Good deal for a T-5? - Vintage Mustang Forums
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 07:33 AM Thread Starter
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Good deal for a T-5?

As I was looking for parts, I stumbled on an ad for a T-5 and was wondering if its worth considering for the price. Main thing that made it stand out was that he has all the parts that go with the transmission, I've mostly seen just the transmission go for about the same price so figure it could save me a few hundred on the swap.

It was out of an 88 GT 302 car, and I would be looking to put it behind a 351W. I currently have a c-4 in the car. So I think that means that I should be able to use the bellhousing and clutch fork he has. I know I'll need the z-bar setup/clutch pedal, some wiring/speedo cable, and to figure out the cross member. Then if its a 157 tooth flywheel can I use the same starter? Is there anything else major I'd need?

Also, is there anyway to know the condition of the transmission looking at it or will it be a crapshoot?

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 07:49 AM
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I think it is a pretty good deal. The T-5 I purchased for my 69 Coupe several years ago came out of a 87 GT & I got it the same way, trans, bell housing, flywheel, clutch, & fork, IIRC mine cost me $400. I purchased a trans crossmember & I went with a hydraulic set up from modern drive line. I do not know of any way to check the condition without opening it up, when I purchased my T-5 I shifted the trans through the gears with the trans on the ground & it shifted smoothly, but I do not know if that is a good test or not.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MikeG69 View Post
I think it is a pretty good deal. The T-5 I purchased for my 69 Coupe several years ago came out of a 87 GT & I got it the same way, trans, bell housing, flywheel, clutch, & fork, IIRC mine cost me $400.
So the bellhousing and flywheel worked fine as is? What kind of engine do you have? Also, what did you do for a starter?

Thanks!
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 08:54 AM
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Most of them in my area, midwest, have been priced w/out all those extras for $400 - $600. Not sure I'd reuse the clutch as prob best to just replace with new before installing. Decent deal if nothing wrong with the trans. Get a tag # so you can tell what gen and such for sure it is.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 08:56 AM
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The flywheel for a 88 302 does not have the correct balance for a 351W. You will need a 157 tooth flywheel with a 28oz balance.
You will also need a separator plate for a 87-93 mustang 5.0. Although your C4 separator plate might work.
For a starter, any 87-95 mustang starter will work.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 10:19 AM
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The Mustang flywheel wonít work as mentioned. Since youíre going to need a new flywheel there are several on the market such as the PRW Iím using. It uses a bolt on weight so it can easily be adapted to any sbf engine. What I like about it also is that itís drilled for every sbf pressure plate. This means if the clutch that comes with the trans is in good shape, you can use it saving some money.

Any 157 tooth starter will work

Tom

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 11:37 AM
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I think "crapshoot" accurately describes the situation. It's possible you can bolt in that T-5 and it's good to go. Just be aware a typical Fox Body Mustang T-5 will have many, many miles on it. So, it's also possible that trans is simply worn out.

Wanted to make sure you're also aware bolting a T-5 behind a 351W can also be a crapshoot. Lots of people get away with it, but your 351W is technically too much engine for that trans. If it's a stock or mildly modified engine, you'll probably be OK. 408 stroker with Aluminum heads and a badass cam? No way.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Klutch View Post
I think "crapshoot" accurately describes the situation. It's possible you can bolt in that T-5 and it's good to go. Just be aware a typical Fox Body Mustang T-5 will have many, many miles on it. So, it's also possible that trans is simply worn out.
This what I was worried about. So I was trying to figure out what would be the most likely issues. I figure if it shifts smoothly and the gears look like they're not chewed up it should be ok.

Wanted to make sure you're also aware bolting a T-5 behind a 351W can also be a crapshoot. Lots of people get away with it, but your 351W is technically too much engine for that trans. If it's a stock or mildly modified engine, you'll probably be OK. 408 stroker with Aluminum heads and a badass cam? No way.[/QUOTE]

I have a stock 351W that was bored 40 over and I'm not racing or driving all that aggressively, so hopefully this will be ok too.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by massmustang69 View Post
So the bellhousing and flywheel worked fine as is? What kind of engine do you have? Also, what did you do for a starter?

Thanks!
The T-5 I purchased is going behind a lightly modified 5.0. My engine has not been run yet & I have yet to order a starter for it.

2000 Ranger 4X4 (my DD)
1999 Explorer Sport (wife's DD)
2008 Escape (spare)
1969 Mustang Coupe (project)
2014 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom (wife's toy)
Build thread; http://www.newyorkmustangs.com/forum...cs-t15096.html
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 12:09 AM
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Here's the write up I did converting my 69 c4 mustang to t-5 https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/m...-write-up.html

it will help you with getting a stock z-bar to work which is what I did as well as other general stuff. The 94-98 3.8 v6 mustangs were rated to the same torque capacity as some of the 5.0 years. I pulled my t-5 out of a 98 v6 at a pull your part for 150 bucks. You should use the fox bell housing for the z-bar conversion as the sn95 bell housing has the clutch arm at a much different angle. you must swap the input shaft on the trans to use the fox bell, as detailed in my write up. you may also use a 4-speed bell with an adapter. You can't use the 5.0 imbalance flywheel you need a 28oz imbalance. The only things useful to you there are the trans and the bell housing. I bought a luk standard replacement flywheel off rockauto LUK LFW451 for $65. This was a 10" replacement flywheel for stock 69 mustang 302's, 28oz. Rockauto lists the 351 as having an 11" flywheel, i'm not familiar with 351's so i don't know if this is accurate. I don't know that you could use the fox bell with an 11" flywheel. I can't see why not. If you are really not planning to beat on the car you can maybe get away with the 302 flywheel if it bolts up. Hell, if you use a stock 302 clutch with the intents of not doing clutch dropping burnouts, perhaps the stock clutch would slip before allowing you to hurt the t-5. I was able to use the c4 driveshaft no modifications. Slipped right into the t-5 without need cut or lengthened. original 69 c4 starter worked perfectly fine. I think you should be cautious about sticking a t5 behind your 351. Even the z-spec is only a 300ft lbish capacity. here's a chart showing different years of mustang t5's and their ratings.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Scarlet-302 View Post
Here's the write up I did converting my 69 c4 mustang to t-5 https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/m...-write-up.html

it will help you with getting a stock z-bar to work .
Scarlet-302, that was an awesome write up and very detailed. I went and looked at my car to see about the frame bracket for the Z-bar but they don't seem to be there... I took over this project from someone else and I'm thinking they replaced the frame rails with ones that don't have the mounting points for the Z-bar included. Because of this I was looking at a cable clutch kit which I think lets me use the fork that comes with it. I'm not as worried as sticking to stock and more so with what will be easier, so am ok not using the z-bar, not sure if there was anything else that drove you to do that setup.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 05:38 PM
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If you do a cable clutch, stick with stock manifolds or shorty headers.
If you want long tube headers, get the hydraulic clutch setup.

I’m switching from a C4 to a T5. No factory clutch linkage or brackets to work with. I also have long tube headers.
So it’s hydraulic clutch for me.

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 07:03 PM
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I have DAZE hydraulic clutch setup in mine. Its LIGHTYEARS nicer than any of the cable clutch cars I've driven. Also allows room for other things which the cables don't.
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