Turning 302 by hand - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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Turning 302 by hand

I have a 302 pulled from a '90 mustang. It sat for 4 yrs and ive just got it running again. It started and ran fine about 10 times. Then one day didnt want to tien over and start. I tried a new starter, have a new battery. Checked all the wiring amd grounded the starter the block amd still nothing.

When i turn it by hand it iant easy and there is a point that gets hard and i can here something squeaking. Sounds like a rubber gasket rubbing on something.

Does anyone know of it should turn smoothly with the same effort?
What is a range of lbs ot should take to turn it by hand?
Thanks

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 12:29 PM
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It's not easy to turn a V8 by hand with the spark plugs installed. I would suggest you remove all 8 spark plugs and try again. This will give you a good idea if the engine is able to rotate smoothly without any interference.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Should the resistance stay the same? There is point when it gets really hard to turn.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 12:43 PM
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Should the resistance stay the same? There is point when it gets really hard to turn.
With the plugs installed, yes, that's perfectly normal. One of the cylinders is on the compression stroke and your fighting that compression.

If the engine becomes really hard to turn with all the spark plugs removed, THEN you know there's a problem. Again, with the spark plus removed, the engine should rotate pretty easily and smoothly.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 12:48 PM
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Every 90 degrees of rotation you should have a "hard spot" from compression, but you seem like you're putting some serious effort into turning it over. I would pull the plugs and see how it turns over. If you still have a hard spot, you'll need to start digging into it. It looks like you have the belt off, so that's out of the equation.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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I took the plugs out, it turns much easier and isnt getting hung up. With the plugs in it would get ready hard to turn when the timing was about 40* btdc then when it was 180* from that point
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wscott00 View Post
I took the plugs out, it turns much easier and isnt getting hung up. With the plugs in it would get ready hard to turn when the timing was about 40* btdc then when it was 180* from that point

If the engine spins freely with the plugs removed using the starter and you can hand turn and it's smooth, then the rotating assembly should be good.
I would verify your initial timing, verify the distributor is installed correctly, that is, #1 on the rotor at TDC is pointing to #1 on the cap and both intake and valves are closed. Just as a basic check.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 01:28 PM
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Is that squeak not just the belt?
Take the coil wire off and try to spin it with the starter while the plugs are out. It might blow some excess fuel out the plug holes as it might have been hydro locked.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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The squeak is the engine. I took the built off. With the plugs out, it cranks better but still slow or strained.

It had been starting everytime I tried, then one day it struggled to crank. It turned over and hasn't started since
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Here is it turn with out plugs then with plugs. I put a little has in the throttle body and it didnt want to start. I guess that means that there is a problem with the spark.

https://youtu.be/6pxRMBro8hU
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 03:15 PM
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Not to steal your post but about 3 months ago I bought a 65 6 cylinder and they drove it to my house about 2 miles and I started it a couple of times and moved it around the driveway. The engine compartment was covered with caked on oil and dirt so I cleaned it up and removed carb and valve cover, was turning engine by the belt/fan and for some reason I looked at the rockers and nothing is moving under the valve cover when I turn the motor and watching the lower pully turn ect. Time for a timing chain and gears I guess. Havent done a 6 bANGER IN YEARS! tHE FIRST MUSTANG CLASSIC I BOUGHT WAS AROUND 1979 in cin ohio- a 66 running 6 cyl convert for 4 hundred. Drove it on my service route for years and eventually had to do the timing chain and gears when it lost at least half its power. Just about all of my last working 20 years I drove classics that I would pickup cheap. Wes
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 06:14 PM
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I just refuse to believe that if it were running OK and not noisy when you shut it down that something mechanical would have broken, such as a piston ring, upon the next crank. hard to say without hearing it in person but thats the worst i would associate with that noise. I hear a scraping, or maybe around the flywheel
I'd have to try another starter from a big box store with easy returns or at least test yours (&battery) before i started tearing stuff apart. Those I have had go bad with zero notice or rhyme or reason .
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 07:48 PM
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Time for a timing chain? or maybe a complete set?
Some of the older engines had nylon tips on the sprockets. Once they get aged they become brittle and snap.
Timing sets are pretty cheap too. If you decide to swap it, get the double roller. "The only thing stronger than steel is more steel". Not sure who said it, but I think they were right.

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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So..... i have no spark. Im not getting a spark at the plugs. When i tried to test the msd box i didnt get spark on the coil that was on the car. Another coil i had laying around gave a weak spark.


So now im thinking the msd box or ignitoing coil. When i arch the green and purple wire im not getting s consistant arch to ground
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