Torque Box install question - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-03-2019, 02:18 AM Thread Starter
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Torque Box install question

I am installing torque boxes in my '67 coupe. My floors are in new and solid. I have the CJ two piece boxes. One of the pieces is supposed to "mate" to the floor toe board area. My question is whether this piece of the torque box is really necessary. It would be a lot easier to just install the 90 degree-like piece of the box. Does the flat "mated" piece of the torque box truly add any additional strength?
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-03-2019, 08:59 AM
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That inner portion of the box adds a lot of strength since it gets welded to the frame rail, toe board and inner rocker panel. It provides a much more solid and rigid foundation for the top piece as well. Without it the only strength where it would be welded to your toe board would be minimal. The inner piece also has the flange that needs to be welded to the outer piece.

Last edited by Caper50; 01-03-2019 at 09:11 AM.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-03-2019, 01:52 PM
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Last year I put torque boxes in my 66. I bought the Spectra 1 piece assembly. You did the smart thing by buying the two piece. On the outer edge of the toe board sections on mine I refilled the lip that welds to the rocker side 180* so I didn’t have to cut a slit in the existing toe board and weld inside the car. My floors are in very good shape, I didn’t want to cut them. Take your time in getting them to fit right goes a long way. I used zip screws with fender washers to hold everything in place while I welded. I also used weld through primer. If I had to do it again, I wouldn’t use the weld through primer on any surface that you were welding. I thought it made welding a little more fiddly. I would make a couple test passes on some clean sheet metal to set my welder up but it didn’t want to weld smoothly or easily. Could very well just be me. At least the rest of the hidden metal. I also used 3M cavity wax with a spray wand to coat the inside with anti rust protection.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice. I will use the inner piece that mates to the floor/toe board. Using screws to hold panels in place is a great idea. Thanks!

Last edited by 67 460Stang; 01-08-2019 at 09:25 PM.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 01:20 AM
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I recently installed the two piece 68 style Dynacorn torque boxes onto my 65 Fastback. I had to do a little trimming and also used sheet metal screws to hold everything in place. I chose to invert the lip on the upper pieces as they would normally protrude up through the floor. I used a floor jack when needed to persuade the metal for a better fit. I used weld through etching primer, but would also remove any paint for the plug weld. I also coated the interior of the torque boxes with rubberized undercoating for additional corrosion protection. Best of luck.

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 67 460Stang View Post
It would be a lot easier to just install the 90 degree-like piece of the box. Does the flat "mated" piece of the torque box truly add any additional strength?
The key word here is "box". Torque boxes are common in car, truck, and aircraft construction.

Try this: Get a cardboard box, and use a hot glue gun to seal all the flaps in place. Now try to twist it. Now cut the top off, and try to twist it. Which would you rather drive?

Fun fact: The Cowl of the Mustang is a large torque box which joins the left and right side of the car together.

Amateur restorer. Well, sometimes I have been paid for it. But not right now.
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