Vintage Mustang Forums banner

TCP rack and pinion, Front end alignment

5K views 25 replies 7 participants last post by  walrus 
#1 ·
Going to install Rack into 67 S code this weekend. My issue is once its all in and I have to get Camber adjusted by rotating the square piece with 3 holes in it, does that mean i have to get rack all lined up again also? you have to loosen mounting points and when you change adjustment for camber it seems to me you screw up the alignment of the rack? Anyone have one and had an algnment done ?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
#2 ·
I'm did a rough alignment on mine last week. I worked one side, then the other so the rack was never completely taken down so it should remain centered. I have adjustable strut rods so I didnt have to mess with the plates for caster adjustment.

When setting the toe, I found the center of travel and set the wheels accordingly.
 
#3 ·
I have the same rack in a 68 coupe. While it is a pain, of you just remove the two inner mounting points, that should not move the rack at all, as the two outer mounts are still in place. Adjust your camber, and when done, reinstall the inner mounting clamps.

You won’t have to realign the rack.
 
#5 ·
Thats what I wanted to hear. That makes sense. I doubt alignment guys want to do that though. I'm going to try to get camber back in same place as I did shelby drop last year and just had alignment done.

Thanks for all the responses.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
#6 ·
Started rack install, now I know why TCP instructions don't say much about removing steering box on S code Mustang. What a pain in the *** getting it out of there. Had to take Clutch rods out which in the end isn't a bad thing I guess. Just ordered new plastic bushings and the rubber bellows for firewall. Then I had to disconnect drivers side brake line as it was in the way so I now I have to bleed brakes. After a couple of hours I have it all out on ground
 
#7 ·
So started on install until I was going thru parts . I was tapping threads on clamps, found one clamp half was wrong. Then they give you 1inch long Allen head bolts and they should be 3/4 . They bottom out even if you chased threads. Did get flaming river tilt column in. Ill get rack in tomorrow with 3 clamps and hope i can get one sent to me. The one on right is correct


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
#9 ·
I've talked to TCP a couple times, now I won't know until Wednesday when they might ship my missing parts. I've continued on, got flaming river tit column in, tied to rack. Got power steering pump plumbed up. Had to order to straight 6 an fittings for connection at rack. Also used one straight 10an fitting. TCP didn't tighten 2 of their connections on rack. Of course you can get to 1 but not the other with rack in place. Had to drop rack which means unhooking steering column U joints. probably an easier install with a 289 but a 390 is right in the way. Put my clutch rods back in with new plastic bushings, also new return spring.

Debating Street or Track upper and lower control arms, strut rods.
 
#12 ·
Over 2 weeks! I'd have blown a gasket after the first week!
 
  • Like
Reactions: zray
#14 ·
They called this week and they are having them made. I guess they ran out and stock wasnt replenished. Doesn't sound right to me but... Supposed to overnight to me next week. I aint holding my breath :) Car isnt a daily driver.

In the mean time, Street or track UCA, LCA and Strut arms going in.


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
#16 ·
After roughy 40 days! Yea! Thats customer service? Glad you eventually got them!
 
#18 ·
I wish I had talked to Shaun to begin with, would have saved me a lot of hassle. He has been been great. I couldn't get over the spring perch hitting the cross brace when the suspension was unloaded, he told me to put the thing together and not worry about it. I did and it works. His customer service skills are top notch.
Finally got it all back together. A Couple things to straighten out but I backed it out of shop after 5 weeks on my lift. Then my buddy came over and we went for a ride in his 69, felt better after he launched it a few times:grin2:. He just got done dropping a 351 in to a 302 car. Got rid of the c4 and put in a T5. Sounds good and goes good except for a sloppy power steering front end.

Anyway now I need a front end alignment which I'm not looking forward to. I'm praying the Caster is on as that adjustment with a TCP rack sucks. Tomorrow I might take it for a short spin to see how it handles.
 
#21 ·
Got the right outer tie rod ends. Installed today. Set toe with tape measure, drove it down my road. I was shocked at how well it tracked on a ****ty Maine back road. The power rack is awesone, one finger control. Had it up to 70, straight down the road. Now I have to get wiring in new column done and then front end alignment. Cant wait

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
#22 ·
Got the wiring done on FR column. Their instructions are useless. Had to go to IDIDIT to get what the wiring in original plug is. Once I did that it was a matter of cutting, stripping and crimping. The GM plug they give you to match up to the column plug took a while to figure out also. Didn't realize you have to unfold a flap to get the pins in there.. Anyhow, turn signals work, flashers work, brake lights work. I have the stuff to install relay for horns. Thats for another day.
 
#23 ·
Took it to front end guy. Camber on passenger side 0, then my wirst nightmare :) +1/2 on drivers side. adjusting that with tcp rack sucks. The front end guy is 77 yrs old. Knows his stuff but didnt want to screw with it and I didnt blame him. Working in a front end pit not on a lift.
We got everything close and Drove home. Handled well. On lift now need to get lca out a bit with tcp adjustment washers. Rack is in the way.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
#24 ·
I’m missing something. Isn’t the only thing attached to the rack the tie rods? What does that have to do with camber adjustment? You can use either the eccentric blocks on the lower control arms, or adjust your adjustable upper control arms to get the camber that you want. Strut rods will get you caster. As someone else said setting the toe with the tire rods is always last.
 
#25 ·
the rack has a bracket where the LCA attaches to car. The original ford camber adjustment is removed for a square washer with 3 holes in it. Rotating that washer supposedly changes camber by half a degree approx . Its a pain. caster and toe are easy.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
#26 ·
Took the car back to alignment guy after changing the position of the TCP washer. Passenger side at 0 drivers side at + 0 its all the adjustment I can get and its a hair over. I could take spring and shock out and adjust upper arm but not going to do it for now. Caster at 3.5 and toe at 1/8. Handles well and rides surprising well.

My new to me Hurst shifter still needs tinkering as it comes out of reverse into neutral but is locked up and won't go into another gear. Have to move shifter arm forward and its fine. Burned my hand today on H pipe getting to go forward after backing it off alignment rack.

Trying to decide if I should downside carb from Holley 750 to Holley 650 or 600. It doesn't stumble but it is some rich. Bring tears to your eyes:grin2:
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top