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Rear Valance - Goodmark vs Scott Drake

4K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  Klutch 
#1 ·
I am considering a new rear valance w/ GT exhaust cutouts for my 66 Coupe, has anybody had any experience with those made by Goodmark or Scott Drake?

THank you,

Dan
 
#2 ·
#7 ·
Getting ready to post some pics on my build page of my Saturday project. I had to do some work on my Dynacorn version, about 1/2 inch on both sides. Actually stretched the quarters to fit the valance.
 
#3 ·
I bought the “improved” one from NPD

https://www.npdlink.com/product/valance-panel-rear-improved-repro-1-2mm-metal/151940?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3D40544-2D%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D

What I found was it didn’t fit well on either end. The top screwed in ok, but when I tried to bolt in th bottoms, it buckled. Lesson learned install the chrome trim and backup light to give it some rigidity. Also slot the screw holes as they don’t line up perfectly. The biggest issue turned out the mounting brackets. No matter how much I tighten the bolts they wouldn’t pull in. I carefully compared the brackets t9 the original valance and determined the brackets where in the wrong position and too far about from the valence. I cut them and reworded them and the fit was much better, if it was a show car I might have welded a bit on one side to get a perfect fit, but I thin’ it is now very close to the original figment.

I’ll post pics to better explain what I had to do. It was actually pretty easy once I figured out the problem.
 
#4 ·
Here are some pics to show how the brackets were not shaped or welded correctly and how some of the holes needed tweaking

Before cutting and welding the brackets





After





Holes for mounting





Finished

 
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#6 ·
I considered that, but decided it was easier to cut and weld the brackets. I just cut them in half. Repositioned the outward and lower then rewelded the two pieces together. Took about 30 mins. I figured cutting precise holes would take much longer on the curved valence. I was adding backup lights too so that was even more work.
 
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#8 ·
Neither of the above-mentioned suppliers are manufacturers.

Our "improved tooling" thicker valances come from the same manufacturer that Dynacorn buys them from. And yes, I constantly hear of fit issues here and there.

Our cheaper "regular-offering" valances are made by Golden Legion, and honestly, I haven't heard a gripe about one of those in awhile. Could the cheaper/thinner valance be a better fit?

If your car fits the bill dm289, let me know, and perhaps we can make arrangements to comparison-install.

Rick
NPD
 
#9 ·
Fwiw, I didnt think working the valance to fit was that big of a deal...then again, I've had to do some serious surgery to this car so it's all relative right?

Here's the excerpt from my build thread where I did the effort. I've fixed the pictures for this post:

Initial fit on the drivers side...passenger side was worse but I cant find the picture:


First thing I did was separate the ends from the valance. I used a body saw (fancy name for an air reciprocating saw) to keep as much of the valance as possible. I did this so I could keep the edge without having to get fancy with it. I then tacked the edge to the car. That way i could sure up the gaps the way i want...and I only have 2 hands...



Then it was just a matter of cutting metal to fill the gap. I did a small section at the bottom first since i was having trouble keeping the valance where I wanted it to appropriately fill the gap. I used a 90* grinder w/ 36 grit rolocs to shape the edges to fit.



Weld up the rest of the gap. If you're a mediocre welder like me, you'll have a lot to grind off...


I also relocated the mounting brackets on the inside. Drill out spot welds, mount to car, weld tabs to valance.
The other side wasnt nearly as bad but followed a similar plan. I didnt have to cut pieces to fill. The gap was close enough that I could just fill with wire.


I also ran a light under the welded gaps to make sure it was all welded. After I epoxy prime it I'll smooth it out with some fiberglass filler. I then finish smoothing with Evercoat rage.

I also elected to weld the valance to the car for a cleaner look which, if you want a picture of, I can get tonight.
 
#11 ·
I tried a few of them, and none fit well. "Luckily" I was doing a ton of metal work to the car anyways so taking up the gap wasn't a huge issue. But my GT chrome surrounds still don't fit well at all. Totally different radius to the panel. It's really annoying.
 
#12 ·
I originally was going to add metal to the valence and ended up adding it to the quarter itself, building a new mating surface. I think I have it where it will look like the original (hopefully better) but If it just won't mate up properly, I may weld mine together.
 

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#13 ·
You know what they say; nothing fits like the original. Every piece of after market sheet metal I bought was off a little from the Ford part. Most parts I had to de-construct and rebuild to fit, others were so far off, I just through them away and re-worked the original. And these were the parts marked "concourse" or "best fit" or "improved design". I am only buying original Ford parts.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I have owned a '71 fastback, a '69 Cougar and two '70 fastbacks. All of them had a factory rear valence when I bought them and none of those valences fit well.

I put a reproduction valence from NPD on the '70 Mach 1 I currently own and it fit OK; actually a little better than the factory valence. However, I wanted a better fit and welded on 1/8" welding rod to each side. It turned out pretty nice.

So, when you hear, "nothing fits like original", that may not mean the original fit really well. I'm old enough to have seen 65-70 Mustangs when they were fairly new and sheet metal gaps were FAR from perfect. And if you can find factory Ford parts here in 2019, good on you. I can't find much of anything so I guess they're all on the Unicorn Ranch?
 
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