage from a 302!
I'll try to remember to grab settings off the controller tonight when I'm messing with it. Planning to crawl under it and see which power steering line actually let go so I can get it pulled off and a new one ordered.

Motorwise... It's a relatively new 302. Maybe 4000 miles on it at this point. bored 40 over, sealed power pistons, mahle rings, clevite rod/main bearings, durabond cam bearings, 351 cam, lightly ported and polished. It's not a fire breather by anymeans but assembled with quality parts. Still has the iron heads on it...

I was running 1900-2000 rpm most of the trip.

'67 GT Coupe, 302, T5
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post #107 of 122 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 12:38 PM
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my 302 is getting ~8mpg CITY on my sniper - (I go 100 miles on 12 gallons, I never let my tank get below 1/4 because spectra tanks suck)

which... SEEMS bad, but when I compare that with my truck, its supposed to get 21 highway/15 city - BUT I get 11mpg city because of my driving habits.

still haven't gotten it to the dyno yet, im very interested in sirhk100's AFR settings

Daily Driver 69 coupe https://imgur.com/a/FztYA

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post #108 of 122 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 01:07 PM
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Sniper will run slightly rich unless you adjust the tune. Just like a carburetor, running too lean can damage pistons. So Holley has set the default to run rich so people won't damage their engine right away.
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post #109 of 122 (permalink) Old 12-02-2018, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by stevenjasmin View Post
Looking at fuel options, I was wondering how the aeromotive stealth worked out? I like that the feed and return are in the stock location. Was it a easy setup? Did the sending unit seem accurate?

The Areomotive Stealth II tank went into my '66 with no issues. The hook-ups were easy! I haven't filled the tank completely, so I can't comment on the accuracy of the sender.
Could you tell me what fittings you used to connect the lines to the tank, I can’t find the info, other than orb-06. As I am stationed in Germany I am trying to ensure I have all the parts the first go around.

Thank you
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post #110 of 122 (permalink) Old 12-02-2018, 09:03 AM
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It's a "O" ring -6 fitting https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-15606

Larry
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post #111 of 122 (permalink) Old 12-02-2018, 09:08 AM
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Could you tell me what fittings you used to connect the lines to the tank, I can’t find the info, other than orb-06. As I am stationed in Germany I am trying to ensure I have all the parts the first go around.
The fitting you'll need to connect -6AN fittings to the tank is Aeromotive's 15606 O-ring adapter. To that, you can attach any -6AN fitting. I used Earl's 759166ERL Vapor Guard Hose End. It is a swivel fitting that allows you to position it at any angle.
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'66 GT Fastback, 302, Edelbrock Top End, Sniper EFI/Aeromotive, MSD, JBA Headers & 2.5" Exhaust, T5Z, Currie 3.55 Trac-Loc

Last edited by rhutt; 12-02-2018 at 09:10 AM.
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post #112 of 122 (permalink) Old 01-21-2019, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Any opinions on where/how to run the fuel line? I've seen it done down the middle and I've seen it done down the side.

David
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post #113 of 122 (permalink) Old 01-21-2019, 10:14 PM
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I installed sub-frame connectors and ran along the passenger side, straight into the engine compartment.
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File Type: jpg EFI_2.jpg (598.0 KB, 18 views)


'66 GT Fastback, 302, Edelbrock Top End, Sniper EFI/Aeromotive, MSD, JBA Headers & 2.5" Exhaust, T5Z, Currie 3.55 Trac-Loc
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post #114 of 122 (permalink) Old 01-21-2019, 10:36 PM
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recent install sniper with aeromotive gen 2 tank

I posted this video in other thread don't know if david 1032 saw it.
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post #115 of 122 (permalink) Old 01-23-2019, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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I posted this video in other thread don't know if david 1032 saw it. https://youtu.be/yS-6ep1s0co


Thanks, I hadnt seen this. Nice work.

Are there any differing opinions on the best path to route the fuel line?


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David
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post #116 of 122 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 08:07 PM
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Help with fuel line selection and length

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Originally Posted by LastDeadLast View Post
David,

I have the Holley Dominator EFI with supply and return lines using Aeroquip socketless hose. It was fairly easy to install, but they recommend that you replace it every 5 years or so.

Instead of replacing it with new hose, I ordered nickel/copper hard lines and fittings from DiscountHydraulicHose.com. I was able to replace both the return lines with nickel/copper and all the fittings for less then replacing with new Aeroquip hose.

At the end of the day, the nickel/copper lines will outlast the car and IMO look better than hose as long as the installation is clean.

Just my .02.

-Shannon
Shannon-- or anyone else who went the discounthydraulichose.com route... can you help me with what lines you chose and fittings? I see 3/8" for supply and 5/16" for the return.

Not sure what product or length that you ordered. Any help on this would be appreciated-- buy once cry once. Dont want to be changing them out every 5 years.

Thanks in advance.

TS

65 mustang- mod: 289
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post #117 of 122 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Milehighsly View Post
Shannon-- or anyone else who went the discounthydraulichose.com route... can you help me with what lines you chose and fittings? I see 3/8" for supply and 5/16" for the return.

Not sure what product or length that you ordered. Any help on this would be appreciated-- buy once cry once. Dont want to be changing them out every 5 years.

Thanks in advance.

TS
Milehigh,

It took awhile to figure all this out. Hopefully this will help prevent some frustration.

A little history: The AN standard is a military fitting standard developed in the 1940's. The specs on AN are crazy precise and while that's great for military and aeronautical industry, its completely overkill for automotive applications. The 37 degree JIC standard is an SAE standard for high pressure hydraulic and fuel delivery up to 10,000psi. The fittings are interchangeable between AN and JIC... the "slightly" lower tolerances for JIC means being able to get the fittings MUCH, MUCH cheaper than AN fittings.

One thing you'll need to do is to make a 37 degree flare, which is the standard for AN and JIC... most flare tools can only do 45 degree so understand that when you go shopping for a tool. I already had an Eastwood tube flaring tool so all I needed to do it purchase the 37 degree die for it.

I used 3/8" line (also referred to as -6an) for both the supply and return lines. Why? I could buy one size of fittings and hose lines. The price difference is negligible and its just easier.

Once you have your line cut, you need three things to join a tube to an AN or JIC fitting (Assuming you use 3/8" tubing):
  1. A 3/8" tube sleeve (Link here)
  2. A 3/8" tube nut (Link here)
  3. Any JIC or AN fitting like one of these as an example (Link here)

You then put the tube nut on the tube, then the sleeve, flare the line and bolt it up like this:

The fittings you need are really going to depend on your fuel rail configuration and where your tank outlet is. My tank outlet comes out inside the trunk, so I go through the trunk with a bulkhead fitting then follow the passenger side inside frame rail, up to the rear of the engine bay, out to the fender-well routing under the front suspension, then back into the engine bay right in front of the shock tower then up to the fuel rail (I am using a fuel rail from a 91 Mustang GT). The lines under the car are cut into three sections to make it easier to install and jointed with these (Link here). Each time I go through metal I use a bulkhead fitting like this: Link here.

Here is a link to the main JIC product page for Discount Hydraulic Hose: Link here. Click on the shape you need an pick out the 3/8" version of that shape.

Hope this helps! I'm sure I missed something so let me know if you need more info. I would take pics of my setup, but I've got it all torn out to paint the undercarriage.

-Shannon
Grabber70Mach and Milehighsly like this.

1965 Mustang convertible

347 Stroker with Holley Dominator EFI
Street or Track coil-over suspension

Last edited by LastDeadLast; 02-28-2019 at 09:30 PM.
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post #118 of 122 (permalink) Old 03-07-2019, 08:57 PM
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Milehigh,


Hope this helps! I'm sure I missed something so let me know if you need more info. I would take pics of my setup, but I've got it all torn out to paint the undercarriage.

-Shannon
Thank you thank you! I appreciate the help. One other question for now.... did you purchase the 3/8" tubing from discounthydraulichose.com or other vendor? Bonus points for a link

Once again I thank you

MHS

65 mustang- mod: 289
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post #119 of 122 (permalink) Old 03-07-2019, 09:22 PM
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MHS,

I bought my tubing from Summit Racing: Link here.

If you're good, this is enough for a whole car.... I had to purchase two of them.

Let me know if I can lend any more help.

-Shannon

1965 Mustang convertible

347 Stroker with Holley Dominator EFI
Street or Track coil-over suspension
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post #120 of 122 (permalink) Old 03-07-2019, 10:07 PM
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Awesome.. I do feel better that the tubing wasnt on discounthydraulichose.com website and I just didnt see it after looking for awhile.

I assume that its also prudent to wrap the tubing with braided sleeve. I will try and route tight to frame rails and protected as much as possible-- similar to how you describe. All depends on exact EFI setup. Panning on aeromotive tank and Holley sniper EFI; but things could change.

MHS

65 mustang- mod: 289
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