Saw the name mentioned in another thread. I have an s code 67. Four Speed. Everytime I drive it at highway speed I think their should be another gear. Thought 5 speed but why not use Gear Vendors, shorten drive shaft and add 12 volt line, install unit. Done. No messing with adapters, shifters, clutch and its seems to be less money.
What say you ?
Been running GV for several years. I like the shift feel of a well tuned toploader. I build my own driveshafts. No vibrations, but I also do my own transmissions. It's the best of both worlds.
I just did my first 150 mile run with my recently installed TKO 600 5 speed with .64 5th and it is just perfect. I am running a 3.50 rear and a 427 Windsor stroker. Shifts are spot on and running 70 mph at 2000 RPM has made me realize I have some interior work given the squeaks I can now hear. Clean simple install via Modern Driveline.
Have it in my 67 390 with top loader. It’s a great set up. I have the button activation on a hurst t-handle. It seems pretty bullet proof to me.
You remove and replace the tail housing from the top loader and install the GV adapter. It’s a pretty easy process, although I did mine out of the car.
I haven’t changed the oil in mine but feel like it’s due. That’s the only negative in my book.
I’d never heard of these, so I just spent some time perusing their website. Do these units really go for $3,000? No way I’d personally spend that kind of money and not convert it to a T5. I also think you could convert to a five speed for far less, when I did the conversion I sold my 4 speed top loader for almost what I bought the t5 for. You can get rebuilt T5s for around a grand, in actually just bought one (for a bit cheaper, but only net of the refundable core charge).
And I agree with 22GT, it does not look any easier that a T5 swap to me.
Modern Driveline quoted me a T5 good to 600 ft lbs torque or maybe it was hp? Whether thats really true or not?
It was more expensive to convert to T5 but that included a bunch of other stuff besides tranny.
Saw the name mentioned in another thread. I have an s code 67. Four Speed. Everytime I drive it at highway speed I think their should be another gear. Thought 5 speed but why not use Gear Vendors, shorten drive shaft and add 12 volt line, install unit. Done. No messing with adapters, shifters, clutch and its seems to be less money.
What say you ?
I say you have a tough decision.
I have one in a '68 (289/small block C6/9"). It's about 80 lbs in a 50 lb sack,
as someone else mentioned. It's always had "interesting" harmonics from day 1.
It's about a 600 rpm drop at the engine when engaged. It's about worthless for
"splitting" gears. (way too much shifting)
On the other hand you have the T5 option. If they have one with a stupidly high
torque rating, that might be ok behind a 390. The regular pedestrian stocker
T5 doesn't like slicks or missed shifts. I had a customer at JBA on the "4 tranny
a year" plan..... loved him cuz he really helped my sales quota numbers.
I just got back from SEMA. Gear Vendors had two booths but I didn't observe
much foot traffic..... they must sell the crap out of them though to justify that
kind of expense because Las Vegas ain't a cheap show.
I've had one in my 66 with a C4 for years and I am very happy with it. I don't currently have a functioning EB, the lever assembly where the cables connect did not play well with the GV and the Magnaflow X pipe. I did purchase the E Stop actuator so when I get around to it I will have an E brake once again. Had a new driveshaft made, you will need the 90 degree adapter for the speedometer cable. I have a Flaming river tilt column and installed their turn signal lever with a dimmer switch button on it, so I have only one dimmer switch on the floor.
I chose a 3.55 rear ratio, in hindsight I should have selected something a little steeper.
As already said, splitting gears is a dream with in cars like this, count in seconds how long you are in first gear and you will see quickly it just is not worth the effort.
I would probably agree, if you are already a 4 speed changing to a five speed shouldnt be a big deal.
I have the c6 behind my not so stock 390 and I'm tired of going 55-58mph at 3200rpm.
So for me i think the gear vendor is a cheaper option.
There's another option for a T5 transmission. There's a place called Promotion Powertrain out of Florida that makes a T5 capable of withstanding 440-500hp for less than $2k. That's the route I'd be going and save both $1k and having to go with the bigger Tremec TKO.
Yeah, that would work. But 1500 for tranny then add everything else. Clutch, pedal Assembly, cable etc. Syarts adding up to more than add the Gear vendor unit.
If I was already a manual then i would definitely just go for an upgraded t5
I was agreeing with you and that link you shared. But then was stating / asking /wondering for me(or anyone running an auto already), that maybe it might be more cost effective to go with a Gear vendor then a full manual swap.
I think you would definitely spend less money buying a T5 and converting your car from an automatic to a manual, especially if you did most of the work yourself, as opposed to buying the GV kit for $3k. Even with the transmission being less than $2k, let's say you put another $1k into parts and swapping it all out and you'd still be breaking even. And, imo, it would make the car much more fun to drive having a manual transmission as opposed to an automatic. Just my .02 of course.
I've had GV overdrives in two tow vehicles (both automatic) and loved them. I'll eventually put one in my 63 Galaxie, 390 C6. It's not a drag strip terror but is built with fun street driving in mind right down to the 389 gear ratio. I don't want to row a shifter so for me the GV is a great solution. It's a simple installation any of us on this board should be able to accomplish save for shortening the drive shaft. Ultimately we are planning on doing some 2000 mile plus round trip road trips so this mod will pay for itself in short order.
Like so many other "what would you do" threads it usually boils down to personal preference after listening to the people that have BTDT.
I always felt the GV wasn't going with the stang (if I ever sold it). It was going in a tow vehicle. E-scam always has the tail piece adaptor cheap for most application.
I never understood the Gear Vendor thing, nor can I see how they have stayed in business. Someone must like them, but for our cars, there are way better options for the money.
I did a T-5 swap for around $2,000. I also did a Granada overdrive for $105. For those unfamiliar- Ford engineered a toploader case to a 3 speed w/ OD for the Granadas and some trucks and vans. To use one of these, all you need is a toploader tailshaft with the factory shifter and flip the 3-4 shift rod 180* as 3-4 inside is reversed from a regular 4 speed.
The blue one is the Granada and grey is a toploader. You can also see the differences with the tailshafts. For this swap, you do nothing different but bolt it in. Same mounts, drive shaft, factory shifter, and you need a the AT speedo cable, as this is on the opposite side from a 4 speed.
I do. Have been unobtainium for many years.
Whomever started up the company again a few years ago apparently
found a NOS unit, copied all the pieces and that's what they're selling.
There never seems to be any in stock on their website..... customers
are constantly waiting for the next "production run."
Have driveshaft shop source you an aluminum driveshaft from an old police Ford crown Victoria they can shorten it and balance it. I've used them in a couple of cars. Troublefree.
Isn't there anybody as old (or older) than I am that drove these cars back when they were only a couple years old? Running down the highway at 70 mph and 3,000 rpm is, to me, quite normal.
It is the indoctrination of fuel economy and low engine rpm that have caused the younger people to freak out when the engine goes above 2000 rpm at 75 mph. I have had people ask what kind of fuel mileage I get with my stuff. i tell them i dont know and dont care. I have what i have because I like them. IF I was concerned about gas mileage I would get a smart car. Screw the t5 and all that other manual garbage. I tried several in friends cars and you cannot shift them as fast as a ford toploader. And 600 hp tends to blow them apart and the gear spread is crap for roadracing. Iirc my f350 trucks with 4.10 gears are running close to 3000 rpm at 75 mph.
Saw the name mentioned in another thread. I have an s code 67. Four Speed. Everytime I drive it at highway speed I think their should be another gear. Thought 5 speed but why not use Gear Vendors, shorten drive shaft and add 12 volt line, install unit. Done. No messing with adapters, shifters, clutch and its seems to be less money.
What say you........"
This may not appeal to you, but my unconventional way of getting that extra gear is two part. First just to change the rear end gearing to suit your needs, although there's nothing wrong with cruising at 3,500 - 4.000 rpm with a healthy engine. People have gotten used to modern cars cruising rpm and maybe don't have a frame of reference for what passed as normal in the good old days
Secondly, add a healthy amount of extra horsepower, everyone has their own favorite way of doing that. A horsepower boost will nudge th acceleration back where it used to be before the gearing change, and then some. My preferred way is to add a vintage Paxton supercharger. Those are easily installed in an afternoon and you're on your way. I also add a 2.90 first gear, but that's just icing on the cake. The old Paxton's with a fluid cooler are very reliable and don't require any specialized maintenance other than a fluid change whenever you change the engine oil.
That’s my feeling too, gear it for how you drive. I’m running a WR Toploader with 2.8 gears. I like the combination. Even though I live in the part of PA that’s called “The Endless Mountains” for a good reason. I have no issues starting off. I also like the fact that I’m not downshifting on every hill either. The 4 gears are evenly spaced as well. Another thing, driveshaft speed is kept down.
I have a WR Toploader with 3.00 gears, I am curious about your engine specifications, was it built for torque? It is currently off the road, but I have a basically stock rebuilt 68MY 302 with 260H comp cam,. When it was on the road it had a Performer with 600 Edelbrock with manifolds and 2" duals. I have since sold those, added a Performer RPM, 500 Edelbrock, JBA mid lengths and 2.5" exhaust... I cannot wait to see how it runs
I have a WR Toploader with 3.00 gears, I am curious about your engine specifications, was it built for torque? It is currently off the road, but I have a basically stock rebuilt 68MY 302 with 260H comp cam,. When it was on the road it had a Performer with 600 Edelbrock with manifolds and 2" duals. I have since sold those, added a Performer RPM, 500 Edelbrock, JBA mid lengths and 2.5" exhaust... I cannot wait to see how it runs
It has a junk yard GT40P, 91 Mustang 5.0 cam, headers, Wieand Stealth with a yard shed 600 Edelbrock. So yeah, I guess a little bit built for torque. It pulls hard to 5500. It has no problem with the 2.8’s. I like them a lot more then I thought. Gear it for how you drive and you’ll be fine. Are you drag racing at WOT and being timed every time you start from a stop? These are light cars too. The 3.00 is probably the ideal set up.
Besides you’ll keep your driveshaft speed down, less heat and friction from the gears along with smoother drive line.
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