Security on a '69 - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-01-2019, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by FrankieThe69Kid View Post
I put the rotor in my pocket.
Did that too, but the rotor in my distributor (msd pro billet) is secured with two screws, making it a PITA do pull

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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 12:45 AM
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Pfffff I leave mine places all the time. I drive it work, where I fly away and leave it for days at a time. It's a car....
With over 400,000 miles of driving, I'm afraid I'd be a basket case if I worried as much as some do. I have found the closest thing to a good security system for old mustangs 64-66, 69-70. For years, I installed Chapman locks in them. The pin engages the hood latch mechanism and a wire grounds the ignition. Sure they can still tow it, but no way they can open the hood or hotwire it. Today's version is the Z-Lok. We threw away the bracket they supplied and it was supposed to attach to the radiator support and another on the hood. Instead, we drilled into the hood latch support and into the latch itself. For the 69-70, we drilled into the top of the radiator support, into the latch as it was sideways from a 64-66 latch.
Since I drive a convert, there's no use locking the doors, especially since my top is never up and even if it was, why have them cut the top. Just leave the doors open. For around $100 and a few hours, there really isn't a better system for old cars, short of spending a lot of $$.
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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 07:46 AM
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My security is my insurance company and being smart about where I leave the car. I also do not live in an area where its much of a big deal although I left it all over San Francisco when I lived in the bay area. My buddies 69 was taken from Candlestick park, if their pros, they're gonna get the car. I have a hidden elect fuel pump switch to keep joy riders from getting more than 50 feet but otherwise, if its gone, I doubt I would / could replace it, probably blow the money on something else...

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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 01:31 PM
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Considering many pros steal cars on a flatbed, any anti-theft device is trivial. However, I installed an ignition immobilization system to prevent the amateurs and to at least slow anyone without a tow. Since I have an electronic ignition module (Pertronix Ignitor 3) and I have a 12v wire running from under dash to the coil, it was easy to re-route that wire under the dash to a hidden relay which has a wireless add-on. From the relay the wire continues to the coil. It's a kit I found on Amazon for wirelessly controlling a truck light bar, it's $30, and it includes everything to give you a wireless kill switch. I usually keep the key fob on my person when driving so if car-jacked, I can disable the car as they drive away.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've had this installed for the last few years and it's worked flawlessly. I made sure to hide the relay/wireless module up behind my glove box and the remote works at least 50 ft away. There's no visual/audio cue when it arms/disarms besides the metallic sound of the relay but otherwise I like it. I bought two of them so incase one fails but they are uniquely coded because one remote didn't work with the other under dash wireless module. However, I've double-sided taped the relay/wireless module under the dash and the wires plug into each so they're easy enough to swap if there's a failure.

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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by InOverMyHead View Post
No offense, but I think I'd avoid anything that locks the hood. If you have an engine compartment fire, you can kiss your baby goodbye.
One option I have found but requires a lot of work, How to Build a Custom Cable Hood Release - Modified Mustangs & Fords. Think I'll keep looking for an internal hood release though. If anyone knows of one, please chime in. Regards, Jim

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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Brent View Post
Considering many pros steal cars on a flatbed, any anti-theft device is trivial. However, I installed an ignition immobilization system to prevent the amateurs and to at least slow anyone without a tow. Since I have an electronic ignition module (Pertronix Ignitor 3) and I have a 12v wire running from under dash to the coil, it was easy to re-route that wire under the dash to a hidden relay which has a wireless add-on. From the relay the wire continues to the coil. It's a kit I found on Amazon for wirelessly controlling a truck light bar, it's $30, and it includes everything to give you a wireless kill switch. I usually keep the key fob on my person when driving so if car-jacked, I can disable the car as they drive away.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've had this installed for the last few years and it's worked flawlessly. I made sure to hide the relay/wireless module up behind my glove box and the remote works at least 50 ft away. There's no visual/audio cue when it arms/disarms besides the metallic sound of the relay but otherwise I like it. I bought two of them so incase one fails but they are uniquely coded because one remote didn't work with the other under dash wireless module. However, I've double-sided taped the relay/wireless module under the dash and the wires plug into each so they're easy enough to swap if there's a failure.

-Brent



Thanks for sharing the wireless switch. Do you have a hood lock too? If I want to steal a car, I would not deal with the ignition switch. Simply hot wire the coil to the battery...



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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 03:42 PM
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Thanks for sharing the wireless switch. Do you have a hood lock too? If I want to steal a car, I would not deal with the ignition switch. Simply hot wire the coil to the battery...
I do but only use them if parked longer term and out of sight. They're simple luggage cable locks which fit through the hood pin holes. Like I mentioned, a pro or someone familiar with Mustangs would be able to take the car. I'm just trying to stop the casual guy who breaks into the car and trys to hotwire it or jam a Ford key in the ignition and start it. If someone is carrying wire with them and knows how to go from the solenoid to coil, they're going to get the car. But that's why I have an agreed-upon insurance policy and I park the car in sight, when possible.

I primarily added this for when I was living in an apartment with shared, underground parking in downtown Los Angeles. It was a challenging area to get a flatbed into so I added this ignition device, a Club device that locked the steering wheel to the clutch pedal, a wheel boot, hood pin locks, and locking lug nuts. This would make it difficult to hotwire and difficult to maneuver out of my narrow parking space to get to a tow truck. I've since moved and have my own garage so I just disconnect my trunk-mounted battery when stored in the garage and I use the ignition immobilizer anytime I park somewhere out and about.

-Brent
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Last edited by Brent; 02-02-2019 at 03:51 PM.
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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 03:45 PM
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Here's some of items I used, all from Amazon
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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Wow, thanks everyone for the great responses. I'm pouring through them.


Brent: Your situation is exactly what I have. In DTLA, underground shared parking. It's pretty secure, but still want to be cautious.



How do you all feel about the Viper systems? I have a friend recommending one of the deluxe systems for the car.
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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 09:38 PM
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Here's some of items I used, all from Amazon
The steering wheel hook, I had that on my brand new 93 Mustang GT. It was stolen the 2nd day I had it. The thief froze the lock, then smashed it.

The over the tire lock, I have two of those on my trailer as all they need to do is remove the tire and put another on. They don't usually bring 2 spares.

Not sure what that one with the cable is.

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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by KMD View Post
Wow, thanks everyone for the great responses. I'm pouring through them.


Brent: Your situation is exactly what I have. In DTLA, underground shared parking. It's pretty secure, but still want to be cautious.



How do you all feel about the Viper systems? I have a friend recommending one of the deluxe systems for the car.
I have two independent alarm systems. A GPS tracker, and a Viper. Each has its own motion/shock sensor and siren. Each is wired to totally different triggers. The GPS has a built-in backup battery that can alert me if the battery is low/disconnected. The Viper has a limited range, but it has the motion sensor that chirps and notifies the remote if someone gets too close (about 6" in my case). None of this is visible anywhere on the car. Jumping the coil will on my car not work either.

The Chapman hood locks look good, but as I am trying to keep a showroom appearance, it is not what I want on my car.

If someone really wants the car, they are going to find a way to take it. For me, the less damage they do the better. I can track it with the GPS unit, and I will go after it.

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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 12:10 AM
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I had one in my 65 K GT convert and it went to shows all the time. Rarely did the judges ever notice there was a hood lock on it. My 64 was a test mule and has a few extra holes, but all of our other installs only had 1, it's a black cable and kinda blends into the car. For the loss of 1 point, I'd rather have the lock. And as for access, the barrel lock inside opens almost instantly when you turn the key.
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64 9/10 Convertible- 400,000 miles & counting (2nd owner)- Invited by Ford to SEMA-2014 Pony Drive Pace Car
57 Thunderbird- E-Bird 312 w/ 2 4bbl carbs. 3 speed w/ O/D
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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 10:05 AM
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I had one in my 65 K GT convert and it went to shows all the time. Rarely did the judges ever notice there was a hood lock on it. My 64 was a test mule and has a few extra holes, but all of our other installs only had 1, it's a black cable and kinda blends into the car. For the loss of 1 point, I'd rather have the lock. And as for access, the barrel lock inside opens almost instantly when you turn the key.
The 69/70 latch does not have that side bracket as your earlier Mustang has. Was one of your installs on a latch like or similar to this? I'd hope you can make it blend in better than Z-Lok's installation.



so they suggest you install the brackets on the radiator support and bottom of the hood.
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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 10:10 AM
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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by KMD View Post
Wow, thanks everyone for the great responses. I'm pouring through them.


Brent: Your situation is exactly what I have. In DTLA, underground shared parking. It's pretty secure, but still want to be cautious.



How do you all feel about the Viper systems? I have a friend recommending one of the deluxe systems for the car.
So I can't really talk about the Viper systems, or any complete aftermarket security system as I didn't really look at any in depth due to the price. However, if I was going to go the aftermarket route and I lived in a county (+ surrounding counties) where LowJack was used by law enforcement, that's probably the route I'd take.

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