4R70W in 66 Mustang swap how to::Detailed distribution:: - Vintage Mustang Forums
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Old 03-29-2019, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation 4R70W in 66 Mustang swap how to::Detailed distribution::

Here it is people my 4r70w swap story. Please note that there will be spelling and grammar errors. There are few detailed swap story's out there so I figured id put mine up so maybe it can help others. I haven't taken many pictures of my build but will go into detail as best as I can. I did this swap with budget in mind. I am not rich so I only bought the bare minimum and kept it simple. Always remember that every car is different so what worked for me might not work for you. If you destroy your car don't blame me as im not responsible for it. I've listed all parts I used with location and parts numbers. Enjoy


:::Tear down:::
The first step take all the old crap out. I wont go into detail here as you get the drift. Make sure and save nuts and bolts as you can reuse.

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Transmission::
I started my build with a used 4r70w transmission out of a 2000 Mustang (keep in mind you must use a pre 2001 trans as the still have the speedometer splines)
I kept the stock torque converter as it will handle up to 450 or so horse power and it saves money. *Don't forget to make sure the converter is fully seated in the transmission and that it has some fluid in it!


Index plate from Cj pony parts# TSP12
Inspection plate from Cj pony parts# INSP10
Flex plate from Summit parts# PMA-PAX30211


You can reuse all original hardware minus the bolts that mount the trans to the engine they will need to be about 3/4 of and inch longer.
There are 2 tabs on the top of the trans that stick out and will hit your trans tunnel cut them off. There is also a couple tabs near the bell housing that could cause issues with exhaust just cut them off as well
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Transmission cooler lines::
I hate hard lines and did not use them here. You can use them if you want but here's what I did.

Hayden Transmission Cooler Hoses 126 from Summit parts# HDA-126

For the fitting connecting the hose to the radiator and trans I went with 5 inch long flared cooler to barbed fitting from the local parts store. I bent the 2 on the trans 90 degrees to point to the front end. I zip tied the hoses together and ran them along side of the oil pan to keep them away from the exhaust.
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Starter::
I went simple here. Make sure and reuse your old hardware. Also the instructions will explain how to hook up the modern starter using your existing system.

Ford mini starter from Summit parts# SUM-829302
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Cross member:
This was a beast as the "how to" I went off of used a cross member from California pony car. I bought this and things were not working. I modified the crossmember heavily with no good results.
I ended up spending more and going threw Ron Morris Performance

"Uni-Cross" Universal Transmission Cross member parts# 7125

It was well worth it as this cross member worked great it is a little involved on the install but it turned out great in the end.
*Hang on to your stock insulator and reuse it.
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Transmission Controller::
This was a no brainier on who to go with. Us shift Quick 4 Stand-Alone Transmission Control System. They are the best around and are fully customizable (if you want or run it on its basic modes) The install is not bad at all but will require a little time to run wires. I drilled a hole about 2 inches behind the shiftier and ran the wires threw and taped them to the floor up to the dash using aluminum tape. I mounted the controller in the glove box so I can access it easily. I ran the power wires and tps sensor wires threw the grommet near were the radio antenna loomed them and tied them to the top inside of the fender and ran them out in there respective areas.
Wiring everything is super easy and Us Shift has great instructions.
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Driveshaft
This is more of what you want to use. You can buy new or have a driveshaft cut to length and that's what I did. After reading a lot of information on the 4r70w I got into reading about driveshaft "Harmonics" basically its noise caused by the driveshaft spinning at a certain speed. You can read into it yourself more if you want. So basically the "Harmonics" of a steel shaft is low and aluminum shafts are much higher then you will probably ever drive. So I went with aluminum. I had the shaft cut to my length and balanced by a local shop. U-joints can differ with so many applications so Ill let you get what you need. I suggest getting a caliper so you can take precise measurements.

2009 Ford Crown Vic aluminum driveshaft from junk yard
Slip yoke from Summit part# SDH-2-3-14061X
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Exhaust
The is simple you can not use long tube headers (I know it sucks) I went basic but spent the extra time and flame coated the headers so they last longer.

Headman headers from Summit parts# HED-88400
VHT flame proof paint VHT-SP102
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Shiftier linkage
To almost go along with the cross member the shiftier linkage can be a bear. There are a few different things to do here. You can swap your floor shiftier to mounting modern and make it easy or be tricky and mount the trans up to your original shiftier... And that's what I did so ill explain that way.
The original floor shiftier when going threw gears has a forward pushing motion under the car well the 4r70w shift selector has a pull motion to go threw gears so there's a problem there. Now some people flip there stock selector arm around and it going so have to flip there range sensor. I don't like that idea so I got a new selector arm from Lokar they are very customizable. Now I know some people wont like this idea but if you use this selector arm in the 12 o'clock position you will have floor clearance issues. Now what I did what put a small bend on the arm and yes (cringe) finessed the floor in just a tad to clear. Next I took a piece of wire and bent it the shape that I needed to make the connection from shiftier to trans once it was right I bent the shift linkage rod and put rod ends on it connected it all up.
Now I know some of you wont like my route and may try another and that's fine. **One thing you want to do no matter what linkage you use is drop your trans pan and keep it off while making you adjustment to your linkage this is key because you and visible see the gear selector in gauging the gears and make damn sure your in the right gear in the car. I spent quiet a few hours to get this right. I suggest having all your wiring done and do the back and forth from under the car to inside turn the key to on (not start) and cycle the gears. The controller will tell you what gear your in. Make Sure That all gears in gauge correctly if the don't you will gear an error and says "bad PRND" just keep at it and you will get it. Once its all good to go throw a new filter on the trans and put the pan back on.
*Side note you may not know but when you pull your trans pan if you find a plastic plug in the pan don't worry its only the plug for the dipstick. In the factory they put a plug in the hole so junk would not get in there before the tube was installed. Just throw it away.


Shift selector arm from Summit part# LOK-ATA-1005
Shift linkage rod from Summit part# LOK-S-7061
Shift linkage rod ends from Summit part# LOK-S-68155
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*Don't forget to fill up the transmission with fluid!!
What I did to test things out once I was done was I put the rear axle on jack stands and started it up. I had put 3 quarts of tranny fluid in started the car and left it in park I let it run about 10 seconds and shut it off. I then added 3 more quarts of fluid and repeated. I did this till I had 10 quarts of fluid in then I stated it and let it run and get to temp I then cycled the gears a few times and checked and added fluid till it was full. I then ran threw the gears and let the wheels spin free to make sure all gears worked. I sure the car off and had myself a tasty well deserved adult beverage.
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In closing I hope that some of this helped you on your swap. Don't be afraid to do this. Though it may seem hard its not. Ive never done any transmission work or replacement and I did it. The big thing to remember it take your time and if you have questions or are stumped hit the net and look around or ask people on the forums. I had a lot of help from guys in the forums and I thank all of them to help me along. This project took about a month and a half to do. Hours wise id say around 80 to 100 but I was not keeping track same thing with cost. It ended up costing more then I wanted but that's always the case. I figure I have about $1600 into it all. Feel free to use or share any of what ive said and by all means ask questions. Take it easy
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