Battery relocation planning: How many feet and what wire did you use? - Page 5 - Vintage Mustang Forums
 76Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #61 of 71 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Granite Bay, California, 5 minutes from Folsom Lake
Posts: 534
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by hus65 View Post
Fair call with the disconnect. I didn't install it as an emergency disconnect, it is purely there for disconnecting the battery when the car is sitting for a while as I have some parasitic loss with some of my electrics.
If I install an emergency one down the track is will be a remote type which can be accessed without opening the trunk.
I had a pair of lower priced Auto Zone AGM batteries in my duramax diesel. It'd sometimes be parked, waiting for weekend play for a couple weeks and the batteries would always go dead. This summer I replaced both with the outstanding Odyssey Extreme pure lead AGM batteries, and what do you know? They don't self discharge anymore, weeks on end.
Fishfreq is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #62 of 71 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 08:47 AM
Senior Member
 
green1965's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: AZ
Posts: 958
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishfreq View Post
I'm just gonna add my two cents on batteries since I see people comparing Odyssey vs Optima batteries; they really are like apples and oranges, with the only similarity being that they use 'AGM' electrolyte suspension. Odyssey uses 99% pure virgin lead, and because such they can make the plates thinner for higher CCA's per group size, and because of the pure lead, they can also be deep drawn for reserve power. They're the only real dual purpose high-CCA and deep cycle batteries. Pure lead also LASTS LONGER. Like years and years longer. More dependable. I'm running dual Odyssey Extremes in my Duramax diesel and they crank SO much faster than a couple sets of cheaper lead alloy AGM's, including Optimas, before. Also use an Extreme in my boat because the Mercury 225 V6 needs high MCA's.

Which brings us to Optima batteries: yes they're 'AGM', however, they're a less expensive (and lighter) lead alloy. Being a lead alloy, the plates must be made thicker, for strength, which in turn reduces CCA's. Being an alloy, not pure lead, reduces lifespan, therefore dependability. You'll get higher CCA's out of an old flooded lead battery. The only thing pure about an Optima is its 'spiral cell design'; pure marketing. It is unique looking, and light weight to their own detriment, but other than that, the 6-pack footprint just reduces the amount of lead that can fill a given space.

My point is, which ever AGM you chose, pick 'pure lead'. Go smaller if you must, but don't buy a lead acid battery because it's light. Go Odyssey, Northstar, Fullriver Full Throttle, and rebranded variations of the above, thin plate pure lead tech. You won't be disappointed. Any other lead alloy 'AGM' is a compromise in too many ways.
Optima claims they are made of 99.99% pure lead. The Odyssey looks like a good battery for cheaper though.
https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-u...-of-innovation
Fishfreq likes this.

65 coupe, M-6007-X302 340 hp crate engine
Street Or Track front Bilstein coilover system

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=7HztIgJymNw
green1965 is offline  
post #63 of 71 (permalink) Old 12-23-2018, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Granite Bay, California, 5 minutes from Folsom Lake
Posts: 534
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by green1965 View Post
Optima claims they are made of 99.99% pure lead. The Odyssey looks like a good battery for cheaper though.
https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-u...-of-innovation
I'm guessing that's a recent new change, because the optima's that I had did NOT perform like pure lead Odysseys, and their lit back then did NOT say Pure Lead anywhere.

Notice this 'new' Optima that does away from the whole Optima 'spiral cell' moniker and uses straight square cells like good batteries ! The case still has bulges 'as if' it's a sprial cell but it's NOT. "If you can't lick em, join em!!"

New Optima PureFlow batteries
Fishfreq is offline  
 
post #64 of 71 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019, 12:37 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 183
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by dobrostang View Post
So here is the scoop. in my setup, there is no fuse on the starter loop between the solenoid to the starter because its only energized when your finger is on the key in start mode. I mounted the solenoid on the outboard side of the passenger trunk hinge where no-one would know its there. The fusable link I put up on the alternator battery lead where most old GM cars have 'em. You want the link to be close to the alternator source so if you have a short and it blows house power fuse, the alternator won't keep pumping power into a grounded system. For years I ran the solenoid on the fender with the battery in the trunk but at some point someone on this site enlightened us as to the foolishness of having a 1/0 size lead that is hot 24/7 running the length of the car. On a good side impact or any number of a 1000 incidents of cutting and/or burning through sub 1/16" of rubber insulation, you will have major "issues" and your local fireman will be looking under the hood with a serious prybar to lever the lead off the battery only to discover (if he is smart) that its in a locked trunk buried in a battery box - whilst you and those close to you could be in peril - say perhaps with a steering spear buried in a lung...

For bonus points I offer that when I switched over to the solenoid in the trunk I pulled out about 6 to 8 feet of heavy 1/0 cable out of the car. I only had to run 1/0 from the battery to the starter instead of all the way to the solenoid then back down to the starter. I was about to purchase a hi-torque starter cause my car would turn over very slowly. Eliminating all that wire made my car start so much better I stuck with a stock starter. BIG difference.

The 180 amp fuse is inline by the battery on the house power line that goes forward. I can post pics this weekend if you need. If I remember right I ran # 8 or 10 (which ever is bigger) fine strand wire for house power. Got it from a stereo store, its used to power amplifiers for Rap music ;o)...

Hope that helps.
I'd love to see more detail on how you have this setup when you get a chance!
-Rob

An Aussie kid living in LA.....

My '66 Coupe Project Journal
TheDraytone is offline  
post #65 of 71 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 10:46 PM
Senior Member
 
mikeyhunts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: HOUSTON
Posts: 1,068
I’d be curious to read, hear, see pics how everyone ran house power from trunk battery to front to some sort of junction box that all sorts of electronic hook to via relays...

Like dual fans, electric water pump, halogen lights, mad box etc.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mikeyhunts is offline  
post #66 of 71 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 02:12 AM
Senior Member
Supporting Member
 
66_72stanger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: So Cal
Posts: 349
Not sure of the cable length but can measure when I get home if need be on 7/22.
Did this on our 65 fab & 66 vert.

Relocated battery and solenoid to trunk passenger side.
Ran 1/0 gauge cable from stater to trunk along the frame rail/subframe connector then up through trunk floor to solenoid. With solenoid moved to trunk starter cable is only energized when cranking motor over.
Ran 1/0 gauge ground cable from battery through trunk floor to stud welded to frame rail.

Ran an 8/0 gauge wire from solenoid under carper p/s through firewall under heater box to solenoid “buss block” at original solenoid firewall location.

Installed single wire 140amp alternator-power output wire to the firewall buss block.
Installed 5 20amp relays on firewall at original e/b battery location.
#1 for h/b headlights, #2 for L/b headlights, #3 for electric fan, #4 for electric fuel pump, #5 Msd box.

Load now from dash switches to relay bar less than 1amp.
Voltage at devices now 14 volts or better.

Ran a 1/0 gauge cable from p/s bellhousing bolt to firewall for additional ground.
Sleeved 2 feet of cable at stater to battery with thermal sock given procsemity to header.

Employed fusible links at buss block and solenoid in trunk.
Solid copper cable ends at starter and solenoid.
All other ring connectors were tinned solid cooper pieces.

Very minimal residence in these circuits.
No real measurable voltage drop.


Actually only 4 relays on 66, mechanical fuel pump setup.

Rubber gourmets where ever cable or wires ran through sheet metal a must imho.


Could not find a descent battery box so made one from 1/4” aluminum.
After all welded up it was polished.
Top was cut so as to fit flush on all sides.
Drilled two 1/4” holes on d/s & p/s of box about 3/4” below top.
Ran 1/4” round stock through box flush with o/d of box.
Drilled 1/16” holes in top just above these 1/4” round stock.
Pulled 1/16” round stock out of one side on inch or so and “strung two eye bolts front and back
Then crumped them to round stock so as to line up with holes drilled in top plate.
Top plate then secured with wing nuts,
.

Hope this gives you a couple of good ideas.
Let me know if you need cable measurements a week from now.

Good luck.
66_72stanger is offline  
post #67 of 71 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 09:18 AM
Senior Member
 
mikeyhunts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: HOUSTON
Posts: 1,068
Quote:
Originally Posted by 66_72stanger View Post
Not sure of the cable length but can measure when I get home if need be on 7/22.

Did this on our 65 fab & 66 vert.



Relocated battery and solenoid to trunk passenger side.

Ran 1/0 gauge cable from stater to trunk along the frame rail/subframe connector then up through trunk floor to solenoid. With solenoid moved to trunk starter cable is only energized when cranking motor over.

Ran 1/0 gauge ground cable from battery through trunk floor to stud welded to frame rail.



Ran an 8/0 gauge wire from solenoid under carper p/s through firewall under heater box to solenoid “buss block” at original solenoid firewall location.



Installed single wire 140amp alternator-power output wire to the firewall buss block.

Installed 5 20amp relays on firewall at original e/b battery location.

#1 for h/b headlights, #2 for L/b headlights, #3 for electric fan, #4 for electric fuel pump, #5 Msd box.



Load now from dash switches to relay bar less than 1amp.

Voltage at devices now 14 volts or better.



Ran a 1/0 gauge cable from p/s bellhousing bolt to firewall for additional ground.

Sleeved 2 feet of cable at stater to battery with thermal sock given procsemity to header.



Employed fusible links at buss block and solenoid in trunk.

Solid copper cable ends at starter and solenoid.

All other ring connectors were tinned solid cooper pieces.



Very minimal residence in these circuits.

No real measurable voltage drop.





Actually only 4 relays on 66, mechanical fuel pump setup.



Rubber gourmets where ever cable or wires ran through sheet metal a must imho.





Could not find a descent battery box so made one from 1/4” aluminum.

After all welded up it was polished.

Top was cut so as to fit flush on all sides.

Drilled two 1/4” holes on d/s & p/s of box about 3/4” below top.

Ran 1/4” round stock through box flush with o/d of box.

Drilled 1/16” holes in top just above these 1/4” round stock.

Pulled 1/16” round stock out of one side on inch or so and “strung two eye bolts front and back

Then crumped them to round stock so as to line up with holes drilled in top plate.

Top plate then secured with wing nuts,

.



Hope this gives you a couple of good ideas.

Let me know if you need cable measurements a week from now.



Good luck.


Great write up.
Exactly what I had in my head as plans.
Already have buss bar, relay block etc.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mikeyhunts is offline  
post #68 of 71 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 06:22 PM
Senior Member
 
mikeyhunts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: HOUSTON
Posts: 1,068
Got my kit in, mounting plate done, and the box all mounted up.
It’s got a 3/8 aluminum plate directly mounted to the frame rails with four 7/16 grade 8 bolts.
It ain’t going ANYWHERE!!

Going to go ahead and incorporate a battery disconnect switch.
It’s all tight, but it fit.....
Pardon all the dirty aluminum.
It will shine like a diamond in a goats butt when all finished.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mikeyhunts is offline  
post #69 of 71 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 11:37 PM
Senior Member
 
bmcgc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Georgia
Posts: 2,162
Go to the Pull-A-Part and grab the cable off a 5 series BMW.

The Germans figured it out years ago, no need to reinvent the wheel.
Fishfreq likes this.


1965 Mustang Coupe 289/C4
1967 Mustang Coupe 200/C4
2017 Mustang EB Premium
bmcgc is offline  
post #70 of 71 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 12:31 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tunkhannock PA
Posts: 19,887
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hemikiller View Post
I didn't relocate my battery, so I can't help with the wire lengths. However, I did use 1/0 welding cable for my battery leads. The "kits" tend to use low strand count wire that is very stiff, welding cable is very flexible and has a tough, abrasion resistant insulation jacket. Bought it by the foot from Mcmaster-Carr, along with the lugs and terminals. Crimped and soldered the whole deal, with adhesive lined heat shrink to finish.

What he said. Welding cable is very fine strand for flexibility. Wire insulation is not created equally, it depends on application. Welding cable insulation is designed for harsh conditions and should work well. Someone will chime in and mention the skin effect where the current travels around the outside of each strand and fine strand conducts better. This is not relevant in DC.
Huskinhano is offline  
post #71 of 71 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 02:30 AM
Senior Member
 
mikeyhunts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: HOUSTON
Posts: 1,068
66-72.....

I’d be interested to hear/see how you did your junction box for the house power spot.
Where is it?

And the wires that trigger the starter solenoid.
How did you extend /reroute those?

Pics would be awesome.
I’m tackling this tomorrow.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mikeyhunts is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome