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Vinegar as a rust remover

3K views 19 replies 13 participants last post by  bmcgc 
#1 ·
This bracket was pretty rusty, some pitting.

Two days in a vinegar bath and it looks pretty good.

The vinegar also stripped what was left of the paint off.

Im pretty pleased with the results.
 

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#2 ·
now you can make rusty pickles. Just kidding. If it works then it works. Cheaper than evaporust.
 
#8 ·
I just used Evaporust for the first time. Check out these front leaf spring bolts after about 24 hours in the solution. (Ignore the longer shiny bolt, CJPP sent those with my new springs, obviously not the right ones, so took a pic to show them).

Before:


After:
 
#12 ·
Update: After trying out vinegar in an oil drain pan I poured 4 gallons into a Walmart blue tote with a snap on top. I dumped a bunch of rusty parts in and closed the lid. Not all the parts were immersed.

48 hours later I pulled everything out and the parts that were not in vinegar were just as clean as those that were.

Now Im thinking that I only need a gallon in a sealed container.

I coated everything I removed in naval jelly to finish up the heavily pitted areas. Tomorrow I will finish cleaning them up and prime.

This has been much less work than sanding, wire wheeling or blasting.

Ive got batch #2 going and will have probably 2 more batches after that.
 
#14 ·
Be sure to neutralize the acid after you are done . Even the naval jelly is acidic. If one doesn't neutralize the acid the paint will not adhere correctly.

Vinegar works fine, the only problem I have comes later. As Z pointed out you have to dry it immediately otherwise it will rust again. Sometimes I don't have the time to work on the parts after I removed the rust. Here Evaporust is great. Just dip it into (clean) Evaporust and let it air dry. It protects well for a couple of days (maybe weeks?).
^^^^^^ +1

After the acid bath, a quick rinse and dip in a baking soda and water solution will neutralize the remaining acid on the part. Then blow dry it with a common hair dryer set on HOT. It's best to paint or powdercoat the parts without delay once they'd are dry. Flash rust is hard to avoid with de-rusted parts if they sit unprotected too long.

Z
 
#13 ·
Vinegar works fine, the only problem I have comes later. As Z pointed out you have to dry it immediately otherwise it will rust again. Sometimes I don't have the time to work on the parts after I removed the rust. Here Evaporust is great. Just dip it into (clean) Evaporust and let it air dry. It protects well for a couple of days (maybe weeks?).
 
#16 ·
Regular cheap-o white vinegar.

I rinsed in hot water, then hit the parts with the heat gun. I could have primed right then, but didnt have time. (Taco Tuesday)

So I coated with naval jelly to hold them until tomorrow.
 
#19 ·
WD 40 is an option. I've used a product called Prelube 6 in the past. Its a cable and chain lubricant/rust inhibitor. I hear its kinda hard to find anymore and you have to reapply it once or twice a year. When I run out I'm switching to Corrosion X HD. CorrosionX Heavy Duty It's probably a better product.


The caswell site may give you some other ideas too. I've used some of their plating kits in the past for nuts, bolts and other small parts. There's a learning curve but it's kinda fun when you get into it.


https://www.caswellplating.com/
 
#20 ·
Dropped my 250 block and crank off at the spa this morning.

They are getting a soak in degreeser then a soak in evaporust before the machine work.
 
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