Need Engine Gurus!!! - Page 4 - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #46 of 89 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 08:20 PM
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Curious, same side of the motor or same head?

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post #47 of 89 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 08:20 PM
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By the way @gikort, was the block align bored?

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Last edited by Turnall; 03-31-2019 at 08:34 PM.
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post #48 of 89 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 08:27 PM
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They're definitely blocked off and milled flat. I don't think my heads have the either. Think this is causing my heads to get too hot and causing the problem?


Perhaps there is still air trapped in the heads and they aren't getting any coolant?
Well, the reason they're there is to allow trapped steam to escape and condense back into water. If this can't happen steam pockets will prevent coolant from flowing properly.
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post #49 of 89 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 08:56 PM
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By the way @gikort, was the block align bored?

Allen
If it was, you need to know at what offset it was aligned...if any. Different timing sets are made specifically for this application.

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post #50 of 89 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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Just trying to help get to the bottom of this for you...I hope you don't mind.

Allen
No, I appreciate all the help I can get!
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post #51 of 89 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Looking closer at the last photo you posted, the lifter valley appears kind of dry... Safe to assume there aren't any oil restrictors installed?

Don't discount how much cooling the oil does, especially on the top end/valve springs.

No oil restrictors installed. That picture was taken after I cleaned all the oil and water out of the lifter valley after removing the head.
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post #52 of 89 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 09:14 PM
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Have you tried starting it again once it dies? How does it turn over? Easy? Or labored? Could the click you're hearing be your headers cooling and contracting? I get all kinds of pings after shutting down do to contraction. If your engine turns over well after dying, have you verified spark after the incident occurs? The electronic module could be defective and getting heat soaked and shutting down on you.
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post #53 of 89 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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Curious, same side of the motor or same head?

Are you referring to the previous stuck valve and me hearing a "valve snap shut" after shutdown? Yes, same side of the block (as far as I could tell with the sound), but not sure on the heads as they were rebuilt and reinstalled. 50/50 shot haha.
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post #54 of 89 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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By the way @gikort, was the block align bored?

Allen

It was align honed with the ARP studs.
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post #55 of 89 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 10:16 PM
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Are you referring to the previous stuck valve and me hearing a "valve snap shut" after shutdown? Yes, same side of the block (as far as I could tell with the sound), but not sure on the heads as they were rebuilt and reinstalled. 50/50 shot haha.


That’s something to keep in the back of your mind. Being on the same side it could be coincidence or possibly something in common. Who knows, maybe you have something going on with the block on that side of the block or something goingon with that head? It keeps you on your toes when troubleshooting you never know where it can lead.
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post #56 of 89 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 10:19 PM
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Maybe the springs on the valves are too weak?

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post #57 of 89 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 10:24 PM
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Here's a write up I did on steam holes that may help you since it sounds like your block doesn't have these. They aren't actually "steam holes" so much as bleed off holes to help trapped air leave the heads as the motor fills from bottom up. https://www.vintage-mustang.com/#/topics/1147136?page=1
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post #58 of 89 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Maybe the springs on the valves are too weak?

Allen

Yeah, I was thinking that just adding the inner springs might solve the problem, but either way, they shouldn't be sticking...
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post #59 of 89 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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Have you tried starting it again once it dies? How does it turn over? Easy? Or labored? Could the click you're hearing be your headers cooling and contracting? I get all kinds of pings after shutting down do to contraction. If your engine turns over well after dying, have you verified spark after the incident occurs? The electronic module could be defective and getting heat soaked and shutting down on you.

I turned it over by hand last night, everything looked good. No weird sounds or difficulties in spinning it. It's definitely heat related. Could be ignition, but I think it's something mechanical as the very first time it happened I gave it more throttle while it was bogging and it reacted.


The sound I heard could have very well been a header or something but It sure sounded like a valve snapping shut to me.


I am going to talk to the machine shop today and see if they have any ideas, but I'm wondering if it could be something as simple as air bubbles in the heads that are keeping them from cooling. I'm going to get a coolant purge tool and try it again.
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post #60 of 89 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 10:03 PM
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Did you ever mention what pistons you were running? Forged? hypereutectic? For example, if you have forged pistons but your machine shop provided cylinder wall clearance spec'd for hyper's, you could have the pistons expanding and starting to bind on the walls. Then when it cools they are free again. Hypers can run really tight, like .0015-.002 clearance. Forged pistons can range from .0025-.0065 depending on application and piston material. See page 5 of the uem catalog which discusses alloys and general cylinder wall clearances on application. You'll see that it ranges widely. https://uempistons.com/file/7-Icon+Catalog.pdf The same could be said for the top-ring gap. Many hyper pistons require a greater top ring gap. The summit brand hyper pistons I ran in mine wanted the same gap factor as the keith black ones Which you can find here #2---- Clearance Requirements for Hypereutectic Pistons. With it bogging upon getting hot, it sorta sounds like things are expanding and binding within the engine. Next time you run it and you shut it off due to bog, immediately try turning it over by hand and see how stiff it is. Has your temp gauge shown it to get hot?
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