Car won't idle for more than 45 seconds - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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Car won't idle for more than 45 seconds

I was running a hot wire to the starter solenoid from my new carb w/ an electric choke and started to experience a new problem. The car would start and idle fine. When taking the car for a drive, The car would start to die sooner and sooner each trip, It was difficult to get it started then. After some Heart issues I let the car sit for 6 months. Now, I can't get it out of the garage because it will only idle for 45 seconds and then turns off. No stutter or stumble it just shuts off. The car fires right back up without even touching the throttle. My buddy and I tuned the carb last night and it purrs like a kitten for 45 seconds then dies. Is it possible I might have caused some problems trying to run a hot wire from the electric choke to the starter solenoid? I replaced the carb with one with a mechanical choke. I run MSD ignition (6AL) in my 289 66 fastback. Another thing we did was replace all new springs in the distributor at the time. I purchased a new ignition switch and a new MSD blaster 2 coil from summit. If that does not work what should I consider?
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 10:51 AM
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Almost sounds like the coil is energized when you start the car but when voltage falls, it dies. Do you have the small wires attached to the correct posts on the solenoid? A new solenoid is cheap. Try that. If it doesn't fix it, you still havea spare. I dunno. Attach a volt meter to various places of interest and watch the voltage. Maybe when running something heats up and loses contact, and cools enough when off to start again. This is why my old car stays low-tech.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 05:40 PM
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I would not connect the choke wire to the solenoid.

For the time being, disconnect the choke wire, and make sure the choke is fully open when you start the engine. That will eliminate choke problems.

Amateur restorer. Well, sometimes I have been paid for it. But not right now.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 07:54 PM
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My first instinct would be to blame the MSD.

1965 Mustang
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 08:27 PM
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Time to go back to basics... is it fuel or is it spark?

Grab your timing light and hook up the inductive lead to the coil wire. Run the light and wires out the back of the hood by the cowl and bungee/tape/zip-tie it to the passenger-side wiper arm. Tape the trigger down.

Hop in the driver's seat and fire it up and immediately bring the rpms to around 1,500.

When the engine dies, look at the timing light. If the light keeps flashing as the engine dies you have a fuel problem. If the light cuts out and then the engine dies you have a spark problem.

Once you determine the actual cause you can further diagnose the "system".

Bart

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 08:27 PM
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I am not sure why you have wired the hot wire of carb choke to the starter, the choke hot wire should go to a "hot" 12v + when in run.
Have a read through the attached installation instructions.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/mustang-...uctions/a/334/
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bd8134 View Post
I am not sure why you have wired the hot wire of carb choke to the starter, the choke hot wire should go to a "hot" 12v + when in run.
Have a read through the attached installation instructions.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/mustang-...uctions/a/334/
FWIW, since the voltage of a circuit reflects ALL the resistance in the circuit, adding a big resistor, which is what the heating element in the choke really is, you're significantly reducing the voltage available to the coil when connecting it in this manner.

If your car doesn't have an alternator warning lamp, you can attach the choke heater to the alternator stator (STA) terminal which generates (nice pun, eh) 1/2 of charging voltage only when the engine is turning over, or switch the choke on using a relay triggered by a "key on" circuit.

Bart

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Woodchuck View Post
If your car doesn't have an alternator warning lamp, you can attach the choke heater to the alternator stator (STA) terminal which generates (nice pun, eh) 1/2 of charging voltage only when the engine is turning over, or switch the choke on using a relay triggered by a "key on" circuit.
If your car DOES have an alternator warning lamp, what happens if you connect the choke to the alternator stator? This is how I have mine setup.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdub View Post
If your car DOES have an alternator warning lamp, what happens if you connect the choke to the alternator stator? This is how I have mine setup.
Well, that's a good question. As the stator is connected to a sensing circuit in the regulator it would seem dependent on whether said voltage, normally 1/2 of the AC wave, after resistance, would be sufficient to allow the regulator to function "normally". In other words, if it works right then fine, eh?

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 09:18 PM
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I don't think my system is charging. The light works but it never turns off. My battery voltage is pretty high (13s) so it's hard to say if I am getting anything by putting a meter across the battery but I am pretty sure I am not.

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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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When I wired the chock to the Stator terminal it seemed that the butterfly would never completely open. I bought a Manual choke carb.
I REPLACED THE COIL AND THE CAR IS RUNNING LIKE A CHAMP.
Thanks for all the advice especially the person who suggested I start off replacing small parts before I replace the expensive parts until I find the problem. I was going to replace the entire MSD 6AL box, distributor and coil. Luckily it was the cheapest part, the coil.
Now onto:
Brakes
Front suspension
Excessive Heat through the fire wall
Door locks that don't work
oil Leaks
transmission leak
Fan shroud
Thanks Meacum Auctions!

Thanks again
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by fbovi1 View Post
Now onto:

[...]

transmission leak

When you figure this out, let the world know. From everything I've seen, these transmissions were designed to leak like it's just as important as switching gears.

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 12:25 AM
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When you figure this out, let the world know. From everything I've seen, these transmissions were designed to leak like it's just as important as switching gears.
Between all my power steering and transmission leaks, it looks like a crime scene under my car.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 08:26 AM
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I don't have any leaks and my fluid looks and smells great but suddenly yesterday it shifts 1-2 and 2-3 like I robbed a bank and the cops just rammed me. I hafta get 3k rpm before it will shift and BAM. I suspect the modulator valve or vac line. I swear, if it isn't one thing...

'66 Tahoe Turquoise/ Aqua coupe
•289 / 4100 •C4 Auto •Disc Brakes
•Dual Exhaust •Quick Manual Steering
•Rally Pac •Console •Deluxe Belts
•LOTS of Rotunda accessories
...my first car

'66 Emberglo / Parchment deluxe coupe
•289 / 2100 •C4 Auto •Disc Brakes
•Dual Exhaust •Power Steering
•Dealer Air Conditioning •Console

'66 Nightmist / Blue & white deluxe coupe
•289 / 2100 •C4 Auto
•Factory Air Conditioning •Console
WAITING FOR RESTORATION

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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myfirstcar66 View Post
I have any leaks and my fluid looks and smells great but suddenly yesterday it shifts 1-2 and 2-3 like I robbed a bank and the cops just rammed me. I hafta get 3k rpm before it will shift and BAM. I suspect the modulator valve or vac line. I swear, if it isn't one thing...
check vacuum modulator and the line to it. Is your car idling really high too? Vacuum leak.


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