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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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clutch recommendations

Finally getting close to motor installation time and realized I never bought a new clutch. Leaning toward either McLeod 75113 ($235) or 75213 ($292).

It looks like the only difference between them is the more expensive one has a ceramic disc. What is the benefit of that?

Both of them have reviews that say they are super stiff (probably the same pressure plate). That's fine with me - the unknown-brand clutch I had before was stiffer than a choir boy at a sorority pool party.

I know Centerforce is supposed to be the shiznit but I'm not spending $480.... and that one doesn't include the throwout bearing.

They also have a couple of Zoom kits.

I have a fairly hot 302, T-5z, 9" with a locker. Probably won't ever race (legally). What do y'all recommend?

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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 10:11 AM
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Sachs.

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 10:19 AM
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Check with MDL for their 10.5" hybrid organic or full Kevlar. The Kevlars, are not affected by oil, if any rear seal seepage.

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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Are 10" and 10.5" interchangeable? Is that only driven by the flywheel? My old clutch was 10" but I have a new flywheel.

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pollock View Post
Are 10" and 10.5" interchangeable? Is that only driven by the flywheel? My old clutch was 10" but I have a new flywheel.
"Interchangeable"? NO. Best practice dictates replacing both pressure plate and clutch as a matched set. Yes, these two should match. Do clean, and inspect the flywheel surface for unusual wear. Do replace the pilot bearing and check the throwout bearing as well.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 10:59 AM
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I have been very pleased with the longevity and clutch feel of my Centerforce. I don't recall the part number, but it's basically the centerforce that everyone used/uses on 5.0/T5 combos. I'm not sure if a 28oz flywheel (if that's what you have) would be different, but I don't see why it would.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenash View Post
Check with MDL for their 10.5" hybrid organic or full Kevlar. The Kevlars, are not affected by oil, if any rear seal seepage.
Maybe kevlar isn't affected by the disc sopping up oil, but oil between a disc and flywheel will ALWAYS have relevance on clutch performance.

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pollock View Post
Finally getting close to motor installation time and realized I never bought a new clutch. Leaning toward either McLeod 75113 ($235) or 75213 ($292).

It looks like the only difference between them is the more expensive one has a ceramic disc. What is the benefit of that?

Both of them have reviews that say they are super stiff (probably the same pressure plate). That's fine with me - the unknown-brand clutch I had before was stiffer than a choir boy at a sorority pool party.

I know Centerforce is supposed to be the shiznit but I'm not spending $480.... and that one doesn't include the throwout bearing.

They also have a couple of Zoom kits.

I have a fairly hot 302, T-5z, 9" with a locker. Probably won't ever race (legally). What do y'all recommend?
You don't need a whiz-bang Centerforce for a "fairly hot" 302.
Here's one for $270 that'll do the job and leave you $'s still for a throw-out bearing and pilot.....
Centerforce II Clutch Kits MST559000

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c.../model/mustang
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 12:14 PM
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My old 302 had a Rockauto close out special. If I wasn’t given a free King Cobra clutch kit, I would have reused my old one on my new motor. My flywheel is drilled for SAE and metric.

I’m probably making around 280 hp with mine. Imo a stock kit would be fine. The tires are going to spin long before the clutch slips. A light pressure plate is easier on the main thrust bearing too.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT289 View Post
Maybe kevlar isn't affected by the disc sopping up oil, but oil between a disc and flywheel will ALWAYS have relevance on clutch performance.

Good Point!

KenA..
64 1/2 Poppy Red Cvt. Resto-Mod
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskinhano View Post
My old 302 had a Rockauto close out special. If I wasnít given a free King Cobra clutch kit, I would have reused my old one on my new motor. My flywheel is drilled for SAE and metric.

Iím probably making around 280 hp with mine. Imo a stock kit would be fine. The tires are going to spin long before the clutch slips. A light pressure plate is easier on the main thrust bearing too.
+1

Never found the need for a crazy pressure setup. The factory Long has always served me well, just buy a new known good brand. I've worn a couple out, but never had slippage issues. If you plan on drag racing with slicks, that's when you need to upgrade your clutch.

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenash View Post
"Interchangeable"? NO. Best practice dictates replacing both pressure plate and clutch as a matched set. Yes, these two should match. Do clean, and inspect the flywheel surface for unusual wear. Do replace the pilot bearing and check the throwout bearing as well.
I wasn't suggesting mixing and matching a 10" disc with a 10.5" plate, or vise versa. Just trying to understand what determines which diameter I need. I assume it's the flywheel.

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 01:37 PM
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I'm using a Duralast kit from AZ 10" GT 40p Edelbrock heads B 303 cam
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Dug around and found this. Looks like it's possible to use a 10" or 10.5" on the same flywheel.

I'll dig up my flywheel and check it out. IIRC, it's a Luk that I bought a few years ago from rockauto. Probably has multiple hole patterns.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 02:35 PM
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Do you have a flywheel? Is it new or used? They actually have a service limit on how much it can be cut. Each time itís cut it moves the clutch plate closer to the engine and away from the clutch fork and bearing. The fork ends up not having enough throw to fully disengage the clutch.

I bought a PRW volley wheel. SFI rated. A little over kill but it uses a bolt on weight so it can be used on any sbf. Itís also drilled for every pressure plate wether SAE or metric with dowels. This was convent since I was able to use the 5.0 clutch kit given to me.

I recently brought the flywheel to a machine shop to check balance. I was getting a little vibration I thought and wanted to check it so I could rule it out. The shop wanted to compare the PRW wheel to the flexplate that came on the motor. The owner said the PRW wheel was very good. It wasnít off at all but slightly differed to the flexplate by 10 grams. Thatís not to say the flexplate was exactly 50 oz but rather balanced to the motor. Anyway he was impressed at how close it was and said 10 grams wouldnít be enough to notice on a street motor. They did remove 10 grams from the weight to match the flexplate.

Iím in the process of putting a new exhaust in so itís not running just yet.

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