These aren't my kinda vibes - Page 3 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #31 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Nailbender View Post
I find myself in the similar position as you on my upgraded 8" rear end. New TJ center section, new Moser axles, and in my case it works fine but I am at a dead end on installing a 3 link and have $1500 in the 8" setup. Had I known I was going to catch the racing disease I would have started with a big tube 9"!
I caught a good deal on a 9 with the old style big bearing ends in the right length for the stang.. I've found some 31 spline axles too. I'll need a centre and some brakes when the pocketbook allows and I'll be ordering from Shaun! Its just a slow process as money these days is scarce. Had to drop $$ on new tires for the daily and replace the dishwasher my soon to be ex wife broke.
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post #32 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Check the dynamic balance of your brake drums individually. Way cheaper than a new set of skins. My gremlin was an out of balance brand new brake drum from a reliable vendor. I couldn't drive 74 mph for years till I figured it out. Good luck.
We spun the new raybestos drums and they were good. No change from the previous ones either in vibration..
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post #33 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Shaun!

I've got a steel shaft that was built and balanced to 4k rpm locally. Far more than this shaft should ever turn.. but I do keep hearing of people swapping to aluminum which dampens better. Better critical speed Someone else mentioned that 28oz motors through the t5 sometimes create a harmonic that is also solved with aluminum shafts... Perhaps if this round of 'fixes' doesn't go in my favour I'll be getting a shaft and probably the 3 link from you. I mean might as well right. You have options for rear Brakes for a 9in old big bearing right?

The post with pinion angles is old info. We've tried a couple of different spots to see if it liked anything different. Currently have a spacer in the trans mount so we could go to 3.3 up (pinion) and 3.4 down (trans) No change from the past 2.6-2.7!

The 8in in the cars axle tube is almost 1.5cm bent. No wonder it was eating wheel bearings. Hopefully that is the source of this vibe thats been troubling me

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Originally Posted by Shaun View Post
What kind of driveshaft are you using? I didn't see mention in the thread.

We build a 3" dia. aluminum shaft with CNC machined forged aluminum yokes. The vibration dampening of the aluminum shafts has fixed a few customers issues when they switched from steel.

Also, I like to run my pinion angle in the 3-4 degree range. Equal and opposite. Engine down, pinion up.

Wheels, tires, bent axles, trans., engine, lots of rotating parts that can cause vibrations. Sounds like you are working your way through it!
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post #34 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 02:52 PM
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Thanks Shaun!

I've got a steel shaft that was built and balanced to 4k rpm locally. Far more than this shaft should ever turn.. but I do keep hearing of people swapping to aluminum which dampens better. Better critical speed Someone else mentioned that 28oz motors through the t5 sometimes create a harmonic that is also solved with aluminum shafts... Perhaps if this round of 'fixes' doesn't go in my favour I'll be getting a shaft and probably the 3 link from you. I mean might as well right. You have options for rear Brakes for a 9in old big bearing right?

The post with pinion angles is old info. We've tried a couple of different spots to see if it liked anything different. Currently have a spacer in the trans mount so we could go to 3.3 up (pinion) and 3.4 down (trans) No change from the past 2.6-2.7!

The 8in in the cars axle tube is almost 1.5cm bent. No wonder it was eating wheel bearings. Hopefully that is the source of this vibe thats been troubling me
You do NOT want to go UP with the pinion... you want to go DOWN. D-O-W-N as in pointed to the ground.
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post #35 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 06:52 PM
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I remember in 1980 working at a tire place in Ocala that did on vehicle tire balancing using the machine pictured below. While the electric motor was spinning the wheel at speed you would adjust using the 4 little round knobs at the end of the rim adapter the amount and position on the rim of the necessary weight by grabbing them with your bare hand while they were spinning. Looking back, that was friggin stupid! Hopefully the practice has advanced since then.

I actually have that wheel balancer. They work awesome! Unfortunately I only have the 13",14"&15" wheel adapters.
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post #36 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 07:06 PM
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As @Woodchuck we said, you want to go down, not up on pinion angle. They need to be at complimentary angles and with in 3 under normal use. As you apply torque to the rear axle, the pinion angle is going to rise. So if it's adjusted just sitting, it's going to be not at good operating angle. You need to go lower for what looks like a wrong angle.

Here is a really great demistration of universal joint operation. As far as changing the rear yoke you could have just bought a 1310/1320 combination. Very common and cheap.

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post #37 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 07:17 PM
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You do NOT want to go UP with the pinion... you want to go DOWN. D-O-W-N as in pointed to the ground.
Pinion down sounds so wrong but it is indeed right especially in a leaf spring car when all the angles change a bunch when a load is applied. Didn't believe it when I first heard it. Theoretically the engine and trans run parallel with rear axle under load but the pinion climbs as as you hit the gas.

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post #38 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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Guys.. Its NOT PINION ANGLE! Yes I'm aware I typed that post out wrong. The car was on it's wheels at ride height each and every time. I've gone through and measured pinion angles multiple times, Chassisworks has gone through it, Pats Driveline has gone through it. Pinion angle on the car is FINE! We simply tried adding some to at pats when they rebalanced the shaft to see if that changed anything. it didn't make a lick of difference whatsoever.

The car was hit in the 90's.. thats what resulted in the rear quarter being replaced and the car being painted. Thats why the drivers axle flange was bent. Thats why it had new wheels on it. Thats 99% the reason why the axle housing is bent. I'm still shaking my head that it wasn't caught when IWE went through the whole thing. You can see it with bare eyes when the rear end is out of the car.

I did not want to run a combo joint. IIRC its now a 1330.
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post #39 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 09:13 PM
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post #40 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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I appreciate the response, but it's just been gone over and over and over again and again. It was the first thing that got sorted. I knew with the T5 in the car it was going to be a potential culprit. I've driven myself crazy with it. I was even tempted to put the car on the dyno and run it up to 75mph under load and look to see just how much change there was and whether or not that was causing it. We did run it up on a set of stands and watched. Safety third right? haha I just feel burnt out.

As an aside, I believe the crank and rods/pistons are back from being balanced.

I'm off to my US mailbox tomorrow to pick up a pile of other parts for it.

Saw Blair this AM and my 8in was up on the bench and into his jig. Told me he'd have it done sometime next week.
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post #41 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 01:02 PM
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Oh come on now. You know this is the VFM and that's what we do best. Beat posts to death.
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